Sweet, Cold Gold- Niagara’s Icewine Festival

There’s a magical sort of alchemy to taking frozen grapes and turning them into Icewine. Wine makers and sommeliers explain that it’s not alchemy, that ice wine is the byproduct of having good grapes to work with, the right climate and a seasoned, wine-maker. I however, suspect there’s something much more to creating this nectar fit for the gods.

Inside the Gala with an Ice Sign

For two weeks in January, the Niagara region plays host to the highly anticipated Icewine Festival every year. Last year, I made the rounds to various vineyards using the festival’s “Discovery Pass” and braved an extreme freeze to sample numerous wines paired with sweet and savoury nibbles. This year, I switched the thermal wear for formal wear and attended the Xerox Icewine Gala at the Fallsview Casino and Resort in Niagara Falls.

Sparkling chandeliers and ice sculptures adorned the ballroom where wines from over twenty-five of Ontario’s wineries were on offer. Hernder Estates, Château des Charmes, Tawse Winery, Reif Estate Winery and Fielding Estate Winery were amongst the numerous purveyors offering sips of everything from sparkling to premium wines.

Reif Icewine Flight with local cheeses

I choose some bubbly from Château des Charmes and a plate of the evening’s standout dish- a rich risotto made with red wine and gorgonzola, topped with candied pecans. I grab a perch at a cocktail table and meet Joe and Beth, two Bostonians who for the past nine years, drive nine hours to get to the Icewine Festival! I had to know- why are they such festival stalwarts? Joe responds, “Because we love icewine! You don’t get anything like this where we’re from so we make sure to get our fill while we’re here.”

Candied apple desserts at the Gala

Fluke? Possibly until I meet Dr. Michael from Miami, Florida who, like my new pals from Boston, is an Icewine festival devotee. “The doctors at the hospital know not to mess with my Icewine Festival week. This week in January is MINE!” says Dr. Michael with a smile. Indeed- who would want to keep a man from his vino?

The next day, we visit Ravine, Reif, and Stratus vineyards. The food pairings at Ravine were outstanding! The owners’ son Paul, just back from a stage in Germany, made the best pork rillettes I’ve ever had, hands down. Wine consultant Peter Gamble explained the unique terroir of St. David’s bench and we sampled the fruits of the family’s labour of love. German-born Klaus Reif regaled us with four varieties of icewine- from a 2008 Riesling to a 2008 Cabernet Franc. But it’s the 2007 Vidal Icewine that most impresses my palate with lush tropical fruit off the top and a balanced acidity at the end that’s perfectly crisp.

Ravine Winter Vineyard in St. David's Bench

We end the day at the Twenty Valley Winter Winefest where open fires, more wine and food are on offer from this particular corner of the region. Sated and tired, I meander back to the car with words like “brix” (sugar present in wine) swirling in my mind. I know this is the science part of icewine making, but the smooth flavour of the Stratus Riesling icewine lingers, so I know it’s alchemy at work here. Maybe even some magic…

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia

Manchego - a new cheese plate favourite

Last week when a friend put out a request over Facebook for a cheese suggestion to bring to a wine and cheese party, I quickly chimed and suggested Manchego. Turns out, I wasn’t the only one to suggest it, in fact, two other people made the same recommendation.

I have to say I was pleased to see the surgence in popularity for this Spanish cheese that I discovered during a visit to one of my favourite cheese places in Toronto. Maybe it’s the growing popularity of tapas in the city, where Manchego is served up with a ‘dulce de membrillo’ (a quince paste, another Spanish delicacy), that has made this cheese climb the culinary social ladder.

Regardless, it’s one you’ll want to get familiar with, and not just so that when it makes an appearance on a cheese plate you can wow your friends with your knowledge of international dairy products. It is a tasty nutty flavoured hard, ripened cheese that makes a tasty addition to a Spanish inspired antipasto plate-- try pairing it with some Serrano ham and almonds-- or is just great on its own, with a light drizzle of honey, or a side of fruit.

True Manchego is only made in ‘La Mancha’ region of Spain, from the milk of sheep pastured on the plateau that sits 600 metres above sea level. Like many European products, it is a protected appelation, meaning that only cheese created in that specific region, made in the same traditional fashion can be called Manchego. It is distinctive in that the outside rind is quite dark, almost black, and bears a crisscross pattern, as defined by the grass molds that are used to hold the cheese in the ripening process. The history of this cheese is rich, and is recorded, even in popular culture as early as the early 1600s. Dubbed the cheese of Don Quixote, the cheese is mentioned by name in the classic Spanish novel by Miguel Cervantes Don Quixote de la Mancha. The area has demarquated a “Don Quixote Trail” that traces the travel of this knight in the novel, along the way, you’ll see a tribute to some of the areas other agricultural contributions in the form of ancient windmills—a nod to the cereal that is grown in this grassy land.

Now, if you’re fortunate enough to be in Spain, you’ll want to try Manchego the way the locals like it, with Miel de la Alcarria, another protected designation but this time for honey made from bees that feed on the flowers of rosemary or lavender, or a combination of both. Top it all off with a glass of Riojas wine, and well, you’ve got a reason to hop on the next flight to Madrid. If you go, don’t forget to bring me back some honey, and tuck one of the area's most sought after spices—safron—in your luggage for the journey home.

Photos from top to bottom: Manchego cheese, with its trademark crisscross pattern; windmills in the La Mancha region of Spain.

Perso in Italia (Lost in Italy)

The joy of visiting wineries in Italy is somewhat tempered by the difficulty. The problem is finding them. Last blog, I gushed over the wonderful wines of Fattoria di Felsina. Now let me tell you what I had to go through to get to them and offer a little advice.

The first trick is renting a car. I travel a great deal so I have one of those credit cards that insures you against traffic accidents and a nuclear holocaust. Check your own coverage and if you are not sure get insurance when you are in Italy. I have vivid memories of drivers slowing down for green lights in Napoli because others were racing straight through the reds. Tuscany is not so bad, but I had my wits about me. They do not suffer fools or tourists gladly. I was driving a ‘stick’ and this sharpened my senses, but if there was space it was filled and if there was a speed limit it was broken, so I woke up!

I rented in Livorno and even with an optional G.P.S., I was lost before I left the city. Here’s an example. I got close Sienna. As soon as I was within striking distance I came to a four-way intersection. The three arrows going in opposite directions all said ’Sienna’. There is a one way street on the outskirts of Volterra that I think they have now renamed after me, because I visited so often.

Get directions and a map to any estate you are visiting and keep their phone number. I finally made it to Castelnuovo Berardenga, but took another 20 minutes and three wrong turns to find the estate. Like most Italian estates worth visiting, there is no signage to tell you where it is. Give yourself 20% more time than you could possibly need.

Always have the phone number in case you get hopelessly lost. Firstly they may be able to give you the practical directions you need. Secondly, and this is vital, if you are not able to make it you have to tell them. There is a reason I had to make an appointment. A team member has given up their day off to meet me. Not calling is disgracefully rude and it can ruin someone’s day. You will not be welcomed back if you do this.

Photos: Out and about in Fattoria di Felsina

Dobar Tek- Croatian for Bon Appétit!

I speak Croatian like a one year old. Despite my best efforts, my Romance Language hard-wired brain (native tongue is Spanish), just doesn’t want to jive with my husband’s Slavic lingo. I can say bread, cheese, meat and cake with the best of them in Croatian - interspersed with a please and a thank you. That held me in good stead as we travelled through Croatia recently (he’s a fluent speaker so I didn’t have to say too much) - a beautiful country that in parts looks the spitting image of Italy’s Tuscany at a fraction of the price. And yes, the food and wine are as good!

There is a major food distinction to be made in Croatia. Inland cuisine features a “Continental” style repertoire with hearty meat, potato and bean dishes for example. On the coast, dishes lighten up and feature seafood, olive oil and other Mediterranean delights. Within short proximity of each other, we were happily able to sample both.

We started in inland Istria- an area of Croatia that used to belong to Italy. Signage in this part of the country is both in Croatian and Italian with towns like Umag are also known as Umago. And coincidentally, inland Istria is also home to the Croatian truffle. One fine day, Giancarlo Zigante’s dog Diana found the Guinness World Record-holding truffle weighing in at a lofty 1,310 kg! That was November 1999 near the sleepy town of Livade- which now boasts of one of the finest restaurants in the area belonging to Zigante whose specialty is of course (drum roll please) the truffle! Weighed before being delicately shaved over fish, soups and roasted meats- this earthy, sensual delight is in no short supply here and is as good as the Piedmontese varieties. In fact, a lot of truffle I saw on a recent trip to Italy was from Croatia, just packaged in Italy! Dear reader, I’m effusive, but not prone to too much exaggeration. I was as surprised as you are.

The day after celebrating our wedding anniversary at Zigante’s and dining like royalty (truffle even in our dessert!), we drove to the home town of one of the grande dames of Istrian cuisine, Lidia Bastianich (restaurateur, chef, cookbook author and TV show host). The sea-side city of Pula greeted us with an afternoon sun that illuminated the ancient amphitheatre with every shade of gold. Spectacular columns and Roman statues proudly flanked what was once a public gathering space; a crisp blue sky playing background to its majesty.

We walked to the waterside promenade- The Riva- where locals suggested we try just caught fish and a local specialty- blitva. Boiled potatoes, wilted swiss chard, caramelized garlic gently bathed in a light olive oil makes the most perfect partner to a piece of freshly grilled brancin (or sea perch) with a glass of fabulous local Malvasia wine. It was all I could do to muster a sincere “Puno hvala” (thank you very much) to our suntanned server who smiled at my kid-like attempt to speak his language. In mid-stride, he stopped, turned around and in stilted English replied “You are very welcome! Come back and visit us again.” You can count on it!

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia, from top to bottom: Zigante Trgovina, where tourists and locals alike fine truffle cream, truffle oil, olive oil, Malvasia wine; Our server slices the whisper thin truffles onto our dish. The REAL deal!

There's always time for tapas

My interests when travelling are pretty broad – I can wander through archaeological sites and ancient cities, hike through rainforests and canoe down jungle rivers. I can lose myself in museums and orchid gardens.

But wherever you find me and whatever I’m doing, food is never far from my mind – trying local restaurants and street food stalls, exploring the local markets and grocery stores, taking cooking classes to learn about traditional foods, visting local food festivals – no matter how big or small. If there’s a food angle you’ll find me there.

So last year when I finally made plans to spend a couple of days in Sevilla I planned to go tapas hopping. My friends warn that it’s Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) and I won’t find a hotel. Armed with a list of recommendations I begin the long process of finding of a room. My first call to my first choice yields a room. I guess Las Casas de la Juderia (The Houses of the Jews) isn’t a big seller during Semana Santa.

We arrive in late afternoon, walk around the neighbourhood planning how to see everything we want to see in the next two days. We decide to hit one tapas bar and make it an early night. We start with sangria and then order small plates of boquerones, calamares, anchovies, tortilla, chorizo, olives and almonds.

I know about the religious processions held during Semana Santa and certainly intend to see one while in Sevilla. Turns out every church has its own procession and there’s a schedule published. As we walk towards the church, the streets are lined with people and every balcony is filled with people. As the procession rounds the corner we’re amazed to see thousands of participants in outfits similar to, but not to be mistaken for those worn by Ku Klux Klan members. (We’d been told about them, but it’s hard to imagine until you’re there).

Each procession has two ‘floats’ (one with Jesus and the Cross, the other the Madonna) that are carried throughout the neighbourhood by 20 or more people. It’s a huge honour to carry the float but also a huge responsibility. In one place they had to all crouch down to be able to get under an overhead pass. And, although there are police everywhere keeping the crowds back, people are always breaking through and closing in on the floats.

It was just an amazing experience and everyone should try to visit during Semana Santa. And, don’t worry, I know where you can get a room.

The Heart of Tuscany

There is something in the air of Tuscany. I know. I am trying to avoid all those trite clichés that you read everywhere and that inspired my Dad to get Tuscan-style tiles in his living-room. To this day, I have no idea what is Tuscan about them, other than the sales pitch. Nonetheless, the place itself is magical. Some love the rolling hills, some the cuisine and some the idyllic towns that dot the landscape.

You’ll never guess what I love.
I love the wine.

The Brunellos of Montalicino and the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano have stolen all the recent fame, but my heart still belongs to Chianti and its heart, Chianti Classico. The Classico region is in the centre of Chianti and holds the greatest of its vineyards to its bosom.
Forget about the straw covered fiasco bottles.
Producers were allowed to use a little of the Canaiolo Nero grape and even the white grapes Trebbiano and Malvasia, but now the better producers are focusing entirely on the noble Sangiovese which also makes Brunello.

Fattoria di Felsina straddles the southern border of Classico where it meets Chianti Colli Senesi (one of the seven other sub-zones within Chianti). It is a hell of a drive from Livorno, but I will tell you about that next week. For me this is the standard for all things Tuscan. This beautiful estate is dotted with the requisite crumbling monastic buildings. It is large enough to incorporate vast olive groves that produce the finest olive oils I have ever tasted. They breed their own animals and grow wheat to make bread. They have game for hunting and a vegetable garden.

All of this caught my attention, but it was the 2007 Chianti Classico that won my heart. At a simple lunch, made from the estate’s produce, I shared a bottle of this wonderful wine. It was ready to drink and had every aroma and flavour I could want. Sangiovese can be as sensual and ethereal as a fine Pinot Noir, while sharing that grape’s earthiness. At the same time it is quintessentially Italian with bright acidity that reminds you of biting into a ripe tomato.

Sangiovese brings Tuscany to your home better than any tile can. Still, it is a very nice living room, Dad.

Fattoria di Fèlsina,
Via del Chianti 101
53019 - Castelnuovo Berardegna, Siena
Tel + 39 0577 355117
Fax + 39 0577 355651
Mail: info@felsina.it

Portugal? Where do I get in line?

If you’ve ever been to a Portuguese wedding, you know that these are people who love to eat. After you sit through a multi-course meal which generally includes, a salad, Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale and Potato Soup), a fish course, a meat course and dessert, you get to dance the night away… but wait, it’s not done there, because at midnight, if you’ve made enough room while dancing there’s more food – a seafood buffet, sometimes with more dessert!

Yes, the Portuguese like their seafood, and who could blame them? It’s a way of life for many, where fishing has been in their blood, further back than they can trace their family tree. In the area of Nazaré, you’ll find the sand beaches studded with fisherman’s wives who are mending nets or drying fish. Stop by a seaside eatery, and you’ll be treated to some of the freshest fish you’ve ever tasted as they serve up the catch of the day from the grill.

If you travel to the small town of Obidos, along the Silver Coast, where fortified castle walls hint at a Medieval past, you’ll find the Obidos lagoon rich in a variety of mollusks, often used in a hearty stew known as Caldeirada, similar to the French Bouillabaise. What could be a more satisfying meal after a day of strolling through the cobblestone streets, admiring the ancient white washed buildings of this heritage city?

Caldeirada is one of those dishes that can be as varied as the different regions of the country. Depending on where you are in Portugual, the dish could be made of fish, a combination of fish and shellfish, or fish and chouriço (a Portuguese-style sausage). Some areas spice it up with the popular Piri-Piri sauce (a hot pepper blend), and others are more particular to saffron. No matter how the tasty stew is made, don’t forget to use that crusty bread it’s served with to sop up the juices. That’s the best part of your meal!


Now of course, you can’t go to Portugal without first arriving in Lisbon, and well, that’s where one of my favourite Portuguese treats originated, the Pasteis de Nata (custard tarts). These little golden wonders, have a pastry so flaky, they give puff pastry a run for their money, and a centre so decadent, it’s almost like creme brulée in an edible cup. In Lisbon, the history of these pastries is celebrated. A monastery Mosteiro dos Jerónimos set up shop to sell these pastries in 1837 to raise money, and the recipe was heavily guarded. The pastries from the monastery are known as Pasteis de Belem. Today, people still line up to get them hot out of the even, sprinkled with a little cinnamon sugar. Everywhere else, they are known as Pasteis de Nata. These little guys are so popular, that even here in Toronto, all Portuguese and some mainstream bakeries alike carry them. So if you want a sweet little taste of Portugal, you never have to wander too far. Although, if I was in Lisbon, I’d probably be first in line to get a fresh baked batch from the Monastery.