Showing posts with label Chianti. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chianti. Show all posts

Friday, April 23, 2010

Getting Giddy over Tuscan Wines

For most people, a trip to Tuscany takes in the glory of Florence, the stature of Pisa and (maybe) the unique towers of San Gimignano. While all of these sites capture the imagination and offer an insight into both Italian history and culture, none of them fully encompass the essence of Tuscany. For this you must venture outside the city wall into the fame rolling hills of the countryside. You need to get a little dirt under your fingernails.

For me,Tuscany is a very sensual place, and not in a creepy way. The sun shines differently here and brings everything into sharper focus. The air is perfumed with the herbs growing wild in the hills around you. The sounds of animals are everywhere and birds welcome the morning with their song. OK. I know that was overkill. There is some truth to it though.

There is a special texture to the grape vines and olive groves that seem to line every road and adorn every hillside.

These two also supply the flavour of Tuscany. There is no greater gluttonous joy than simple bread with fine olive oil drizzled atop and a Brunello from Montalcino or a Chianti with which to wash it down. The bright acidity found in the Sangiovese grape makes it the perfect match for the richness of fine olive oil. It is also a wonderful accompaniment to the cured meats and risottos that fill local plates and bellies. It is amazing that in such a highly populated country, there is so much open countryside. Now, granted, you might have to watch your step if it is hunting season, but the fact remains that there is more than enough space and fresh air to go around.

I don't know whether it is the Italian sense of humour or the shear joy of being there, but I have one other sense of Tuscany that I would like to share. I don't remember laughing so much for a long time. I seem to laugh for no reason. There are two possible reasons. The first is that I love the Tuscan countryside. The second is that I am barking mad. I will leave you to be the judge next time you are there."

Friday, January 15, 2010

The Heart of Tuscany

There is something in the air of Tuscany. I know. I am trying to avoid all those trite clichés that you read everywhere and that inspired my Dad to get Tuscan-style tiles in his living-room. To this day, I have no idea what is Tuscan about them, other than the sales pitch. Nonetheless, the place itself is magical. Some love the rolling hills, some the cuisine and some the idyllic towns that dot the landscape.

You’ll never guess what I love.
I love the wine.

The Brunellos of Montalicino and the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano have stolen all the recent fame, but my heart still belongs to Chianti and its heart, Chianti Classico. The Classico region is in the centre of Chianti and holds the greatest of its vineyards to its bosom.
Forget about the straw covered fiasco bottles.
Producers were allowed to use a little of the Canaiolo Nero grape and even the white grapes Trebbiano and Malvasia, but now the better producers are focusing entirely on the noble Sangiovese which also makes Brunello.

Fattoria di Felsina straddles the southern border of Classico where it meets Chianti Colli Senesi (one of the seven other sub-zones within Chianti). It is a hell of a drive from Livorno, but I will tell you about that next week. For me this is the standard for all things Tuscan. This beautiful estate is dotted with the requisite crumbling monastic buildings. It is large enough to incorporate vast olive groves that produce the finest olive oils I have ever tasted. They breed their own animals and grow wheat to make bread. They have game for hunting and a vegetable garden.

All of this caught my attention, but it was the 2007 Chianti Classico that won my heart. At a simple lunch, made from the estate’s produce, I shared a bottle of this wonderful wine. It was ready to drink and had every aroma and flavour I could want. Sangiovese can be as sensual and ethereal as a fine Pinot Noir, while sharing that grape’s earthiness. At the same time it is quintessentially Italian with bright acidity that reminds you of biting into a ripe tomato.

Sangiovese brings Tuscany to your home better than any tile can. Still, it is a very nice living room, Dad.

Fattoria di Fèlsina,
Via del Chianti 101
53019 - Castelnuovo Berardegna, Siena
Tel + 39 0577 355117
Fax + 39 0577 355651
Mail: info@felsina.it
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