Portugal? Where do I get in line?

If you’ve ever been to a Portuguese wedding, you know that these are people who love to eat. After you sit through a multi-course meal which generally includes, a salad, Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale and Potato Soup), a fish course, a meat course and dessert, you get to dance the night away… but wait, it’s not done there, because at midnight, if you’ve made enough room while dancing there’s more food – a seafood buffet, sometimes with more dessert!

Yes, the Portuguese like their seafood, and who could blame them? It’s a way of life for many, where fishing has been in their blood, further back than they can trace their family tree. In the area of Nazaré, you’ll find the sand beaches studded with fisherman’s wives who are mending nets or drying fish. Stop by a seaside eatery, and you’ll be treated to some of the freshest fish you’ve ever tasted as they serve up the catch of the day from the grill.

If you travel to the small town of Obidos, along the Silver Coast, where fortified castle walls hint at a Medieval past, you’ll find the Obidos lagoon rich in a variety of mollusks, often used in a hearty stew known as Caldeirada, similar to the French Bouillabaise. What could be a more satisfying meal after a day of strolling through the cobblestone streets, admiring the ancient white washed buildings of this heritage city?

Caldeirada is one of those dishes that can be as varied as the different regions of the country. Depending on where you are in Portugual, the dish could be made of fish, a combination of fish and shellfish, or fish and chouriço (a Portuguese-style sausage). Some areas spice it up with the popular Piri-Piri sauce (a hot pepper blend), and others are more particular to saffron. No matter how the tasty stew is made, don’t forget to use that crusty bread it’s served with to sop up the juices. That’s the best part of your meal!


Now of course, you can’t go to Portugal without first arriving in Lisbon, and well, that’s where one of my favourite Portuguese treats originated, the Pasteis de Nata (custard tarts). These little golden wonders, have a pastry so flaky, they give puff pastry a run for their money, and a centre so decadent, it’s almost like creme brulée in an edible cup. In Lisbon, the history of these pastries is celebrated. A monastery Mosteiro dos Jerónimos set up shop to sell these pastries in 1837 to raise money, and the recipe was heavily guarded. The pastries from the monastery are known as Pasteis de Belem. Today, people still line up to get them hot out of the even, sprinkled with a little cinnamon sugar. Everywhere else, they are known as Pasteis de Nata. These little guys are so popular, that even here in Toronto, all Portuguese and some mainstream bakeries alike carry them. So if you want a sweet little taste of Portugal, you never have to wander too far. Although, if I was in Lisbon, I’d probably be first in line to get a fresh baked batch from the Monastery.