Perso in Italia (Lost in Italy)

The joy of visiting wineries in Italy is somewhat tempered by the difficulty. The problem is finding them. Last blog, I gushed over the wonderful wines of Fattoria di Felsina. Now let me tell you what I had to go through to get to them and offer a little advice.

The first trick is renting a car. I travel a great deal so I have one of those credit cards that insures you against traffic accidents and a nuclear holocaust. Check your own coverage and if you are not sure get insurance when you are in Italy. I have vivid memories of drivers slowing down for green lights in Napoli because others were racing straight through the reds. Tuscany is not so bad, but I had my wits about me. They do not suffer fools or tourists gladly. I was driving a ‘stick’ and this sharpened my senses, but if there was space it was filled and if there was a speed limit it was broken, so I woke up!

I rented in Livorno and even with an optional G.P.S., I was lost before I left the city. Here’s an example. I got close Sienna. As soon as I was within striking distance I came to a four-way intersection. The three arrows going in opposite directions all said ’Sienna’. There is a one way street on the outskirts of Volterra that I think they have now renamed after me, because I visited so often.

Get directions and a map to any estate you are visiting and keep their phone number. I finally made it to Castelnuovo Berardenga, but took another 20 minutes and three wrong turns to find the estate. Like most Italian estates worth visiting, there is no signage to tell you where it is. Give yourself 20% more time than you could possibly need.

Always have the phone number in case you get hopelessly lost. Firstly they may be able to give you the practical directions you need. Secondly, and this is vital, if you are not able to make it you have to tell them. There is a reason I had to make an appointment. A team member has given up their day off to meet me. Not calling is disgracefully rude and it can ruin someone’s day. You will not be welcomed back if you do this.

Photos: Out and about in Fattoria di Felsina