Sweet Temptations in Paris

Paris. Just the name of the city itself evokes images of a fog-enveloped walk along the Seine or of lovers embracing near the Eiffel Tower. In most every traveler’s mind, “The City of Lights” is synonymous with architecture, haute couture and haute cuisine. And while you can easily spend your retirement savings on a seared-in-the-brain gustatory experience in the city that celebrates food like few others, there are a few more reachable culinary heights that mere mortals lacking the foie-gras-rich expense account can attain. Warning: some of them can even come with a side of near-religious inducing euphoria- especially if you’ve got a sweet tooth like me!
One of my personal favourites is a leisurely afternoon tea, replete with a rainbow palette of macarons at the institution of macarons, Ladurée Tea Salon. Far from the chewy, coconut clusters we call “macaroons” here in North America, French macarons are delicate meringue and almond flour “cookies” filled with a decadent ganache in the chewy centre. There’s a macaron to please most any palate ranging from pistachio, blackcurrant-violet, coffee, raspberry, rose petal, hazelnut praline, bitter chocolate and red fruits. I was smitten by the coffee and the bitter chocolate, but one bite of the salted butter caramel and I was in awe.
While macarons are heady stuff, the big shot pastry of Paris in my estimation is the Religieuse (aka, nun in French- named after a nun’s habit). For this, I’d follow my nose to any good pastry shop and source two cupola-like puff pastry domes filled with a flavoured crème patissière that can vary in flavour from orange blossom, caramel or rose to tomato- it is after all a fruit. The top dome (or head) is affixed with a good buttercream or Chantilly cream. Perfectly light pastry that’s delicately iced and studded with fresh strawberries (in my dessert’s case) in the middle- it was the most seductive of desserts.
My pet theory, as proven by this experience and my Caelum rendezvous as noted in my Barcelona post is the following: nuns make sweet, decadent, and even downright sexy temptations much like a painter who has never been caressed might produce the most erotic nude. I don’t mean any disrespect, but if you’ve ever sampled the nuns of Italy’s Medici Rose Elixir then you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. I’m not sure if the Religieueses I’ve sampled were developed by nuns- but their namesake affiliation alone makes me raise an eyebrow and smile parce que c’est merveilleuse any way you slice it.

Buffalo, NY- Beyond the Chicken Wing

I know what you’re going to say; that Buffalo is a chicken-wing, sports-lovin’ town with great shopping and not much else, right? But if that’s all you know about “The City of Good Neighbors” as it’s called (with the appropriate American spelling), then you’d be missing more than half of the delectable picture.

On a recent reconnaissance trip to Buffalo, I had the good fortune of meeting passionate food folks who want to change Buffalo’s culinary image from its oft-touted fast-food-for-sports-fans town to something a little more decidedly delicious. And you know what? They’re doing it – in spades!
Dinner with Buffalo food doyenne Christa Glennie-Seychew at Sample Restaurant was a night to remember. Plate after small plate of what Chef Adam Goetz calls “a cocktail party at your table” arrived, featuring playful takes on Buffalo standards like the beef on weck for instance. There’s tons of attention to detail here from the former Waldorf Astoria chef, who takes a bar chef approach to cocktails and insists on just about everything being made from scratch.

Then there’s the former local rocker turned butcher and his lovely wife Beth at Spar European Sausage and Meats, where even the souvenir T-Shirts can be “smoked” and vacuum packed for that extra pork-scented effect. All fun aside, Spar’s landjaeger was a hit, and as a nod to the large Polish community in the city, there’s plenty of double smoked Polish sausage with or without marjoram, as well as Ukrainian Kabanossy to choose from. The gang at Spar takes their meats seriously – and that kind of quality in a town that loves sausages, hand cut chops and steaks is a good thing!

One blustery morning at the Bidwell Farmer’s Market, located in the picturesque Elmwood Neighbourhood, netted an invaluable find: White Cow Dairy’s yoghurt and fermented dairy drinks. My favourite? Maple yoghurt that tastes subtly of pure, reduced tree-tapped sap, without unpronounceable words on the ingredients list and that isn’t overly sweet…now THAT’s sweet!

If you’re an architecture buff, don’t miss the many fine remaining examples of self-professed “greatest architect that ever lived,” Frank Lloyd Wright. At the turn of the century, Buffalo was flush with industry and commerce. While many of the moneyed class were building Victorian mansions, others like Darwin D. Martin commissioned the timeless Prairie style homes by Wright that were considered beyond contemporary back then. The Darwin Martin home is a must-visit, and if you can get the longer tour that takes you upstairs, do.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t suggest a leisurely stop to the Albright-Knox Art Gallery – considered a “can’t miss” by the NY Times. Gaugin, Picasso, Warhol, Pollock and Jasper Johns pieces hang in a beautiful space that encourages meandering. Drop by MUSE Café for lunch as you look out to the statue garden in the patio and take in the Greek Revival building’s magnificence. I hate to be an “I-told-you-so”, but nary a chicken wing in sight – and the weekend was finger licking good!

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia, from top to bottom: Beef on Weck at Sample Restaurant; The sign that greets you upon arriving at Spar's; Albright-Knox Art Gallery.

Bologna à la Biba

I remember watching Biba Caggiano on TV in rapt fascination. There she was, whipping up regional, Italian dishes like gnocchi before anyone could even say the word, or biscotti when the twice-baked cookies were then unheard of here in Canada. I loved her lilting voice, her ease in the kitchen and how drool-inducing her dishes always looked. As a teen watching this from a living room in Hamilton, Ontario, I never in a thousand years imagined I’d one day be able to call the much-lauded chef up and say, “So, when I’m in Bologna, where should I go eat?”

One of the Grande Dames of Italian cookery residing in the United States today (she still helms the iconic Biba Restaurant in Sacramento, CA), Biba Caggiano is one of the best Italian exports North America ever received. She appeared as one of our profile subjects on the bio doc series, “At the Table With…” which is why I was lucky enough to get to know the woman behind the culinary prowess.

We started emailing a month or so before my Italian vacation began. Instead of emailing a few tips and favourite haunts, Biba, in her imitable, generous style, sent me a copy of her book instead. “Biba’s Italy- Favourite Recipes from Splendid Cities” is a treasure-trove of tried and true recipes and hidden gems; a must-have for anyone travelling to the big boot.

She not only sent the book, she hand wrote notes in the page margins and used her “x” rating system to denote good (x), very good (xx) and must go! (xxx). Bologna, in Emilia Romagna was where Biba was born and raised. She visits frequently with her husband Vincent, and her palate is in my estimation, not to be questioned. When Biba says a restaurant is xxx, I don’t argue.

My husband and I wandered the city streets until we came upon a xxx! location called “Papa Rè” that specializes in the region’s hearty dishes. Situated in a residential neighbourhood, Dante Casari and his daughter Barbara navigate the front of house effortlessly, serving some of the city’s more discerning diners. The sign out front says it’s a Trattoria- but that’s like calling The Ritz a motel. We introduce ourselves, as per Biba’s suggestion, as her friends, and we launch into one of the most memorable meals we had in Italy.

We thought we’d had good Bolognese – but nothing has ever approached the egg-enriched tagliatelle and reduced sauce that was served to us that night. Elegant and refined, this was more like a demi-glace- rich, layered but not too much of a good thing as it barely coated the pasta. We savoured our meal and finished off with some exceptional house made desserts and a thoughtful surprise from the owners- a glass of U’Pasa - a local dessert wine that had us both swooning in minutes. Just before leaving, Dante and Barbara present us with a foil-wrapped bottle to take with us back to Canada. A generous gesture that overwhelms us both.

So Biba- even though I lacked in manners by not sending you a hand-written Thank You card, I’m hoping you’ll accept this humble entry as my way of saying “Grazie Mile” for your thoughtfulness and generosity! May it be returned to you threefold, especially upon your next visit to that fabled “City of Towers” in which you were born.

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia. From top to bottom: As seen in our walk through Bologna; Exterior of Papa Re- notice the "trattoria" sign; Mario and I at Papa Re about to enjoy our first course. He has the elusive and delectable Bolognese pasta dish; Our glasses of U'Pasa wine and bottle.

Sweet, Cold Gold- Niagara’s Icewine Festival

There’s a magical sort of alchemy to taking frozen grapes and turning them into Icewine. Wine makers and sommeliers explain that it’s not alchemy, that ice wine is the byproduct of having good grapes to work with, the right climate and a seasoned, wine-maker. I however, suspect there’s something much more to creating this nectar fit for the gods.

Inside the Gala with an Ice Sign

For two weeks in January, the Niagara region plays host to the highly anticipated Icewine Festival every year. Last year, I made the rounds to various vineyards using the festival’s “Discovery Pass” and braved an extreme freeze to sample numerous wines paired with sweet and savoury nibbles. This year, I switched the thermal wear for formal wear and attended the Xerox Icewine Gala at the Fallsview Casino and Resort in Niagara Falls.

Sparkling chandeliers and ice sculptures adorned the ballroom where wines from over twenty-five of Ontario’s wineries were on offer. Hernder Estates, Château des Charmes, Tawse Winery, Reif Estate Winery and Fielding Estate Winery were amongst the numerous purveyors offering sips of everything from sparkling to premium wines.

Reif Icewine Flight with local cheeses

I choose some bubbly from Château des Charmes and a plate of the evening’s standout dish- a rich risotto made with red wine and gorgonzola, topped with candied pecans. I grab a perch at a cocktail table and meet Joe and Beth, two Bostonians who for the past nine years, drive nine hours to get to the Icewine Festival! I had to know- why are they such festival stalwarts? Joe responds, “Because we love icewine! You don’t get anything like this where we’re from so we make sure to get our fill while we’re here.”

Candied apple desserts at the Gala

Fluke? Possibly until I meet Dr. Michael from Miami, Florida who, like my new pals from Boston, is an Icewine festival devotee. “The doctors at the hospital know not to mess with my Icewine Festival week. This week in January is MINE!” says Dr. Michael with a smile. Indeed- who would want to keep a man from his vino?

The next day, we visit Ravine, Reif, and Stratus vineyards. The food pairings at Ravine were outstanding! The owners’ son Paul, just back from a stage in Germany, made the best pork rillettes I’ve ever had, hands down. Wine consultant Peter Gamble explained the unique terroir of St. David’s bench and we sampled the fruits of the family’s labour of love. German-born Klaus Reif regaled us with four varieties of icewine- from a 2008 Riesling to a 2008 Cabernet Franc. But it’s the 2007 Vidal Icewine that most impresses my palate with lush tropical fruit off the top and a balanced acidity at the end that’s perfectly crisp.

Ravine Winter Vineyard in St. David's Bench

We end the day at the Twenty Valley Winter Winefest where open fires, more wine and food are on offer from this particular corner of the region. Sated and tired, I meander back to the car with words like “brix” (sugar present in wine) swirling in my mind. I know this is the science part of icewine making, but the smooth flavour of the Stratus Riesling icewine lingers, so I know it’s alchemy at work here. Maybe even some magic…

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia

Dobar Tek- Croatian for Bon Appétit!

I speak Croatian like a one year old. Despite my best efforts, my Romance Language hard-wired brain (native tongue is Spanish), just doesn’t want to jive with my husband’s Slavic lingo. I can say bread, cheese, meat and cake with the best of them in Croatian - interspersed with a please and a thank you. That held me in good stead as we travelled through Croatia recently (he’s a fluent speaker so I didn’t have to say too much) - a beautiful country that in parts looks the spitting image of Italy’s Tuscany at a fraction of the price. And yes, the food and wine are as good!

There is a major food distinction to be made in Croatia. Inland cuisine features a “Continental” style repertoire with hearty meat, potato and bean dishes for example. On the coast, dishes lighten up and feature seafood, olive oil and other Mediterranean delights. Within short proximity of each other, we were happily able to sample both.

We started in inland Istria- an area of Croatia that used to belong to Italy. Signage in this part of the country is both in Croatian and Italian with towns like Umag are also known as Umago. And coincidentally, inland Istria is also home to the Croatian truffle. One fine day, Giancarlo Zigante’s dog Diana found the Guinness World Record-holding truffle weighing in at a lofty 1,310 kg! That was November 1999 near the sleepy town of Livade- which now boasts of one of the finest restaurants in the area belonging to Zigante whose specialty is of course (drum roll please) the truffle! Weighed before being delicately shaved over fish, soups and roasted meats- this earthy, sensual delight is in no short supply here and is as good as the Piedmontese varieties. In fact, a lot of truffle I saw on a recent trip to Italy was from Croatia, just packaged in Italy! Dear reader, I’m effusive, but not prone to too much exaggeration. I was as surprised as you are.

The day after celebrating our wedding anniversary at Zigante’s and dining like royalty (truffle even in our dessert!), we drove to the home town of one of the grande dames of Istrian cuisine, Lidia Bastianich (restaurateur, chef, cookbook author and TV show host). The sea-side city of Pula greeted us with an afternoon sun that illuminated the ancient amphitheatre with every shade of gold. Spectacular columns and Roman statues proudly flanked what was once a public gathering space; a crisp blue sky playing background to its majesty.

We walked to the waterside promenade- The Riva- where locals suggested we try just caught fish and a local specialty- blitva. Boiled potatoes, wilted swiss chard, caramelized garlic gently bathed in a light olive oil makes the most perfect partner to a piece of freshly grilled brancin (or sea perch) with a glass of fabulous local Malvasia wine. It was all I could do to muster a sincere “Puno hvala” (thank you very much) to our suntanned server who smiled at my kid-like attempt to speak his language. In mid-stride, he stopped, turned around and in stilted English replied “You are very welcome! Come back and visit us again.” You can count on it!

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia, from top to bottom: Zigante Trgovina, where tourists and locals alike fine truffle cream, truffle oil, olive oil, Malvasia wine; Our server slices the whisper thin truffles onto our dish. The REAL deal!

Barcelona’s Gothic Gem- the Barri Gotic

Wandering the crooked, cobblestone-lined streets of Barcelona’s beautiful Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) leaves me feeling like a lucky Alice In Wonderland. As light streams through the narrow passageways, this fantasy-like neighbourhood that used to be a Roman town, beckons the weary traveler with the scent of freshly baked bread, cakes and chocolates.

But I’m in the mood for dinner, so I follow my nose to a unique restaurant concept called Origen 99.9% - a tapas bar that uses the aforementioned percentage of local Catalan ingredients in their menu. Proudly local and freshly seasonal, your dinner might include a torrada (olive oil toasted baguette-like bread) with a side of historically accurate almondroc. This is a fabulous boiled egg and garlic spread made according to a 14th century recipe. It doesn’t sound like much, but spread on that toasted-to-perfection, freshly-baked bread, I guarantee you, almondroc will become a new favourite. I wash that down with a glass of local Cabernet Sauvignon and enjoy a side of sopa de bolets- the most earthy, sensual mushroom-rich soup I’ve ever savoured.

If your waiter, like mine, is feeling generous and offers you a glass of sweet Spanish Muscatel dessert wine, graciously accept! You’ll be happy you did! Then walk over to Caelum for a heavenly dessert made by the practiced hands of Spanish nuns and monks. From centuries-old marzipan filled treats, liquor-soaked apple cake, to dried figs dipped in chocolate, you’ll find a celestial array for your sweet tooth. Don’t forget to take a look downstairs. The dark, cavernous space used to be a medieval Jewish bathhouse- but of course that didn’t stop two enamoured locals from using it as their kissing corner. What would the nuns say?

The Barri Gotic was home and inspiration to Picasso as well as local artist Joan Miró whose sculptures and artistic legacies can be appreciated throughout this sea-side city. I can see why the artists would have chosen the Barri Gotic- at times dark and mysterious, at others sunny and bright- but always welcoming and infinitely delectable.

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia. From top to bottom: A few treats from Caelum including a chocolate dipped fig, apple tart with nuts and a floral elixir; The lovely exterior of Caelum; A sculpture by Joan Miro in Barcelona.

Revéillon- the Ultimate New Year’s Revel in Brazil

Few folks can party like South Americans. My mom would tell me stories of how millions of people dress up in white for New Years Eve in countries like Cuba and Brazil and head to the ocean for a sumptuous dinner. I often think of that experience- millions of revelers dressed in white on a moonlight- kissed beach, drinking tropical cocktails made of citrus juice and Cachaça (a sugar cane spirit), eating freshly grilled seafood and dancing. Now that’s how I’d like to spend a shiver-free New Year’s eve for a change!

And that’s exactly what the lucky masses and tourists do every year in Brazil. Second only to the country’s famous “Carnival,” there’s nothing quite like a Brazilian Revéillon to close out the old and ring in the new. While French in name only, the yearly Ano Novo parties in Brazil are particularly hot in beaches throughout Rio. The Zona Sul beaches, which include Copacabana, Flamengo, Ipanema (named after that girl), and Barra de Tijuca are where the real party starts.

White- the colour of good luck, peace, purity and the Goddess of the Sea- Yemanjá in the Candomblé religion- is the colour of choice for not only for clothing but the flowers, rice and trinkets offered to her that night. Candles are lit on the beach while revelers get ready to make their offerings. Once midnight strikes, the gifts are launched into the sea on model boats. If they’re swept out by the tides, good luck will ensue in the coming year. If they’re brought back to the shore, Yemanjá wishes you better luck next time. She’s a tough task master by all accounts.

Either way, party-goers have a well-choreographed, multi-hued fireworks display to light up the tropical night, beer stalls to hit and warm waters to go swimming in to wash away the year’s excesses. On New Year’s Day, to encourage an auspicious start to the new year, soups redolent with lentils, which symbolize wealth, are eaten by all to entice wallets more than waistlines to fatten up. I love lentil soup and I’ll happily wear white this New Years! Maybe if you could put in a good word to Yemanjá for me, I’ll soon see you in Rio!

Navidad in Colombia

I remember as a little girl, the absolute thrill I felt during Christmas; and it wasn’t just about the presents and the treats. In my birth country, Colombia, we didn’t get presents from Santa Claus (or Papa Noel). Nope, it was all about sharing in the birthday of Baby Jesus (or El Niño Jesus). When I was a little girl, I used to think him the MOST generous of all birthday boys because it was he who left presents under the tree for me if I had been half way decent throughout the year (luckily, he was a forgiving sort).

Our faith and the celebratory mood of Christmas in Colombia always go hand in hand. Navidad- or Christmas in Spanish, really starts on December 7th. At dusk, the lighting of “las velitas” or the candles happens all over the country. Children and adults light candles and lanterns to make tunnels of soft, white light that beautifully illuminate the most humble of neighbourhoods, to the most spectacular streets and churches. This is done to celebrate the day of “La Virgen de la Immaculada Concepción”- or the day of the Virgin of the Immaculate conception- on December 8th. And since this is Colombia, there’s always a fiesta for every occasion, including music, buñuelos (savoury cheese fritters), cornmeal empanadas stuffed with meat and potatoes and the occasional firework display.

By December 16th, the Novenas (or daily prayers) begin for nine days until Christmas Eve, which is reserved for midnight mass followed by a feast at home. Meant to remind Colombians about the true meaning of Christmas, the Novenas are also a good excuse to gather family, sing villancicos (Spanish Christmas carols), and eat Christmas foods including my favourite- natilla (a set custard made with cinnamon that tastes like firm dulce de leche), served with a side of buñuelos, hot chocolate for the kids and a shot of aguardiente (literally “firewater”) - an anise-flavoured spirit made from sugar cane, for the adults. Roasted pig is always on the menu this time of year as are tamales, plantain-leaf steamed cornmeal masa packets wrapped around mildly chicken or pork and veggies.

But my favourite tradition has to do with engaging children to think about how lucky they are. I remember buying gifts, wrapping them and then going to deliver them to those less fortunate than myself- and I did this in Canada with my Colombian parents. If I ever have children, this would be one of the first things I’d like to do for Christmas. The expression on those kids’ faces has never left me. For at least one day a year, we can all be as generous as the birthday boy himself!