Let's talk chocolate

When Valentine’s Day rolls around, there’s only one language my husband needs to speak to get my attention. No I’m not referring to the language of love, but rather, the language of chocolate.

Second only to my husband, chocolate is the great love of my life, so much so that last year, after buying me chocolate from a chain store, my husband decided that it was not a good enough Valentine’s Day gift and trekked half way across the city to get me some other chocolate from a boutique chocolatier. I ate both happily, I’m not that much of a snob.

If there’s one place in this world where my chocolate consumption would be regarded as normal, it’s Switzerland. The country boasts the highest rate of consumption per capita (more than 11 kilograms a year per person) for this decadent treat. And who can blame them? Swiss chocolate is recognized as some of the world’s best. No the Swiss didn’t discover chocolate, and they weren’t the first to mass produce it even. But they did give it that smooth, melt in your mouth texture that makes this confection into something almost sinful. A chocolatier by the name of Lindt (sound familiar?) invented the technique to refine chocolate and elevate it even further.

But if you want to get the root of chocolate history in Switzerland, it’s the Cailler-Nestlé factory you want to visit. First you hop aboard the Chocolate train (yes, there is a chocolate train!) to get there. OK, so it’s not made of chocolate, but you get to ride in a Pullman Belle Epoque train, circa 1915 as you head off towards your ultimate chocolate destination. It’s like a Swiss version of Charlie and Chocolate Factory fantasy. Well, things won’t get that crazy, but you get to sample the goods while you’re in the factory. That’s right, once you get to the sample station, there are chocolates a plenty to try, so make sure to indulge in as many varieties as you care too. And you leave with an armful of chocolate when you visit the Cailler store on your way out.

In fact this year, in April a whole new visitors’ centre will open that will explore everything from the Aztecs chocolate secrets to the link between Cailler and the French Royal Court. And you’ll also find out about how the Swiss made the first milk chocolate by adding Gruyère milk to the confection and transforming it forever.

Of course, if you’re more of a traditionalist and want to try chocolate, a little closer to how the Aztecs had intended it, check out this recipe. Note, I said “a little closer”. I’m sure the Aztecs didn’t add Cognac to theirs.

1 litre 35 per cent cream
250g of dark chocolate (65 to 70 per cent dark)
Whole spices are better here, because you can strain them out.
1 small piece of fresh ginger,
1 dried red chili,
2 cloves,
about 10 black peppercorns,
1 bay leaf and
1 piece of star anise.
Cognac

Put the spices in a saucepan with the cream. Bring to a boil, reduce and simmer for 3 minutes. Turn off heat, cover and let sit for 1 hour to infuse.

Strain out spices and reheat cream. In a large bowl, break up the chocolate, adding a bit of the cream, when warm to start melting. Add more cream, a little at a time to temper chocolate. Once all cream is incorporated, return to saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add cognac to taste.

If it's good enough for Louis Vuitton, it's worth a try.

You would think it’s impossible for a foodie to not know about what is quite possibly the world capital of gastronomy. Unfortunately for me, I only learned about Lyon, with its internationally-renowned chefs like Paul Bocuse and its more than 40 outdoor food markets, after I came back from trip to France.

I had meticulously planned our trip, hitting Paris of course not for the food so much as the experience of being in the city of lights. Then it was off to Bordeaux. Had I known about Lyon, I might have skipped Bordeaux, since they are on opposite sides of France. However, I’m so glad I didn’t. The laid back atmosphere of the city, the quaint outskirts filled with farmers and the astonishing vineyards of the region were the highlight of my trip, even after seeing the Eiffel tower twinkling at night, which I have to admit is quite magical.

Bordeaux has been maligned, in my view, in many ways. Most people don’t realize that the area has numerous appellations of wine, 57 to be exact. Appellations such as ‘Pauillac,’ ‘Medoc,’ ‘Graves,’ ‘St. Emillion’ and ‘Sauternes’ are all from the Bordeaux area. The wines labelled “Bordeaux” are really just what is left from the crops after the winemakers have made their limit for the appellation on their property. The amount each “Chateau” can produce is strictly controlled, so any excess grapes cannot be sold under the appellation of that specific area. Instead, they are labelled Bordeaux. Since they don’t have the distinction of an appellation, they are sold a little cheaper, but don’t overlook this region as a wine destination, because it is worthy of a stop.

While in Ontario everyone is raving over ice wine right now, Sauternes, which I like to to think of the great-grandfather of icewine comes from the Bordeaux region. If you’ve ever tried a Sauternes you know it’s a dessert wine. But do you know how it’s made?
Primarily made of Semillion grapes, it is a blended wine that includes Sauvignon Blanc grapes and sometimes is blessed with a little Muscadel.

I say that the Sauternes is a distant relative of ice wine because the grapes, which must be hand-picked off the vines, just like our ice wine grapes, are also shriveled and dehydrated.
But it’s not the cold that shrivels grapes that end up your Sauternes wine. It’s a fungus that is indigenous the specific microclimate of the Sauternes region. Known as botrytis cinerea or noble rot, this is different from other conditions that would ruin the grapes. The thin skins of the Semillion grapes make them ideal as the fungus eats the skin which lends to the dehydration of the grapes.

This sweet, rich wine that often has a deep golden colour is a great pairing for foie gras, or other rich foods like terrines. Or enjoy it with dessert or as a digestif after dinner. Even Louis Vuitton has a majority stakehold in a Sauternes Chateau. The Chateaux Yquem, which is classified a “Premier Grand Cru,” one of the best of its kind, is owned by the designer label. Now, if it’s good enough for Louis Vuitton, isn’t it worth a try?

Manchego - a new cheese plate favourite

Last week when a friend put out a request over Facebook for a cheese suggestion to bring to a wine and cheese party, I quickly chimed and suggested Manchego. Turns out, I wasn’t the only one to suggest it, in fact, two other people made the same recommendation.

I have to say I was pleased to see the surgence in popularity for this Spanish cheese that I discovered during a visit to one of my favourite cheese places in Toronto. Maybe it’s the growing popularity of tapas in the city, where Manchego is served up with a ‘dulce de membrillo’ (a quince paste, another Spanish delicacy), that has made this cheese climb the culinary social ladder.

Regardless, it’s one you’ll want to get familiar with, and not just so that when it makes an appearance on a cheese plate you can wow your friends with your knowledge of international dairy products. It is a tasty nutty flavoured hard, ripened cheese that makes a tasty addition to a Spanish inspired antipasto plate-- try pairing it with some Serrano ham and almonds-- or is just great on its own, with a light drizzle of honey, or a side of fruit.

True Manchego is only made in ‘La Mancha’ region of Spain, from the milk of sheep pastured on the plateau that sits 600 metres above sea level. Like many European products, it is a protected appelation, meaning that only cheese created in that specific region, made in the same traditional fashion can be called Manchego. It is distinctive in that the outside rind is quite dark, almost black, and bears a crisscross pattern, as defined by the grass molds that are used to hold the cheese in the ripening process. The history of this cheese is rich, and is recorded, even in popular culture as early as the early 1600s. Dubbed the cheese of Don Quixote, the cheese is mentioned by name in the classic Spanish novel by Miguel Cervantes Don Quixote de la Mancha. The area has demarquated a “Don Quixote Trail” that traces the travel of this knight in the novel, along the way, you’ll see a tribute to some of the areas other agricultural contributions in the form of ancient windmills—a nod to the cereal that is grown in this grassy land.

Now, if you’re fortunate enough to be in Spain, you’ll want to try Manchego the way the locals like it, with Miel de la Alcarria, another protected designation but this time for honey made from bees that feed on the flowers of rosemary or lavender, or a combination of both. Top it all off with a glass of Riojas wine, and well, you’ve got a reason to hop on the next flight to Madrid. If you go, don’t forget to bring me back some honey, and tuck one of the area's most sought after spices—safron—in your luggage for the journey home.

Photos from top to bottom: Manchego cheese, with its trademark crisscross pattern; windmills in the La Mancha region of Spain.

Portugal? Where do I get in line?

If you’ve ever been to a Portuguese wedding, you know that these are people who love to eat. After you sit through a multi-course meal which generally includes, a salad, Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale and Potato Soup), a fish course, a meat course and dessert, you get to dance the night away… but wait, it’s not done there, because at midnight, if you’ve made enough room while dancing there’s more food – a seafood buffet, sometimes with more dessert!

Yes, the Portuguese like their seafood, and who could blame them? It’s a way of life for many, where fishing has been in their blood, further back than they can trace their family tree. In the area of Nazaré, you’ll find the sand beaches studded with fisherman’s wives who are mending nets or drying fish. Stop by a seaside eatery, and you’ll be treated to some of the freshest fish you’ve ever tasted as they serve up the catch of the day from the grill.

If you travel to the small town of Obidos, along the Silver Coast, where fortified castle walls hint at a Medieval past, you’ll find the Obidos lagoon rich in a variety of mollusks, often used in a hearty stew known as Caldeirada, similar to the French Bouillabaise. What could be a more satisfying meal after a day of strolling through the cobblestone streets, admiring the ancient white washed buildings of this heritage city?

Caldeirada is one of those dishes that can be as varied as the different regions of the country. Depending on where you are in Portugual, the dish could be made of fish, a combination of fish and shellfish, or fish and chouriço (a Portuguese-style sausage). Some areas spice it up with the popular Piri-Piri sauce (a hot pepper blend), and others are more particular to saffron. No matter how the tasty stew is made, don’t forget to use that crusty bread it’s served with to sop up the juices. That’s the best part of your meal!


Now of course, you can’t go to Portugal without first arriving in Lisbon, and well, that’s where one of my favourite Portuguese treats originated, the Pasteis de Nata (custard tarts). These little golden wonders, have a pastry so flaky, they give puff pastry a run for their money, and a centre so decadent, it’s almost like creme brulée in an edible cup. In Lisbon, the history of these pastries is celebrated. A monastery Mosteiro dos Jerónimos set up shop to sell these pastries in 1837 to raise money, and the recipe was heavily guarded. The pastries from the monastery are known as Pasteis de Belem. Today, people still line up to get them hot out of the even, sprinkled with a little cinnamon sugar. Everywhere else, they are known as Pasteis de Nata. These little guys are so popular, that even here in Toronto, all Portuguese and some mainstream bakeries alike carry them. So if you want a sweet little taste of Portugal, you never have to wander too far. Although, if I was in Lisbon, I’d probably be first in line to get a fresh baked batch from the Monastery.

Italy - now that's my kind of boot

As January rolls in, I'm starting to think of putting the feasting of December behind me and dusting off some of my healthy eating habits.

One of the Italian New Year's Day traditions in a lentil soup. Lentils a symbol of good luck, could also be called a symbol of good health as they are a great lean source of protein and vitamins, and let's face it, even us Bon Vivants need a little balance sometime. Pulses, those little nutritional power houses, are hearty too, so they fill you up and never leave you feeling deprived. After all, even if we're being good, no one says you have to go hungry. So what better way to kick off the New Year.

The village of Castelluccio di Norcia during lentil flowering.

Generally, the Italian version of this soup very basic recipe that calls for stock, lentils, some onions, carrots and a bay leaf. Personally, I would throw in some pancetta or some italian sausage, as lentils are a natural match for pork, and need a salty kick.

The Castellucio plains are located in the Umbria region in Italy, which on the "boot" would be about mid calf, is prized for its perfect lentils, also home to both black and white truffles. A delicate flavour and tiny size, these lentils are a beautiful addition to a plate, or a soup.

This region is also prized for its pork butchery, including the 'prosciutto crudo di Norcia' as well as the 'prosciutto de montagna di Norcia', both notable types of the thinly sliced salt pork that is Italy's answer to ham. Umbria is also home to some of the cheeses that we would most easily recognize here in Canada-- Pecorino, Ricotta, Mozzarella and Mascarpone are all from this region. I can just imagine visiting a cheesemonger where fresh Mozarella (or Fior de Latte) is being pulled right before my eyes, just moments before I'm able to sink my teeth into the soft taste of fresh milk.

Each basic ingredients, they highlight the strong point of Umbrian cuisine-- simplicity. Seasonal home cooking reign supreme in the region, and can Umbrian cooks help it if truffles happen to be local ingredients? They grate them on pasta or serve them with chicken liver and anchovies. A small luxury for us, is tasty local fare for them. I think this year, I will make a resolution to eat locally and embrace the local fare, even if it does mean I get on a plane once in a while to find a new taste adventure. It'll be worth every penny.

Every Country has its Cookie

If any childhood memory of Christmas, beside that of finding a mountain of presents under the tree, sticks in my head it’s baking cookies with my mom. Every year, we would roll out sugar cookie dough and cut out shapes with festive cookie cutters before popping them in the oven. When we were done, sprinkles and icing awaited to decorate the cookies that we were carefully crafting. After all, they were for our most important guest. Paired with a glass of milk, the cookies sat out Christmas Eve in anticipation of Santa’s arrival.

Now as an adult, I like to partake in the various cookie traditions from around the world as the festive season happens upon us.

One of my favourite Italian cookies that are usually available at speciality stores this time of year are amaretti cookies. They come in two varieties, hard and soft. But believe me, the soft ones are the way to go. They melt in your mouth as they give way to a bitter almond essence. Serve these treats with a cup of strong espresso after dinner. The ones I buy come wrapped in colourful paper and would make a great addition to any stocking.

Austria has given the world Linzer cookies. Another sandwich cookie made with two sugar cookies and seedless jam, it’s a popular (and colourful) choice for the season. They look pretty on any cookie platter and even kids enjoy this simple choice.

One of the most difficult festive treats to make properly are the French macarons. A meringue based sandwich cookie usually filled with a ganache, these little confections come in a rainbow of colours and flavours. They’re a popular gift at Christmas time (in case you hadn’t bought me anything yet).

In South America, Alfajores, a shortbread like sandwich cookie filled with the south American pastry staple, dulce de leche, a caramelized condensed milk. The sweet butterscotch-type filling is a great foil against the rich crumbly cookie.

Even Scotland, the country whose most notable contribution to the culinary world is haggis, the blood sausage made of sheep’s stomach, has one of the most-loved cookies for this time of year­—shortbread. Buttery and crumbly, when made properly, shortbread has just a touch of sweetness, but is pure decadence as it melts on your tongue. The world’s most famous shortbread maker Walkers is found in Northern Scotland. What better way to ring in the New Year than some shortbread and some Scottish malt whisky?

And lets not forget our own very Canadian, and very popular treat—Nanaimo bars. A nod to British Columbia and the upcoming 2010 Olympics, these chocolate treats and buttery filling have become a household staple during the holidays, even if you don’t make your own.
The great thing about culinary customs is that they are completely portable and we can share them wherever we are, even if our hearts are somewhere else this time of year.

Not your ordinary fruitcake

I know it’s only November, but I have a confession to make. I’m a closet Christmas-a-holic.

That’s right. I’m not the type that breaks out the office Christmas décor November 1, but I will listen to Christmas carols when I’m alone at home, or in the car, and I’m secretly hoping my husband will bend his rule about not putting up the tree until Dec. 1.

The holidays are a foodie’s dream come true. Any indulgence is fair game at this time of year, and it’s also a time to embrace food from different cultures as we all seem to agree that regardless of religious affiliation, there is something to celebrate as the end of the year draws closer.

One Christmas tradition that seems to run through the Caribbean and has now become part of my family rituals in Black Cake. Similar in some ways to Fruit Cake that we see in North America, Black Cake is made of dried and candied fruit, eggs, butter and flour, and a lot of alcohol. Usually around this time of year, the soaking of the dried fruit begins as we anticipate the making of this holiday treat.

My Antiguan mother-in-law uses sherry for her Black Cake, which we served up at as a parting gift to our wedding guests earlier this year. However, each family and each island does their cake a little different, and in most parts, rum is the alcohol of choice for the cake, at least in the finishing stage. I dare you to find a Jamaican who thinks otherwise.

The soaking goes on for weeks, and months even. And then about a week before Christmas, the rest of the ingredients are added to the minced up fruit and Black Cake emerges from the oven, but it’s still not ready yet.

It has to be dampened with more alcohol, until Christmas. This is called "wetting the cake." Each day, the cake is taken out of its foil and plastic wrapping and a small amount of alcohol is poured over the cake, then it is flipped and more alcohol is poured over the bottom. It is then covered again, and put back into the refrigerator awaiting its next wetting. While in North America, the gift of fruit cake is often dreaded, the gift of Black Cake is a sign of great affection. The expense and work that goes into such a cake lets the recipient know just how special they are.

And if you get the chance to sample black cake while in the Caribbean you’ll taste not only the local flavour, but you’ll sample a little of their soul too.

My mother-in-law is the keeper of our family recipe, but the New York Times printed one that's pretty good.

Want to spice things up? Visit a market!

If variety is the spice of life, then spice is what gives our everyday existence meaning and purpose.

As a chef or a home cook, there a few things more powerful or versatile in our arsenal as a good spice cupboard. Take cumin for example. Its pungent flavour will add depth to a chili, or a familiar earthy tone to a curry. The seeds can be whole, toasted, or ground, and are a staple in every cuisine from Mexico to the Middle East, to India and even Portugal.

Or how about another familiar spice: cinnamon. It’s the smell that reminds of sticky buns hot out of the oven, or a sprinkle on your latte. But it’s also a great addition to game meat or a pot of slow-braised beef short ribs.

Reading about my fellow blogger Lindan’s trip to the Istanbul Spice Market has me a little envious, since it’s one of the oldest known spice markets in the world. After all, my own collection of spice-filled mason jars, probably far exceeds the traditional spice rack one would expect, filled with such treats as star anise, ajwain seeds for Indian cooking, and cardamom seeds for my family’s Pulla recipe.

But what other vacation spots have noteworthy markets? How about Marrakech Bazaar, in Marrakech, Morocco, where you’ll find carts overflowing with spices and dried fruit, among vendors of kebabs and kafta.

Or if you’re in Mexico head to Oaxaca’s market where you’ll not only find fine Mexican chocolate (the bitter kind, not the candy), but an interesting variety of munchies. Dried grasshoppers anyone?

It seems like no matter where you go, markets seem to be a place that reflect local culture better than anywhere else. They’re a way of life for the locals, but for tourists they open the doors to wonders. Even here in Canada, the Granville Market in Vancouver which has a heavy Asian influence (I actually found whole turmeric root there) and where you can get your Dungeness crab steamed and ready to eat, or Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market, a mainstay since the days of seaway imports via Lake Ontario, show who we are, the cultures we share and where we came from.

Markets may lead you to spices, but they are the roots of any culture.

Fall Harvests

I'm piling on the sweaters, and socks, as the temperature is dropping in Toronto, and all I can think of is warm bowl of curried roast squash soup.

Fall is the season for comfort food. It's when I make chilis and stews, and hearty-stick-to-your-ribs soups.

But it's also harvest time. Apples, pears, plums are all ready for the picking now, along with a variety of squash, pumpkins, beets, Brussels sprouts and more. A pick-your-own apple adventure often leads to an afternoon of pie baking or better yet, caramel apples. And the smell of chestnuts roasting in the oven remind me that winter is just around the corner. The wine regions of Niagara and more recently, Prince Edward County host their festivals this time of year too as they begin to harvest the last crops before ice-wine season.

But as winter settles in over the next month or so, Canadian Bon Vivants who enjoy that fresh-from-the-farm experience will have to look a little further abroad. In Crete, for example, November is the time for the olive harvest. Imagine being able to walk up to an olive tree, heavy with fruit and being able to pluck it off with your own fingers from the low-lying branches, before ending your day with a freshly caught feast of seafood off the Greek coast. Talk about a foodie paradise.

Although personally, I might be more tempted by the warmer climes of California where the Napa Valley is still bursting with fresh figs and dates. Pair some of those with a hunk of soft cheese, a great loaf of bread and a bottle of wine and you've got an instant picnic to go, just don't forget the corkscrew!

And as fabulous as that sounds, I really need to just get a warm bowl of soup to fight off this cold I’ve been battling. I think I know just the kind I want too…

Paris is lovely, but this chef's heart belongs to Provence

When I convinced my husband to take me to the movie Julie & Julia, I fully expected to find myself sympathizing with the blogger character Julie as she spends a year online blogging about cooking. After all, we seem to share an interest in that department. In reality though, the real character I connected with was that of Julia Child, as she followed her true passions in life, cooking and her husband, wherever they would take her.

As an avid cook and enthusiast of French cuisine, it’s hard not to have a soft spot for the woman who tried to teach the average North American housewife to embrace a style of cooking that requires not only patience but a deep passion for food. But I must admit that there is one point on which we differ..

While Julia calls Paris her "favourite place on earth," I can’t imagine how any chef who has spent time in Provence would prefer Paris. And the French Riviera with its markets loaded down with fresh olives, figs and herbs, to say nothing of it’s near tropical climate, is the place for me.

A market in the French Riviera

Influenced by the cuisine of Italy, being so close to the border, and flush with fresh-from-the sea dishes, la Cote d’Azur has some of the country’s best food. It was in the throes of August’s warmest days when I last visited Nice and yet I insisted I needed to find a restaurant with bouillabaise. A regional dish of the French Riviera, this fish stew is hearty and filling, and not what one would expect to be eating on a hot summer night. Like Julia, I was on the hunt for an authentic French experience and so I found myself walking the strip of restaurants close to the Mediterranean sea as restaurateurs called out to us trying to lure us in with their Special du jour and always offering a little something extra.

Delicious bouillabaise on a hot summer night!

Bouillabaisse is one of those dishes that differ from kitchen to kitchen, but all good ones have the taste of Provence, which Julia explains in her book My Life in France comes from "garlic, onions, tomatoes, olive oil, fennel, saffron, thyme, bay and usually a bit of dried orange peel." And while the debate over which version of bouillabaisse is "authentic" with anyone from the region could land you in hot water, Julia’s version is pretty tasty looking.

Lingering Memories, and Flavours, of Bordeaux

Bon Vivant is excited to introduce its newest blogger, Carrie Brunet. Check out her profile and read on for her very first post.

As the summer sun sets in, I find myself longing for the French countryside of the Bordeaux region where, cooled by the breeze of the Atlantic ocean and intersected by the Gironde river, the weather stays a lot cooler than in large cities.

There’s a lot of reasons to love the Bordeaux region, which most people recognize for its wine. In fact, there are 57 appellations in Bordeaux, which means there are 57 varieties of wine (all of which are blended varieties using two or more types of grapes) produced in the region’s ‘chateaux’, including the highly-favoured Sauternes a sweet intense wine, perfectly paired with another regional specialty ‘salade landaise’ a salad topped with pine nuts smoked duck and foie gras.

And while I’m on the subject of food, it’s worth noting that Bordeaux has much more to offer than wine. Their regional cuisine, although not widely recognized like other French regions such as Alsace or Lyon, is incredibly diversified, with a strong penchant for local produce. These people were practicing the hundred-mile diet long before the Western Hemisphere caught on. And why not? Fresh oysters, caviar and sole are local delicacies. Producers in the area grow vegetables and fruit, and raise carefully controlled beef and lamb. Bazas beef is the most prized beef in France, grass fed and aged to create a melt-in-your mouth piece of meat. The Village of Bazas holds a festival each year as the cattle reach maturity. Now that sounds like a steak worth celebrating.

And of course, you can’t pass through Bordeaux without trying one of their signature treats—the canelés. Baked in copper molds, the pudding-like cakes have a brown crispy exterior with a soft custardy inside, often infused with cinnamon and other spices, along with a splash of rum. Street food at its best, local vendors sell these palm-sized treats for immediate consumption.

It’s been over a year since my last visit to Bordeaux but seeing this site, which details many of the local specialties has me hungering for my next gourmet getaway. But instead, I think I might surf the web for some copper molds, and create a little taste of Bordeaux in my own home.