La Petraia -True Tuscany, True Luxury

Ethereal, fabled, stunning- these words dance around in my mind as we drive up the cyprus tree-lined path leading to La Petraia. A fully restored and expanded 12th Century farmhouse stands proudly in the distance while the bright purple blossoms of fragrant lavender beckons gently in the breeze, perfuming the air with nature’s aromatherapy. La Petraia, or “Place of Stone” is a special place, made all the more idyllic by Canadians Susan McKenna Grant and her husband Michael Grant.

The couple scoured a few continents for a place to call their own; it had to have architectural integrity, unpolluted land suitable for organic farming and it had to inspire in them a sense of wellbeing. In the rolling Tuscan countryside of Chianti Classico, they found these ideals and more.

After years of painstaking restoration, La Petraia is considered one of Italy’s best agriturismo destinations that also happens to be a bit of a hidden gem (until now). Bon Vivant travelers will get a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the life of this pristine working farm and what it takes to keep centuries-old Tuscan traditions alive. A guided tour of the organic gardens, olive groves and vineyards will wrap up with a walk past the forest where a special herd of Cinta Senese pigs might just “pose” for the camera. This classic heirloom breed (with their distinctive white band or collar) dangerously dipped in numbers until recently when folks like Susan started breeding the free range forest pigs, prized for their rich, lean flavour.

After working up an appetite, the group will be treated to a special “Afternoon Tasting.” Four courses of just-picked, farm-fresh fare will be created for you by Susan herself, who has studied with culinary greats in Italy and France. You’re in for a gustatory delight because I’ve had the pleasure of dining at La Petraia and had one of the finest meals of my entire stay in Tuscany that night.

Tuscan wines will be paired with each course and if you’re lucky, you’ll end your afternoon savouring a piece of heaven on earth as the rose-tinted sun sets over the ancient, verdant hills. And the best part? You’ve got three more days of exploring the region before saying arrivederci to Italia.

Getting Giddy over Tuscan Wines

For most people, a trip to Tuscany takes in the glory of Florence, the stature of Pisa and (maybe) the unique towers of San Gimignano. While all of these sites capture the imagination and offer an insight into both Italian history and culture, none of them fully encompass the essence of Tuscany. For this you must venture outside the city wall into the fame rolling hills of the countryside. You need to get a little dirt under your fingernails.

For me,Tuscany is a very sensual place, and not in a creepy way. The sun shines differently here and brings everything into sharper focus. The air is perfumed with the herbs growing wild in the hills around you. The sounds of animals are everywhere and birds welcome the morning with their song. OK. I know that was overkill. There is some truth to it though.

There is a special texture to the grape vines and olive groves that seem to line every road and adorn every hillside.

These two also supply the flavour of Tuscany. There is no greater gluttonous joy than simple bread with fine olive oil drizzled atop and a Brunello from Montalcino or a Chianti with which to wash it down. The bright acidity found in the Sangiovese grape makes it the perfect match for the richness of fine olive oil. It is also a wonderful accompaniment to the cured meats and risottos that fill local plates and bellies. It is amazing that in such a highly populated country, there is so much open countryside. Now, granted, you might have to watch your step if it is hunting season, but the fact remains that there is more than enough space and fresh air to go around.

I don't know whether it is the Italian sense of humour or the shear joy of being there, but I have one other sense of Tuscany that I would like to share. I don't remember laughing so much for a long time. I seem to laugh for no reason. There are two possible reasons. The first is that I love the Tuscan countryside. The second is that I am barking mad. I will leave you to be the judge next time you are there."