Swiss Bliss

Some people would have you believe that I only like expensive wines and I’m out of touch with reality. They only say that because they know me. However, today I want to talk about drinking ordinary wine in an extraordinary place.

My girlfriend (now wife) and I were living in the UK when we met, so our first visit to any of her relatives was not here in Canada, but in Valais in Switzerland where her cousins had a little chalet. I brought along some really good red burgundy to impress them.

To be honest, I had no interest in visiting Switzerland and only went to make her happy. It was one of the best decisions I’ve made. The town of Vercorin in Valais is nestled in the Alps within easy reach of the Matterhorn and the Italian border. The Rhone River runs beneath its feet on the way to France and vinous fame. It is simply one of the most beautiful places on earth.

If you have an able body and a little energy, then do as I did and go walking here in the late Spring or early Summer. The mountain streams still hug onto the last remnants of snow and the crisp mountain air refreshes as it cools.

The local Herens cattle are famous for fighting each other in the spring to establish herd dominance. When I was there, the crowd was disappointed to find them in mainly good spirits rather than butting heads. I was happy for them.

Valais also has the largest wine industry in Switzerland. These are some of the highest vineyards in Europe at about 1,000 metres and offer some very cool views. You can discover two distinct and unique wines. The first is Fendant, which is a gentle and crisp white made from the Chasselas grape. (No, you are not meant to have heard of it.) The second is Dole, a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir that makes a soft and juicy red, perfect for the local cuisine.
The cuisine of choice is Raclette, which we enjoyed on a summers evening in the garden overlooking the neighbouring mountains. Raclette is a cheese wheel you melt over a grill and shave onto plates to serve with potatoes and pickles and dried meats. It is every bit as good and fattening as it sounds. Local cheese and local wine is a fantastic combination. It nearly made up for them taking the much more expensive burgundy to their cellar never to be seen again. Ah, family!

If Switzerland is in your plans this year Globus Tours has a tantalizing tour What’s Cooking in Switzerland led by Burt Wolf, the host of the public television series Travels & Traditions.

Let's talk chocolate

When Valentine’s Day rolls around, there’s only one language my husband needs to speak to get my attention. No I’m not referring to the language of love, but rather, the language of chocolate.

Second only to my husband, chocolate is the great love of my life, so much so that last year, after buying me chocolate from a chain store, my husband decided that it was not a good enough Valentine’s Day gift and trekked half way across the city to get me some other chocolate from a boutique chocolatier. I ate both happily, I’m not that much of a snob.

If there’s one place in this world where my chocolate consumption would be regarded as normal, it’s Switzerland. The country boasts the highest rate of consumption per capita (more than 11 kilograms a year per person) for this decadent treat. And who can blame them? Swiss chocolate is recognized as some of the world’s best. No the Swiss didn’t discover chocolate, and they weren’t the first to mass produce it even. But they did give it that smooth, melt in your mouth texture that makes this confection into something almost sinful. A chocolatier by the name of Lindt (sound familiar?) invented the technique to refine chocolate and elevate it even further.

But if you want to get the root of chocolate history in Switzerland, it’s the Cailler-Nestlé factory you want to visit. First you hop aboard the Chocolate train (yes, there is a chocolate train!) to get there. OK, so it’s not made of chocolate, but you get to ride in a Pullman Belle Epoque train, circa 1915 as you head off towards your ultimate chocolate destination. It’s like a Swiss version of Charlie and Chocolate Factory fantasy. Well, things won’t get that crazy, but you get to sample the goods while you’re in the factory. That’s right, once you get to the sample station, there are chocolates a plenty to try, so make sure to indulge in as many varieties as you care too. And you leave with an armful of chocolate when you visit the Cailler store on your way out.

In fact this year, in April a whole new visitors’ centre will open that will explore everything from the Aztecs chocolate secrets to the link between Cailler and the French Royal Court. And you’ll also find out about how the Swiss made the first milk chocolate by adding Gruyère milk to the confection and transforming it forever.

Of course, if you’re more of a traditionalist and want to try chocolate, a little closer to how the Aztecs had intended it, check out this recipe. Note, I said “a little closer”. I’m sure the Aztecs didn’t add Cognac to theirs.

1 litre 35 per cent cream
250g of dark chocolate (65 to 70 per cent dark)
Whole spices are better here, because you can strain them out.
1 small piece of fresh ginger,
1 dried red chili,
2 cloves,
about 10 black peppercorns,
1 bay leaf and
1 piece of star anise.
Cognac

Put the spices in a saucepan with the cream. Bring to a boil, reduce and simmer for 3 minutes. Turn off heat, cover and let sit for 1 hour to infuse.

Strain out spices and reheat cream. In a large bowl, break up the chocolate, adding a bit of the cream, when warm to start melting. Add more cream, a little at a time to temper chocolate. Once all cream is incorporated, return to saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add cognac to taste.