Susur Lee- Guiding Palates to Asia Via the World at Shang

We leave behind swirls of snow and a brisk winter wind upon entering the warm confines of Manhattan’s Thompson Hotel, in the city’s the lower east side. I’m with a small group of Canadians, some of us journalists, some of us in the travel industry – all of us very fortunate to have been invited by Chef Susur Lee to dine at Shang.

Named after the Chinese symbol meaning “upwards and above,” Shang manages to live up its name – literally (it’s on the second floor) and especially, when Chef Lee is at the stove. Past the dark wood, lattice cut screens, the fabric-enveloped chandeliers and the sleek bar, is a sexy dining room that whispers rather announces modern Asian.

Chef Lee’s food is, not coincidentally, in the same vein. Chinese inspired but globally-minded, Lee’s flavour forward, beautifully presented fare has led him to receive accolades from critics far and wide. Food & Wine heralded Lee as one of the "Ten Chefs of the Millennium" while Gourmet declared him "an improvisational artist." I’ve had the good fortune of trying Lee’s food before, but never a ten course tasting menu in the chef’s NYC restaurant.

One of his most popular and enduring creations is the simply titled “Singapore Slaw,” but this time he dresses it up with crudo (the Italian version of sashimi). Simple sounding yes, but the nineteen- ingredient, beautifully layered dish dressed with a salted plum vinaigrette is a textural symphony. The fish is buttery and soft, the nuts and vegetables crunchy – it is both refreshing and light for such an ingredient-laden dish.

Next, a long dish with warm sea scallops and Lee’s fanciful take on the Hong Kong staple, dim sum appears. Edamame are scattered about like a much tidier Pollock painting in spring greens dancing in Chive XO sauce. Spicy, warming, hearty- just what every winter night needs.

We devour Cantonese style skirt steak dressed with shallot brown butter and a hazelnut chili ponzu, we go a little overboard with Lee’s Cantonese wok fried pearl noodles, but it’s his Asian Duck with Peking style garnishes that puts us over the gustatory edge. Full-flavoured and texturally outstanding- the sliced duck breast gets wrapped with a traditional Asian pancake, slivers of green onion, cucumber, Hoisin sauce and instead of crispy duck skin, deep fried bean curd skins. Truly spectacular and likely half the calories, but who’s counting?

Brett Blass, the hotel’s General Manager joins us for a while and waxes eloquent on the exceptional nature of Lee’s cooking and his personality saying, “He always says, ‘Brett, what can I do to help you?’ whenever we come up against a challenge. You don’t see that too often these days, and believe me, apart from his obvious skills, I can’t stress how special it is to work with someone like Susur.”

Blass’s response clearly points to why the Thompson Hotel group chose to go with Lee when they opened their new Washington, D.C. property and wanted another unique dining experience. Lee’s Washington venture is called “Zentan.” I’ve lost count of Lee’s restaurants, his US, prime-time TV appearances (most recently, Top Chef Masters), and his growing fan base.

I’m happy for the Zen-like chef who over the years I’ve had the good fortune of getting to know professionally. He works harder than most, has a gift for combining flavours and ingredients and is smart. Besides, although he’s Hong Kong born, he’s also Canadian and one of the finest culinary representatives we could have at the third annual Cayman Cookout- the Caribbean’s premier epicurean event. If the event organizers are clever, they’ll ask him back next year where he’ll no doubt wow audiences with his personal vision of dishes that guide willing palates to Asia, via the world.

“New Scotland”- Canada’s New Culinary Hot Spot in the Making!

There’s something special about the fresh, salt-tinged air in Halifax, the deep blue of the Atlantic and the sunny disposition of people who live in a province named “New Scotland.” Maybe it’s something in the air that makes the people here just that much more hospitable than most of their Canadian counterparts. Maybe it’s the abundant seafood that they get to feast on whenever the mood strikes (seafood is supposed to be an aphrodisiac after all!). Or maybe it’s that on the eastern shores of such a massive country like Canada, the people who call Halifax home have found their own Shangri-La.

Whatever the reason, one thing is certain- this province is as beautiful as is the bounty of their tables. On a recent visit, we ate at the charming and cozy Fid Resto in downtown Halifax where owner/chef Dennis Johnston pays homage to the region’s long-lasting love affair with fresh fish and all things locally sourced. Don’t miss the warm local wild mushroom tart with Fox Hill aged cheddar (from nearby Annapolis Valley) or the perfectly seared Atlantic Halibut with roasted vegetables, organic carrots, parsnips and Brussels sprouts. Both say “proudly Nova Scotian” prepared by a chef who loves this province more than most.

At Fid, we enjoyed Gaspereau Vineyard’s 2008 Seyval Blanc- a crisp, clean and fresh wine produced by Gina Haverstock in the picturesque Annapolis Valley. A mere hour and change drive outside of Halifax, and you’re in a bucolic, gently rolling pastoral setting where local food artisans and an entire wine industry have set up shop. From lamb, cattle, fruits and vegetables, to Gaspereau Vineyard and several other wineries (including Benjamin Bridge that is working on a comprehensive “Champaign” method sparkling wine program), the Annapolis Valley is a culinary force in the making.

No stop to the valley would be complete without a visit to Tempest World Cuisine in Wolfville helmed by slow food proponent and one of the province’s celebrity chefs, Michael Howell. Take his perfectly caramelized Mahone Bay scallops with organic beets and Rancher Acres goat cheese finished in a beet beurre blanc – this was a beautifully balanced flavour sensation that typifies Howell’s cooking. Paired with the valley’s L’Acadie Vineyards L’Acadie Star (07), the wine’s citrus/grapefruit notes played off perfectly against the dish.

Wine route tours, lovingly restored historic inns that belonged to titans of the boating industry, top notch cuisine showcasing local product and miles of pristine views await the hungry traveler to Nova Scotia. I’ve been twice and every time I go, I discover a new gem and am always amazed by the hospitality locals extend to those of us “from away.” This is my kind of province and I’ve only ever been in winter. I can only imagine what the Atlantic looks like shimmering in the mid-day summer sun and what a lobster broil would taste like by the water’s edge!

Tasting the World in Dubai

Bistro Madeleine is bustling on a weekday afternoon. Smart suited businessmen and ladies of leisure chat while dining on classic French classics of steak frites and cassoulet. With chequered table cloths, soft French music playing and a rib-sticking Croque Monsieur in front of me; my mind believes, for all aesthetic purposes, that I’m in a chic Parisian bistro. Then I look outside and see the silhouette of the Burj Al Arab, the word’s tallest building in the distance and snap back to reality. I’m in the middle of the desert at the InterContinental Dubai Festival City in the United Arab Emirates.

But then this cosmopolitan emirate is full of surprises. With a melting pot of cultures living here, it was only natural that the food scene would gain a more global flavour. From tiny family-run eateries to international restaurant chains like California Pizza Kitchen and Michelin-starred fare of Nobu and Gordon Ramsay, residents are quite literally offered the world on a plate…and to fit every budget. So whether you’re savouring some shish tawouk from a street vendor or grabbing cupcakes from Magnolia Bakery at Bloomingdale’s, there’s always time – and plenty of choice – to balance both local and international range of flavours.

Ask anyone what is the cheapest and most ubiquitous neighbourhood favourite is and most will recommend the Lebanese shawarma. This is fast food, Middle Eastern style and is a treat to watch as it’s prepared. The vendor gently shaves off pieces of chicken or mutton from a giant skewer before tucking it into a pita laced with a garlicky mayo-like spread, along with fries and a couple of pickles. For vegetarians, the herbed chickpea fritters, falafel, are substituted. Both rolled up like a fat cigar; make a perfect meal on-the-go. Add some hummus and tabbouleh on the side and you have meal that is reminiscent of many homes in the Levant.

An edible trip to the subcontinent is also extremely easy and Indian cuisine is one that is widely represented. Butter chicken, biryanis, Bombay street food – the list is endless. A breakfast favourite with many Indian expats is the rice crepe from the south called a dosa that’s stuffed with turmeric-steeped potatoes served with fresh coconut-based sauces called chutneys. On weekends, expect a long wait at restaurants like Saravanaa Bhavan that specialise in this favourite. Wash it down with a cup of frothy filter coffee that errs on the sweet side but is strong enough to keep you going for the day.

The Dubai institution most expatriates look forward to however, and one that is recommended for visitors, is the Friday Brunch, when the weekend officially begins. One of the best destinations is Spectrum on One restaurant at the Fairmont Dubai, which serves champagne on tap and a buffet that’s a microcosm of the world’s cuisines, much like its clientele. From Thailand, to Europe and China, eight live kitchens churn out a tantalizing array of food that includes freshly shucked oysters and a range of cheeses.

For the three hours that the brunch is open I realise it’s like a taking a whirlwind trip around the world. Should I have the sushi, Alaskan crab legs to maybe a glass of port? Much like the buffet, I realise that the emirate’s residents are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining out. I move through the stations and come upon Peking duck. Then I decide instead of choosing a few things to try a bit of each – my taste buds will undoubtedly enjoy the international tour. And the best part is I never even had to leave Dubai to do it.

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro.

O.K. I’m paraphrasing but no one can argue that these famous digestivos of Italy pack a punch.

Amaro is a bitter liqueur that normally combines a series of herbs to create a unique flavour. The recipes are fiercely guarded and each town and village has its preferred recipe. Basically, anyone who can make wine, can distill grappa. Anyone who has a grappa has probably experimented with infusing local herbs to make an amaro. They settle the stomach, invigorate the nerves and calm the mind. I have no medical evidence for any of these claims.

When in Italy, amaro is normally served by itself in a liqueur glass. That having been said, some people have it in their coffee. I have even had amaro poured into my finished espresso cup and been told to add a cube of sugar. The point is, like all drinks in Italy, amaro is served in relation to the meal. Aperitivi give you an appetite and digestivi help you digest. Easy.

Even if the local amaro is not unique and obscure it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t indulge. There is a reason that Fernet Branca is so popular. I know you are thinking of that bottle at the local bar that is gathering dust and hasn’t seen action for several years. Well, you don’t live in Verona, do you? That same bottle wouldn’t last one night in a reasonably busy Italian bar. Don’t take my word for it. Take a look across the counter next time you’re in Rome. Actually, as everyone will be staring at the tourist leaning across the bar, you had better order one while you are at it.

True story. Well, mainly true.

The first time I tried amaro I thought someone was trying to poison me. I was young and not a heavy drinker. Neither of these problems assail me now. I was with a ‘friend’ who was telling us an old family story. (It turned out to be the plot to ‘Arsenic and Old Lace’). Anyway he lost a bet or something and had to buy the next round. He came back with a round of drinks without divulging the contents of our glasses. We were told to ‘down them in one sip’ and being young, we readily complied. You are not meant to ‘shoot’ Fernet Branca! We were convinced it was arsenic until our friend’s convulsions of laughter made it clear that it was just another part of the big, wide world. Don’t be like me. Have your first amaro intentionally!

Sipping Tea on the Ceylon Tea Trails

It’s 7am in Sri Lanka’s Bogawantalawa Valley, hours away from the capital city Colombo. I slip out of my room at the Ceylon Tea Trails’ Tienstin Bungalow and take a seat on patio. Before me lies a sea of green – tea fields enveloped in a thick cloud of mist. My only accompaniment is a cup of freshly brewed Ceylon tea with a slice of lemon and birdsong. As I take my first sip, I think about the magical sway this beverage has on tea aficionados across the world.

A trip here brings you into the heart of tea country where rolling hills of fresh tea form a picturesque backdrop against the azure sky. Ironically, in the 1800s Sri Lanka was initially a coffee growing nation – until the crops were wiped out by a fungus. As a substitute for coffee, the former British colonial rulers planted the humble tea crop. Today, more than 400,000 acres stand testament to that foresight and this ‘green gold’ remains one of the country’s most famed exports.

Slipping into the past is easy at the Ceylon Tea Trails bungalows that are owned by the local Dilmah Tea Company. Four refurbished colonial bungalows complete with stately dining rooms and manicured gardens offer visitors a luxurious stay reminiscent of the tea planter’s lifestyle. But that’s not what brings me here. It’s their epicurean vacations that draws inspiration from garden fresh produce in their own backyard.

Keen to try a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast I opt for starting the day with a riot of spices – another of the country’s main exports. Feathery string hoppers (rice pancakes) generously soak up the curry swimming with pieces of potato. The fish curry has a real kick that’s soothed by the sweet coconut in the kiribath (milk rice). The fragrant spread is accompanied by a juicy coconut sambol redolent of chilli and, of course, a pot of freshly brewed Ceylon Supreme Blend.

Surrounded by verdant tea plants, the day is spent leisurely strolling or biking through the serpentine paths. As I stop for a picnic along the way, I think I could get used to this pace of life. Next stop is a tour with the resident tea planter along Dilmah’s trails and I watch tea being hand picked, then fermented and packaged using century old artisanal methods in the factory. The tour aptly ends with a tea tasting, where I learn the intricacies of its flavours and leave feeling like a bit of a connoisseur.

Back at the bungalow I’m already looking forward to dinner – a tea-infused meal using Dilmah’s flavoured and single estate teas. My first course is a beetroot and orange salad dressed in a vinaigrette made with Spicy Berry tea. It’s followed by a succulent roast chicken anointed in a gravy of Yatta Watte (low-grown tea). Then comes the meal’s decadent sweet ending – a modern tiramisu with velvety layers of Orange Pekoe scented cream. My opinion about tea was revolutionized. It was no more just a soothing beverage, but rather, a gourmet ingredient that can hold its own.

As I sipped my post-dinner cup of tea infused with a stick of cinnamon, I couldn’t help but silently thank the former colonial rulers. Languorous meals, a locavore approach to eating, fresh air and a slower pace of life – the tea planters knew what they were doing. Little wonder Ceylon Tea Trails has been listed as Sri Lanka’s first Relias&Chateaux Resort. So the next time I need to escape, I’m returning for a trip back in time and a cuppa at this tea lover’s paradise.

Savouring the Culinary Renaissance of Ottawa

The night before I join Paola St-Georges on her “Foods of the ByWard Market Tour” in this nation’s capital, we dine at local hot spot Navarra. We’re joined by local food bloggers Don and Jen, the duo behind the city’s “Foodie Prints” blog where they discuss and review everything local and edible. Navarra is a sliver of Spain as interpreted through the trained palate of Chef René Rodriguez. Fiery reds, sleek banquettes and waiters who look like hot-blooded Flamenco dancers choreograph their way through dinner service. The food is as hot, figuratively, hence why it’s recognized by Ottawa Magazine as one of the city’s Top Ten tables.

Over a platter of sliced Iberico ham, I ask Paola how she got the idea of creating and giving food tours in Ottawa. She smiles saying, “If I had said ‘let’s explore the food scene here’ 10 years ago, you might have laughed. I actually got the idea from Don. I read an article he recommended about New York's famous food tours and I was captivated by the idea. I also realized that Ottawa's food scene was ready for these tours too.”

Before you scoff at the notion, let me pre-empt hasty judgments by saying that the last time I was in Ottawa, in the late 90s, that city’s food scene didn’t resemble this version in the least. Paola explains this saying, “The last 10-15 years has seen the emergence of a truly local, thriving food scene here. Chefs have opened their own restaurants and made it a priority to use local, seasonal ingredients while bringing their own style to dishes they serve,” adding, “Local farmers, assisted by organizations such as Savour Ottawa, have found new, enthusiastic restaurant clients. The public has shown an ever-increasing level of interest in all things food and is now buzzing about everything from new local cheeses to the latest "must-visit" restaurant.” The result of this new-found vigour is C’est Bon Cooking which includes classes helmed by Chef Andrée Riffou and tours like the one I’m about to head out on.

We start mid-morning the next day, with Paola leading the way commencing at the eponymous Metropolitain Brasserie- one of the most frequented spots for politicians and pundits during “Hill Hour.” Housing the city’s largest raw oyster bar, it’s got the requisite French café tables, chairs, and menu including crisp frites served with a side of aioli mayo. Poli sci nerds can be found gawking at their legislative heroes and heroines on any given afternoon.

We head around the corner to marvel at the Château Laurier where famed photographer Yousuf Karsh snapped the iconic image of Winston Churchill- the scowl comes from having grabbed Churchill’s cigar from his mouth!

Sumptuous afternoon tea at Zoe’s Lounge still reigns supreme at the Château. But it’s the beautiful, hidden courtyards near the market that captivate and transport me to a little French town- each one a rabbit’s warren of treasures including Planet Coffee and the Black Tomato café.

Along the way, we sip, savour and chat to chefs, shop owners, ByWard Market fruit and vegetable merchants and butchers- all proudly displaying organic produce or prized cuts from heritage breeds. I make a mental note of stopping by La Bottega Nicastro after the tour to shop at my leisure after spotting award-winning Ottawa valley cheddars. We end our tour at Le Boulanger Français where hot butter croissants await.

As Paola points out, within Ottawa city limits, there are a whopping 1267 farms- everything they need to have a flourishing food scene literally located inside the city’s urban boundary. “It's a wonder it took so long to develop!” says Paola. But now that the secret’s out and farmers, chefs and shop owners alike are getting an economic shot in the pocket book by engaged food-lovers, the future looks deliciously bright for Ottawa. And it’s about time!

Bespoke Winemaking with Rootstocks in Niagara

On a warm, early fall afternoon, my husband and I drive to some of the most scenic land in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario- the Twenty Mile Bench. It’s here that David Johnson’s Featherstone Estate Winery sits atop rich, clay soils where he grows his various varietals on twenty pristine acres. Johnson is also the resident winemaker for an intriguing new winemaking experience called Rootstocks.

Rootstocks is the brainchild of Andrew and Christina Brooks, hospitality industry professionals , sommeliers and owners of Crush on Niagara Wine Tours. Their Rootstock light bulb moment struck when the former Calgarians kept hearing overworked urbanites say “You are living my dream life.” Tired, stressed-out city dwellers would see properties like Featherstone, and the vineyard Brooks and his wife planted and they would long to somehow be a part of that.

“I thought to myself ‘what if you could have a piece of the wine country lifestyle without quitting your day job?’” says Andrew. And so, the vine to bottle concept of Rootstocks where members get a chance to partake in the winemaking experience was born and bottled. Viticultural practices and winemaking techniques are overseen by Johnson and his Featherstone Estate team and grapes are sourced from a 10 acre site in the nearby Lincoln Lakeshore DVA. The Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Riesling and Chardonnay.
We drive up to the grape-growing property in time for the sun to turn a mellow yellow. Johnson talks to us about the soil and drainage in this particular part of the escarpment and we try fresh pinot grapes straight off the vine. With Andrew’s help, I learn the art of the sabrage- where you take a long knife (originally a sabre) and literally slice the top of a champagne bottle in one fell swoosh! According to Brooks, my technique was on the money: a clean, glass round slice with the cork top still embedded the proof. I happily drank a glass of Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut to that!

Members who decide to become a part of their own, bespoke winemaking experience are a lucky bunch. They’ll get to prune their own vines (if they wish), work with experts on their wine’s lab analysis, blend, fruit process, label design- all without quitting their day jobs. They will in fact become their own land and wine barons- if even for a vintage (15-18 months). Vineyard activities and wine production begins this year, but interested members can join at any point in the year.
We end the day back at Featherstone where under the cool canopy of a vine-lined trellis we’re treated to Brook’s first two viniferous efforts: Mia 2007 Old Vines Riesling and Redhead 2004. These pair beautifully with locally procured treats, including Mario Pingue’s prosciutto, cheeses and flat breads from The Good Earth Cooking School and Winery. As we say goodbye with a bottle of Featherstone’s Onyx 2007 under our arm, we can see how harried urbanites would give their kingdom for a barrel of wine that whispers “well done you!” Talk about taking bragging rights to a whole new, wine-soaked level!