Bespoke Winemaking with Rootstocks in Niagara

On a warm, early fall afternoon, my husband and I drive to some of the most scenic land in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario- the Twenty Mile Bench. It’s here that David Johnson’s Featherstone Estate Winery sits atop rich, clay soils where he grows his various varietals on twenty pristine acres. Johnson is also the resident winemaker for an intriguing new winemaking experience called Rootstocks.

Rootstocks is the brainchild of Andrew and Christina Brooks, hospitality industry professionals , sommeliers and owners of Crush on Niagara Wine Tours. Their Rootstock light bulb moment struck when the former Calgarians kept hearing overworked urbanites say “You are living my dream life.” Tired, stressed-out city dwellers would see properties like Featherstone, and the vineyard Brooks and his wife planted and they would long to somehow be a part of that.

“I thought to myself ‘what if you could have a piece of the wine country lifestyle without quitting your day job?’” says Andrew. And so, the vine to bottle concept of Rootstocks where members get a chance to partake in the winemaking experience was born and bottled. Viticultural practices and winemaking techniques are overseen by Johnson and his Featherstone Estate team and grapes are sourced from a 10 acre site in the nearby Lincoln Lakeshore DVA. The Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Riesling and Chardonnay.
We drive up to the grape-growing property in time for the sun to turn a mellow yellow. Johnson talks to us about the soil and drainage in this particular part of the escarpment and we try fresh pinot grapes straight off the vine. With Andrew’s help, I learn the art of the sabrage- where you take a long knife (originally a sabre) and literally slice the top of a champagne bottle in one fell swoosh! According to Brooks, my technique was on the money: a clean, glass round slice with the cork top still embedded the proof. I happily drank a glass of Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut to that!

Members who decide to become a part of their own, bespoke winemaking experience are a lucky bunch. They’ll get to prune their own vines (if they wish), work with experts on their wine’s lab analysis, blend, fruit process, label design- all without quitting their day jobs. They will in fact become their own land and wine barons- if even for a vintage (15-18 months). Vineyard activities and wine production begins this year, but interested members can join at any point in the year.
We end the day back at Featherstone where under the cool canopy of a vine-lined trellis we’re treated to Brook’s first two viniferous efforts: Mia 2007 Old Vines Riesling and Redhead 2004. These pair beautifully with locally procured treats, including Mario Pingue’s prosciutto, cheeses and flat breads from The Good Earth Cooking School and Winery. As we say goodbye with a bottle of Featherstone’s Onyx 2007 under our arm, we can see how harried urbanites would give their kingdom for a barrel of wine that whispers “well done you!” Talk about taking bragging rights to a whole new, wine-soaked level!