Bespoke Winemaking with Rootstocks in Niagara

On a warm, early fall afternoon, my husband and I drive to some of the most scenic land in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario- the Twenty Mile Bench. It’s here that David Johnson’s Featherstone Estate Winery sits atop rich, clay soils where he grows his various varietals on twenty pristine acres. Johnson is also the resident winemaker for an intriguing new winemaking experience called Rootstocks.

Rootstocks is the brainchild of Andrew and Christina Brooks, hospitality industry professionals , sommeliers and owners of Crush on Niagara Wine Tours. Their Rootstock light bulb moment struck when the former Calgarians kept hearing overworked urbanites say “You are living my dream life.” Tired, stressed-out city dwellers would see properties like Featherstone, and the vineyard Brooks and his wife planted and they would long to somehow be a part of that.

“I thought to myself ‘what if you could have a piece of the wine country lifestyle without quitting your day job?’” says Andrew. And so, the vine to bottle concept of Rootstocks where members get a chance to partake in the winemaking experience was born and bottled. Viticultural practices and winemaking techniques are overseen by Johnson and his Featherstone Estate team and grapes are sourced from a 10 acre site in the nearby Lincoln Lakeshore DVA. The Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Riesling and Chardonnay.
We drive up to the grape-growing property in time for the sun to turn a mellow yellow. Johnson talks to us about the soil and drainage in this particular part of the escarpment and we try fresh pinot grapes straight off the vine. With Andrew’s help, I learn the art of the sabrage- where you take a long knife (originally a sabre) and literally slice the top of a champagne bottle in one fell swoosh! According to Brooks, my technique was on the money: a clean, glass round slice with the cork top still embedded the proof. I happily drank a glass of Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut to that!

Members who decide to become a part of their own, bespoke winemaking experience are a lucky bunch. They’ll get to prune their own vines (if they wish), work with experts on their wine’s lab analysis, blend, fruit process, label design- all without quitting their day jobs. They will in fact become their own land and wine barons- if even for a vintage (15-18 months). Vineyard activities and wine production begins this year, but interested members can join at any point in the year.
We end the day back at Featherstone where under the cool canopy of a vine-lined trellis we’re treated to Brook’s first two viniferous efforts: Mia 2007 Old Vines Riesling and Redhead 2004. These pair beautifully with locally procured treats, including Mario Pingue’s prosciutto, cheeses and flat breads from The Good Earth Cooking School and Winery. As we say goodbye with a bottle of Featherstone’s Onyx 2007 under our arm, we can see how harried urbanites would give their kingdom for a barrel of wine that whispers “well done you!” Talk about taking bragging rights to a whole new, wine-soaked level!

Liquid History

My wife and I are planning our first return to the UK in nearly four years and we can’t wait. The only difference is that this time we are bringing a 2 ½ year old. You might think that this would limit our enjoyment and our alcohol consumption. Fear not!

I will continue my quest to find the perfect British pub.

The problem is that no matter how great my current pub is, I never know if there is something even better around the corner.

What is the perfect pub? I’m glad you asked.

First it has to have something really good on tap. This must be a proper British beer and not any of that lager rubbish. I want something like and Adnam’s Broadside or a Shepherd Neame Spitfire Ale or a cask-ale from a good local brewery. It should have a pretty beer garden and a cozy interior with dark wood and an open fireplace for winter. The grub should be good, but not too fancy. (You don’t want yuppies coming in). No gaming machines, please, and not too noisy, but I want friendly bar staff and a pub landlord who takes a bit of pride in his place. Last but not least, I like my pub to have a bit of history. Now most pubs that fit the bill will be found outside of major cities in little villages that haven’t changed for generations. The Blue Anchor (East Aberthaw, Wales) is a favourite of mine and has been going since 1380 with a thatched roof and low ceilings.

However, there are some great pubs in London and if you are game, I am going to send you for a walk along the Thames at Rotherhithe and Wapping.

In a small room in the Angel (101 Bermondsey Wall East) Captain Cook planned his voyage to the new world. There are no real ales here, but a great view. Keep walking east.

The Mayflower (117 Rotherhithe Street) is where the Pilgrim Fathers set sail from in 1620 and the pub was renamed in honour of their ship. This pub has a little jetty to enjoy a pint with a perfect Thames view. Now you need to hop on the tube at Rotherhithe and go one stop north (under the Thames) to Wapping.

Keep heading East to the Prospect of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall). It is one of London’s oldest pubs and business has been done on this site since the 1500s. All of these pubs have a great Thames view and offer liquid history.

See you there. I’ll be the one pushing the stroller.

www.blueanchoraberthaw.com

A Festival for Every Flavour in Italia

October offers a bounty of food festivals throughout la bella Italia. Whether your palate prefers savoury or sweet, there’s something for every taste and proclivity.

Here are some of Bon Vivant’s Preferred Picks:

Alba International White Truffle Fair
This yearly ode to the “superior” white truffle takes place this year from October 9 to November 14th in the historic centre (or “centro storico”) of Alba, Italy. Truffle Markets run every Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 8pm to ensure you get your fair share of the fragrant tuber. Some of the world’s most celebrated chefs and their legion of followers descend upon Alba to fete the Tuber Magnatum Pico (aka white truffles). At £1600 per kilo (or $2500 USD per pound), these are considered the very best in the world and are sought after with much gusto. You may recall that in 2005, an anonymous truffle aficionado paid $112, 000.00 USD for a 2.5 pound white truffle. This yearly event also features an invitation only truffle auction, a fair and a gastro-tourist’s excuse to explore Piedmontese cuisine. White truffles grow by the roots of hazelnut and oak trees. They are characterized by a distinct musky flavour known to flavour a Piedmontese butter sauce, risotto, upscale omlettes and just about anything other dish to which you want to lend an air of sophistication.

Boccaccesca Food and Wine Festival
From October 2-10, the picturesque Tuscan town of Certaldo will play host to this epicurean delight. From spiced meats, cheeses, local olive oils, freshly baked breads, preserves and other local specialties, hungry travelers and locals alike delight in this yearly festival.
Certaldo celebrates everything local with particular emphasis on culinary traditions over two weekends with food stalls, tastings, cooking classes, chef competitions and workshops set up in courtyards, gardens and along the town streets. The narrow, medieval thoroughfares are happily filled with the stands of craftsmen and women from every part of Tuscany.
The festival runs Friday and Saturday evening from 6 pm to 9 pm, and Sunday from 11 am to 9 pm. The town of Certaldo can be reached by train or bus on the Florence-Siena train line, and a short cable car ride takes visitors to the upper town of Boccaccesca, the medieval town of Giovanni Boccaccio. There’s a 5 Euro entrance Fee on Saturday and Sunday, but Fridays are free. An extra 3 Euro will buy you a complimentary glass of local vino.

Eurochocolate:
If you dream in chocolate, then Eurochocolate, being held this October 15 to 24 in Perugia, will be sure to please any sweet tooth! Perugia, as you may know, is home to the chocolate and hazelnut clusters devoured the world over and known as Bacio Perugina (bacio means kiss in Italian).

There’s no entrance fee to this Willy Wonka chocolate-lover’s delight which runs from 9am-8pm daily (except Saturday which goes until 11pm). Chocolate competitions, sculpture making, tastings (of course!), and Eurochocolate World which takes a look at the socio-economic issues of chocolate production around the globe are all on offer. Gluttons be warned- there’s a new take on Tiramisu called Tiramigiu (pull me up) that’s sure to tempt your taste buds. Held at the Sala del Cerp della Rocca Paolina in Perugia.

Bar Jules - Chef Jessica Boncutter’s Cali-French Bistro

Culinary travelers believe me when I tell you that you’ll want to remember this name: Jessica Boncutter. A veteran of London’s fabled River Café (as is famous River Cafe alum Jamie Oliver), Boncutter cut her culinary teeth at the age of 19 when she began cooking for Judy Rodgers in San Francisco’s quintessential Californian eatery, Zuni Café.

Her new endeavour, Bar Jules, has just been named as one of Bon Appetit magazine’s “Top Ten New Restaurants” so when we make our way over there for lunch one mid-week day, we know we’re in for something special.
Located in San Francisco’s funky Hayes Valley neighbourhood, Bar Jules is a pretty, jewel-toned boîte that prides itself on offering seasonal, local fare including sustainable proteins. Menu options change daily, are well honed and offered up on two blackboards in the 38 seat dining room. Oh and the name? Boncutter named her bistro after her doggy, Jules. Bien sûr!

Since we arrived in San Francisco, Mario has been on the prowl for the perfect burger and we figure with Boncutter’s pedigree, we’ve got a good chance we’re going to find it at here. And lucky us, because that day, we see that a Marin Sun Farms beef burger is on the menu with a “little salad” served on the side. Would monsieur like some Gruyere cheese melted on top of that? Why, yes, he would!

Sandwiched in between two grilled, crusty pieces of local Acme Bakery’s “Levain” bread, one bite tells us that this is no average-joe bistro burger. “This has to be grass fed beef!” I exclaim to Mario who nods in agreement. The depth of flavour, the deep, intense meatiness of it all boldly proclaims- beef the way it’s meant to taste. I ask our efficient server who replies, “Yes! All of Marin Sun Farm’s beef is grass fed from start to finish.” And their sustainable practices also help make them a San Francisco restaurant industry favourite. Lucky, lucky diners!

I order the preserved albacore tuna sandwich with piquillo peppers, anchovy, arugula and hard cooked egg. Fresh and summery- it’s the perfect sandwich for a sunny day. But still, I find myself looking over at Mario and his juicy burger from time to time longingly- and I don’t even eat much red meat! Maybe if the beef I did eat was grass fed I would eat a bit more. That bite brought back memories of my South American childhood ensconced in two rustic pieces of bread. That alone is worth the trip to Bar Jules anytime!

Saying Si to CONTIGO in San Francisco

San Franciscans are a blessed lot. Surrounded by the fertile lands of Sonoma, Napa and every valley in between, the denizens of this city have year-round access to fresh produce of every stripe that would make any food lover kale-green with envy. So when I heard that there was a Catalan-style restaurant called Contigo (with you in Spanish) on the edge of Noe Valley serving up pintxos (aka tapas) using local produce, I said Si in a hurry!
I was joined by Mario (my husband), and locals/good pals Robyn and Maricar. Our four-top meant we were enough to order a variety of things from the well-composed menu and not get overly-stuffed. We started with the Lomo Iberico de Bellota “Pata Negra” – Spain’s famous acorn-fed, black hoofed pigs. We were served slivers of pork loin (hence the lomo part of the description) that are paprika-rubbed lending a mysterious, smokey note that we all liked. We opted for some Pa Amb Tomaquet- Catalan’s favourite snack: toasted bread with tomato pulp and olive oil to accompany our starter as well as a glass of 2009 Bizkaiko Txakolina – a fresh white that’s hard to find in Toronto.
The Txakoli wine was the perfect match for our local calamars a la planxa- flat top grilled calamari with Spanish padrón peppers and a swipe of Romesco sauce. This was by far my favourite dish of the night. Clean, simple and bursting with flavour- my kind of eating! A roasted beet, garlic chip, mint and greens salad dressed with an aged sherry vinagreta served as a side, as did a plate of Catalan-style sautéed chard with roasted almonds, golden raisins and garlic. Everyone wanted to sample the wood oven roasted local sardine and avocado toasts, so we ordered some and devoured the two-bite morsels. Topped with picked red onion rounds, this was creamy, rich and fresh.
Cali-Spanish? You bet! I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the two “postres” or desserts we inhaled. Chocolate Caliente- or hot chocolate at Contigo is rich and thick like I’ve enjoyed in Barcelona. On its own, it’s dessert-worthy but we up the ante by ordering them with churros (the breakfast of choice in Spain- my kinda country!). And we spot a house-made “helado” (ice cream) infused with none other than the city’s fabled Blue Bottle coffee- so we grab some of that too, topped with a warm chocolate sauce that will never be forgotten and a lengua de gato cookie (like a thick tuile). I still hanker for some of that helado smothered in that opulent chocolate sauce. It was more like a warm, sexy ganache from the right side of the tracks- good looking and dressed to kill. Sigh…
On a Thursday night at 8pm, Contigo was jam-packed. Locals in this town appreciate the changing roster of edible jewels whose provenance you can discern on the back of the menu. Area farmers, ranchers, fishermen, dairy producers and artisanal craftspeople all get a shout out. Owners Brett Emerson and Elan Drucker have created what they call a “Love letter to Barcelona.” Whimsical, intriguing and well-designed, Contigo can induce a Spanish crush on even the most jaded, big-city diner!

TIP: Call ahead for reservations- this place is popular with good reason!

Scooping Up San Francisco

Rain, fog or shine, San Franciscans appreciate a good scoop. No matter what the unpredictable San Franciscan weather may bring, this city’s citizens will patiently wait in a half hour plus line up for a lick of their favourite ice cream.
The Mission district seems to have the ice cream market all scooped up. Down the block from Tartine, Bi-Rite Creamery has been creating premium gourmet flavours using local Straus Family Farms’ milk and local organic ingredients in every ice cream. At least half a dozen people- both locals and travelers, tell me the “can’t miss” flavour here is salted caramel. I do a little sleuthing of my own and stumble upon ice cream guru and pastry chef David Lebovitz’s blog where he extols the virtues of Bi-Rite’s Mint Chip, informing me that organic mint oil and quality chocolate shards go into every batch.
It’s decided, Mario and I order one of each. We walk straight in and order at 11:05am. This is important to note only because the shop opens at 11am and there’s an almost perpetual lineup outside the door at all times, except at the very start of the day. I know, it’s a little early for ice cream, but we’re here to taste test the best and if that means taking one for the team, then we’re game.
Mario b-lines it for the salted caramel, I grab the mint chip and we sit down to compare flavours. Mario’s has the OMG factor- intense, caramelized sugar, perfectly creamy and balanced thanks to the salt. The Mint Chip is the embodiment of a good mint chip, but compared to the salted caramel, the flavour pales in comparison.
Out of journalistic integrity, I ask the affable chap behind the counter if I can try a teaspoonful of the summer-only flavour Balsamic Strawberry and the intriguingly named Ricanela. The strawberry is deft and subtle, but it’s the Ricanela- with its soft cinnamon notes and Mexican horchata (a rice and almond milk beverage) flavour swirled with flecks of Snickerdoodle candy that captures our taste buds. It’s like a Mexican birthday cake in every lick- si por favor!
Several blocks away, pastry chef Jake Godby can be found whipping up a variety of wild and wonderful flavours at his Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream shop. His simple royal blue and white shop with its fantastical double-headed cow logo has recently been written up in the New York Times for its more adult-focused flavours. Boccalone Prosciutto ice cream, Thai Chili Lime sorbet, and “Secret Breakfast” (Bourbon and corn flakes) are some of the unique flavours on offer.
We sit down to a scoop of Secret Breakfast, McEvoy Olive Oil, and Honey and Thyme ice cream. Next to us are two Manhattanites who find themselves in the largely Mexican Mission neighbourhood with brimming bowls of whimsical flavours. I ask them how they’re enjoying their scoops, “This is really very good quality ice cream,” says the lady in question who adds, “we get just about everything in New York City but we don’t quite have ice cream like this!” Her husband nods in agreement.
The hands-down favourite in our bowls is the Secret Breakfast- the bourbon adding a sophisticated, toffee like backdrop to the cornflake crunch ensconced in a creamy cloud. Humphry Slocombe’s ice cream can also be enjoyed in a Blue Bottle Affogato (espresso with a scoop of ice cream) at the Ferry Market Plaza Building and at Contigo in Noe Valley where the flavour is Blue Bottle Ice Cream served with a hot chocolate ganache and a crisp tuille. Good thing there are enough steep streets to keep the cardio levels up and the ice cream quotient in check!

San Francisco’s Most Delectable Petit Dejeuner

I can’t think of a more delectable way to start the day in San Francisco than by heading over to Tartine Bakery & Café in the Mission District for a bon petit dejeuner. As my husband Mario and I walk toward an unassuming café on the corner of Guerrero and 18th, the scent of freshly baked pastries ensconced in melted chocolate and butter helps lift the city’s morning fog.

Inside, the simple, white room is already people-packed at 9:20am. We wait in a line that spills out on to the street and ogle the perfectly curated array of tempting treats. There’s frangipane, pain au chocolat, cake aux olives (a savoury loaf of gruyere cheese, olive slivers, Niman Ranch ham pieces and rosemary), bread pudding with fresh, seasonal fruit, “Breakfast Buns” made with orange sugar, éclairs (for the decadent) and the best black pepper and thyme gougeres (large, golden glorious cheese puffs). And that’s just for starters. We order a round of café au lait beverages to accompany our selections and feel as if we’re on the Left Bank.

We’re joined by Olga Katsnelson – a San Francisco-based food publicist who knows something about what’s wallet-worthy food-wise in the city. At her behest, Texas-born, Culinary Institute of America trained Chad Robertson stops by to say hello. Chad and his wife Elisabeth Prueitt are the “quality obsessed” owners (as Olga would say), of Tartine. We learn that he worked in Burgundy, France for years, along with Elisabeth before returning to the US to put into practice all that they’ve learned. San Franciscans are appreciative patrons.

“For a city of 800,000, seems to me like you lot dine out more than most,” I remark to Olga. She nods in agreement- “Yes,” she replies, “this is a city that takes its food seriously!”

Mario asks Olga why, with the myriad choices available in town, this is possibly the most beloved French pastry shop in San Francisco. She says, “because they do everything the hard way. There are no short cuts and you can taste it.” She’s dead-on. My quiche, made using market-fresh, organic tomatoes, peppers, herbs and crème fraiche is the best I’ve ever had. And bless their hearts- the staff here have the good sense to oven warm their quiche (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had my order micro-waved resulting in a soggy, almost water-logged disgusting crust).We wait until 10am at which point Mario gets his wish- an open faced Croque Monsieur sandwich with Niman Ranch ham, gruyere and tomato slices over the bakery’s own rustic, crumb-perfect bread.

By the time we leave, there’s a new wave of patrons lining up for their mid-morning snacks and coffees. Olga tells us that by 5pm, when Chad and Elisabeth put out their daily freshly baked bread selections in time for dinner, they will be sold out in 15 minutes. It’s no wonder the dynamic duo behind Tartine have won a spate of awards. Their newest book, “ Tartine Bread” is due out this year- so if you’re a bread aficionado, keep your eyes out. It will be a tasty tome.