Tasting the World in Dubai

Bistro Madeleine is bustling on a weekday afternoon. Smart suited businessmen and ladies of leisure chat while dining on classic French classics of steak frites and cassoulet. With chequered table cloths, soft French music playing and a rib-sticking Croque Monsieur in front of me; my mind believes, for all aesthetic purposes, that I’m in a chic Parisian bistro. Then I look outside and see the silhouette of the Burj Al Arab, the word’s tallest building in the distance and snap back to reality. I’m in the middle of the desert at the InterContinental Dubai Festival City in the United Arab Emirates.

But then this cosmopolitan emirate is full of surprises. With a melting pot of cultures living here, it was only natural that the food scene would gain a more global flavour. From tiny family-run eateries to international restaurant chains like California Pizza Kitchen and Michelin-starred fare of Nobu and Gordon Ramsay, residents are quite literally offered the world on a plate…and to fit every budget. So whether you’re savouring some shish tawouk from a street vendor or grabbing cupcakes from Magnolia Bakery at Bloomingdale’s, there’s always time – and plenty of choice – to balance both local and international range of flavours.

Ask anyone what is the cheapest and most ubiquitous neighbourhood favourite is and most will recommend the Lebanese shawarma. This is fast food, Middle Eastern style and is a treat to watch as it’s prepared. The vendor gently shaves off pieces of chicken or mutton from a giant skewer before tucking it into a pita laced with a garlicky mayo-like spread, along with fries and a couple of pickles. For vegetarians, the herbed chickpea fritters, falafel, are substituted. Both rolled up like a fat cigar; make a perfect meal on-the-go. Add some hummus and tabbouleh on the side and you have meal that is reminiscent of many homes in the Levant.

An edible trip to the subcontinent is also extremely easy and Indian cuisine is one that is widely represented. Butter chicken, biryanis, Bombay street food – the list is endless. A breakfast favourite with many Indian expats is the rice crepe from the south called a dosa that’s stuffed with turmeric-steeped potatoes served with fresh coconut-based sauces called chutneys. On weekends, expect a long wait at restaurants like Saravanaa Bhavan that specialise in this favourite. Wash it down with a cup of frothy filter coffee that errs on the sweet side but is strong enough to keep you going for the day.

The Dubai institution most expatriates look forward to however, and one that is recommended for visitors, is the Friday Brunch, when the weekend officially begins. One of the best destinations is Spectrum on One restaurant at the Fairmont Dubai, which serves champagne on tap and a buffet that’s a microcosm of the world’s cuisines, much like its clientele. From Thailand, to Europe and China, eight live kitchens churn out a tantalizing array of food that includes freshly shucked oysters and a range of cheeses.

For the three hours that the brunch is open I realise it’s like a taking a whirlwind trip around the world. Should I have the sushi, Alaskan crab legs to maybe a glass of port? Much like the buffet, I realise that the emirate’s residents are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining out. I move through the stations and come upon Peking duck. Then I decide instead of choosing a few things to try a bit of each – my taste buds will undoubtedly enjoy the international tour. And the best part is I never even had to leave Dubai to do it.

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro.

O.K. I’m paraphrasing but no one can argue that these famous digestivos of Italy pack a punch.

Amaro is a bitter liqueur that normally combines a series of herbs to create a unique flavour. The recipes are fiercely guarded and each town and village has its preferred recipe. Basically, anyone who can make wine, can distill grappa. Anyone who has a grappa has probably experimented with infusing local herbs to make an amaro. They settle the stomach, invigorate the nerves and calm the mind. I have no medical evidence for any of these claims.

When in Italy, amaro is normally served by itself in a liqueur glass. That having been said, some people have it in their coffee. I have even had amaro poured into my finished espresso cup and been told to add a cube of sugar. The point is, like all drinks in Italy, amaro is served in relation to the meal. Aperitivi give you an appetite and digestivi help you digest. Easy.

Even if the local amaro is not unique and obscure it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t indulge. There is a reason that Fernet Branca is so popular. I know you are thinking of that bottle at the local bar that is gathering dust and hasn’t seen action for several years. Well, you don’t live in Verona, do you? That same bottle wouldn’t last one night in a reasonably busy Italian bar. Don’t take my word for it. Take a look across the counter next time you’re in Rome. Actually, as everyone will be staring at the tourist leaning across the bar, you had better order one while you are at it.

True story. Well, mainly true.

The first time I tried amaro I thought someone was trying to poison me. I was young and not a heavy drinker. Neither of these problems assail me now. I was with a ‘friend’ who was telling us an old family story. (It turned out to be the plot to ‘Arsenic and Old Lace’). Anyway he lost a bet or something and had to buy the next round. He came back with a round of drinks without divulging the contents of our glasses. We were told to ‘down them in one sip’ and being young, we readily complied. You are not meant to ‘shoot’ Fernet Branca! We were convinced it was arsenic until our friend’s convulsions of laughter made it clear that it was just another part of the big, wide world. Don’t be like me. Have your first amaro intentionally!

Sipping Tea on the Ceylon Tea Trails

It’s 7am in Sri Lanka’s Bogawantalawa Valley, hours away from the capital city Colombo. I slip out of my room at the Ceylon Tea Trails’ Tienstin Bungalow and take a seat on patio. Before me lies a sea of green – tea fields enveloped in a thick cloud of mist. My only accompaniment is a cup of freshly brewed Ceylon tea with a slice of lemon and birdsong. As I take my first sip, I think about the magical sway this beverage has on tea aficionados across the world.

A trip here brings you into the heart of tea country where rolling hills of fresh tea form a picturesque backdrop against the azure sky. Ironically, in the 1800s Sri Lanka was initially a coffee growing nation – until the crops were wiped out by a fungus. As a substitute for coffee, the former British colonial rulers planted the humble tea crop. Today, more than 400,000 acres stand testament to that foresight and this ‘green gold’ remains one of the country’s most famed exports.

Slipping into the past is easy at the Ceylon Tea Trails bungalows that are owned by the local Dilmah Tea Company. Four refurbished colonial bungalows complete with stately dining rooms and manicured gardens offer visitors a luxurious stay reminiscent of the tea planter’s lifestyle. But that’s not what brings me here. It’s their epicurean vacations that draws inspiration from garden fresh produce in their own backyard.

Keen to try a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast I opt for starting the day with a riot of spices – another of the country’s main exports. Feathery string hoppers (rice pancakes) generously soak up the curry swimming with pieces of potato. The fish curry has a real kick that’s soothed by the sweet coconut in the kiribath (milk rice). The fragrant spread is accompanied by a juicy coconut sambol redolent of chilli and, of course, a pot of freshly brewed Ceylon Supreme Blend.

Surrounded by verdant tea plants, the day is spent leisurely strolling or biking through the serpentine paths. As I stop for a picnic along the way, I think I could get used to this pace of life. Next stop is a tour with the resident tea planter along Dilmah’s trails and I watch tea being hand picked, then fermented and packaged using century old artisanal methods in the factory. The tour aptly ends with a tea tasting, where I learn the intricacies of its flavours and leave feeling like a bit of a connoisseur.

Back at the bungalow I’m already looking forward to dinner – a tea-infused meal using Dilmah’s flavoured and single estate teas. My first course is a beetroot and orange salad dressed in a vinaigrette made with Spicy Berry tea. It’s followed by a succulent roast chicken anointed in a gravy of Yatta Watte (low-grown tea). Then comes the meal’s decadent sweet ending – a modern tiramisu with velvety layers of Orange Pekoe scented cream. My opinion about tea was revolutionized. It was no more just a soothing beverage, but rather, a gourmet ingredient that can hold its own.

As I sipped my post-dinner cup of tea infused with a stick of cinnamon, I couldn’t help but silently thank the former colonial rulers. Languorous meals, a locavore approach to eating, fresh air and a slower pace of life – the tea planters knew what they were doing. Little wonder Ceylon Tea Trails has been listed as Sri Lanka’s first Relias&Chateaux Resort. So the next time I need to escape, I’m returning for a trip back in time and a cuppa at this tea lover’s paradise.

Savouring the Culinary Renaissance of Ottawa

The night before I join Paola St-Georges on her “Foods of the ByWard Market Tour” in this nation’s capital, we dine at local hot spot Navarra. We’re joined by local food bloggers Don and Jen, the duo behind the city’s “Foodie Prints” blog where they discuss and review everything local and edible. Navarra is a sliver of Spain as interpreted through the trained palate of Chef René Rodriguez. Fiery reds, sleek banquettes and waiters who look like hot-blooded Flamenco dancers choreograph their way through dinner service. The food is as hot, figuratively, hence why it’s recognized by Ottawa Magazine as one of the city’s Top Ten tables.

Over a platter of sliced Iberico ham, I ask Paola how she got the idea of creating and giving food tours in Ottawa. She smiles saying, “If I had said ‘let’s explore the food scene here’ 10 years ago, you might have laughed. I actually got the idea from Don. I read an article he recommended about New York's famous food tours and I was captivated by the idea. I also realized that Ottawa's food scene was ready for these tours too.”

Before you scoff at the notion, let me pre-empt hasty judgments by saying that the last time I was in Ottawa, in the late 90s, that city’s food scene didn’t resemble this version in the least. Paola explains this saying, “The last 10-15 years has seen the emergence of a truly local, thriving food scene here. Chefs have opened their own restaurants and made it a priority to use local, seasonal ingredients while bringing their own style to dishes they serve,” adding, “Local farmers, assisted by organizations such as Savour Ottawa, have found new, enthusiastic restaurant clients. The public has shown an ever-increasing level of interest in all things food and is now buzzing about everything from new local cheeses to the latest "must-visit" restaurant.” The result of this new-found vigour is C’est Bon Cooking which includes classes helmed by Chef Andrée Riffou and tours like the one I’m about to head out on.

We start mid-morning the next day, with Paola leading the way commencing at the eponymous Metropolitain Brasserie- one of the most frequented spots for politicians and pundits during “Hill Hour.” Housing the city’s largest raw oyster bar, it’s got the requisite French café tables, chairs, and menu including crisp frites served with a side of aioli mayo. Poli sci nerds can be found gawking at their legislative heroes and heroines on any given afternoon.

We head around the corner to marvel at the Château Laurier where famed photographer Yousuf Karsh snapped the iconic image of Winston Churchill- the scowl comes from having grabbed Churchill’s cigar from his mouth!

Sumptuous afternoon tea at Zoe’s Lounge still reigns supreme at the Château. But it’s the beautiful, hidden courtyards near the market that captivate and transport me to a little French town- each one a rabbit’s warren of treasures including Planet Coffee and the Black Tomato café.

Along the way, we sip, savour and chat to chefs, shop owners, ByWard Market fruit and vegetable merchants and butchers- all proudly displaying organic produce or prized cuts from heritage breeds. I make a mental note of stopping by La Bottega Nicastro after the tour to shop at my leisure after spotting award-winning Ottawa valley cheddars. We end our tour at Le Boulanger Français where hot butter croissants await.

As Paola points out, within Ottawa city limits, there are a whopping 1267 farms- everything they need to have a flourishing food scene literally located inside the city’s urban boundary. “It's a wonder it took so long to develop!” says Paola. But now that the secret’s out and farmers, chefs and shop owners alike are getting an economic shot in the pocket book by engaged food-lovers, the future looks deliciously bright for Ottawa. And it’s about time!

Bespoke Winemaking with Rootstocks in Niagara

On a warm, early fall afternoon, my husband and I drive to some of the most scenic land in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario- the Twenty Mile Bench. It’s here that David Johnson’s Featherstone Estate Winery sits atop rich, clay soils where he grows his various varietals on twenty pristine acres. Johnson is also the resident winemaker for an intriguing new winemaking experience called Rootstocks.

Rootstocks is the brainchild of Andrew and Christina Brooks, hospitality industry professionals , sommeliers and owners of Crush on Niagara Wine Tours. Their Rootstock light bulb moment struck when the former Calgarians kept hearing overworked urbanites say “You are living my dream life.” Tired, stressed-out city dwellers would see properties like Featherstone, and the vineyard Brooks and his wife planted and they would long to somehow be a part of that.

“I thought to myself ‘what if you could have a piece of the wine country lifestyle without quitting your day job?’” says Andrew. And so, the vine to bottle concept of Rootstocks where members get a chance to partake in the winemaking experience was born and bottled. Viticultural practices and winemaking techniques are overseen by Johnson and his Featherstone Estate team and grapes are sourced from a 10 acre site in the nearby Lincoln Lakeshore DVA. The Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Riesling and Chardonnay.
We drive up to the grape-growing property in time for the sun to turn a mellow yellow. Johnson talks to us about the soil and drainage in this particular part of the escarpment and we try fresh pinot grapes straight off the vine. With Andrew’s help, I learn the art of the sabrage- where you take a long knife (originally a sabre) and literally slice the top of a champagne bottle in one fell swoosh! According to Brooks, my technique was on the money: a clean, glass round slice with the cork top still embedded the proof. I happily drank a glass of Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut to that!

Members who decide to become a part of their own, bespoke winemaking experience are a lucky bunch. They’ll get to prune their own vines (if they wish), work with experts on their wine’s lab analysis, blend, fruit process, label design- all without quitting their day jobs. They will in fact become their own land and wine barons- if even for a vintage (15-18 months). Vineyard activities and wine production begins this year, but interested members can join at any point in the year.
We end the day back at Featherstone where under the cool canopy of a vine-lined trellis we’re treated to Brook’s first two viniferous efforts: Mia 2007 Old Vines Riesling and Redhead 2004. These pair beautifully with locally procured treats, including Mario Pingue’s prosciutto, cheeses and flat breads from The Good Earth Cooking School and Winery. As we say goodbye with a bottle of Featherstone’s Onyx 2007 under our arm, we can see how harried urbanites would give their kingdom for a barrel of wine that whispers “well done you!” Talk about taking bragging rights to a whole new, wine-soaked level!

Liquid History

My wife and I are planning our first return to the UK in nearly four years and we can’t wait. The only difference is that this time we are bringing a 2 ½ year old. You might think that this would limit our enjoyment and our alcohol consumption. Fear not!

I will continue my quest to find the perfect British pub.

The problem is that no matter how great my current pub is, I never know if there is something even better around the corner.

What is the perfect pub? I’m glad you asked.

First it has to have something really good on tap. This must be a proper British beer and not any of that lager rubbish. I want something like and Adnam’s Broadside or a Shepherd Neame Spitfire Ale or a cask-ale from a good local brewery. It should have a pretty beer garden and a cozy interior with dark wood and an open fireplace for winter. The grub should be good, but not too fancy. (You don’t want yuppies coming in). No gaming machines, please, and not too noisy, but I want friendly bar staff and a pub landlord who takes a bit of pride in his place. Last but not least, I like my pub to have a bit of history. Now most pubs that fit the bill will be found outside of major cities in little villages that haven’t changed for generations. The Blue Anchor (East Aberthaw, Wales) is a favourite of mine and has been going since 1380 with a thatched roof and low ceilings.

However, there are some great pubs in London and if you are game, I am going to send you for a walk along the Thames at Rotherhithe and Wapping.

In a small room in the Angel (101 Bermondsey Wall East) Captain Cook planned his voyage to the new world. There are no real ales here, but a great view. Keep walking east.

The Mayflower (117 Rotherhithe Street) is where the Pilgrim Fathers set sail from in 1620 and the pub was renamed in honour of their ship. This pub has a little jetty to enjoy a pint with a perfect Thames view. Now you need to hop on the tube at Rotherhithe and go one stop north (under the Thames) to Wapping.

Keep heading East to the Prospect of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall). It is one of London’s oldest pubs and business has been done on this site since the 1500s. All of these pubs have a great Thames view and offer liquid history.

See you there. I’ll be the one pushing the stroller.

www.blueanchoraberthaw.com

A Festival for Every Flavour in Italia

October offers a bounty of food festivals throughout la bella Italia. Whether your palate prefers savoury or sweet, there’s something for every taste and proclivity.

Here are some of Bon Vivant’s Preferred Picks:

Alba International White Truffle Fair
This yearly ode to the “superior” white truffle takes place this year from October 9 to November 14th in the historic centre (or “centro storico”) of Alba, Italy. Truffle Markets run every Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 8pm to ensure you get your fair share of the fragrant tuber. Some of the world’s most celebrated chefs and their legion of followers descend upon Alba to fete the Tuber Magnatum Pico (aka white truffles). At £1600 per kilo (or $2500 USD per pound), these are considered the very best in the world and are sought after with much gusto. You may recall that in 2005, an anonymous truffle aficionado paid $112, 000.00 USD for a 2.5 pound white truffle. This yearly event also features an invitation only truffle auction, a fair and a gastro-tourist’s excuse to explore Piedmontese cuisine. White truffles grow by the roots of hazelnut and oak trees. They are characterized by a distinct musky flavour known to flavour a Piedmontese butter sauce, risotto, upscale omlettes and just about anything other dish to which you want to lend an air of sophistication.

Boccaccesca Food and Wine Festival
From October 2-10, the picturesque Tuscan town of Certaldo will play host to this epicurean delight. From spiced meats, cheeses, local olive oils, freshly baked breads, preserves and other local specialties, hungry travelers and locals alike delight in this yearly festival.
Certaldo celebrates everything local with particular emphasis on culinary traditions over two weekends with food stalls, tastings, cooking classes, chef competitions and workshops set up in courtyards, gardens and along the town streets. The narrow, medieval thoroughfares are happily filled with the stands of craftsmen and women from every part of Tuscany.
The festival runs Friday and Saturday evening from 6 pm to 9 pm, and Sunday from 11 am to 9 pm. The town of Certaldo can be reached by train or bus on the Florence-Siena train line, and a short cable car ride takes visitors to the upper town of Boccaccesca, the medieval town of Giovanni Boccaccio. There’s a 5 Euro entrance Fee on Saturday and Sunday, but Fridays are free. An extra 3 Euro will buy you a complimentary glass of local vino.

Eurochocolate:
If you dream in chocolate, then Eurochocolate, being held this October 15 to 24 in Perugia, will be sure to please any sweet tooth! Perugia, as you may know, is home to the chocolate and hazelnut clusters devoured the world over and known as Bacio Perugina (bacio means kiss in Italian).

There’s no entrance fee to this Willy Wonka chocolate-lover’s delight which runs from 9am-8pm daily (except Saturday which goes until 11pm). Chocolate competitions, sculpture making, tastings (of course!), and Eurochocolate World which takes a look at the socio-economic issues of chocolate production around the globe are all on offer. Gluttons be warned- there’s a new take on Tiramisu called Tiramigiu (pull me up) that’s sure to tempt your taste buds. Held at the Sala del Cerp della Rocca Paolina in Perugia.