Monday, September 21, 2009

Paris is lovely, but this chef's heart belongs to Provence

When I convinced my husband to take me to the movie Julie & Julia, I fully expected to find myself sympathizing with the blogger character Julie as she spends a year online blogging about cooking. After all, we seem to share an interest in that department. In reality though, the real character I connected with was that of Julia Child, as she followed her true passions in life, cooking and her husband, wherever they would take her.

As an avid cook and enthusiast of French cuisine, it’s hard not to have a soft spot for the woman who tried to teach the average North American housewife to embrace a style of cooking that requires not only patience but a deep passion for food. But I must admit that there is one point on which we differ..

While Julia calls Paris her "favourite place on earth," I can’t imagine how any chef who has spent time in Provence would prefer Paris. And the French Riviera with its markets loaded down with fresh olives, figs and herbs, to say nothing of it’s near tropical climate, is the place for me.

A market in the French Riviera

Influenced by the cuisine of Italy, being so close to the border, and flush with fresh-from-the sea dishes, la Cote d’Azur has some of the country’s best food. It was in the throes of August’s warmest days when I last visited Nice and yet I insisted I needed to find a restaurant with bouillabaise. A regional dish of the French Riviera, this fish stew is hearty and filling, and not what one would expect to be eating on a hot summer night. Like Julia, I was on the hunt for an authentic French experience and so I found myself walking the strip of restaurants close to the Mediterranean sea as restaurateurs called out to us trying to lure us in with their Special du jour and always offering a little something extra.

Delicious bouillabaise on a hot summer night!

Bouillabaisse is one of those dishes that differ from kitchen to kitchen, but all good ones have the taste of Provence, which Julia explains in her book My Life in France comes from "garlic, onions, tomatoes, olive oil, fennel, saffron, thyme, bay and usually a bit of dried orange peel." And while the debate over which version of bouillabaisse is "authentic" with anyone from the region could land you in hot water, Julia’s version is pretty tasty looking.

3 comments:

  1. I've never been to Paris or Provence so I'm living vicariously through the blogs on Bon Vivant!! I have a question not necessarily regarding wine or food but rather about Paris itself!People seem to either love it or hate it! Recently I was talking to a friend who had visited Paris and she absolutely hated it and will never visit again! She did however rave about her experience elsewhere in France...namely Provence which she named specifically! So, I'd appreciate any comments regarding your experiences in France!

    Thanks

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  2. I love both. Parisians used to be to be rather brusque with people who did not even try to speak French. That edge has softened now to the point where some of us who speak French are annoyed at how quickly people lapse into English.

    What goes around come around I guess.

    Why choose between Paris and Provence? I would hate to choose between New York City and Cape Cod or between Toronto and the Eastern Townships of Quebec.

    Cheers,

    rbs

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  3. Hi Marilyn,
    Having spent time in Paris, I can see how some people might dislike it. It has all the trappings of a major metropolis, lots of people, traffic, smog, ect... Not to mention the restaurants are kind of hit and miss. Paying good money does not always ensure a good meal as my husband and I found on when we dined in les Champs Elysée. But I guess I'm a bit of a sucker when it comes to Eiffel tower twinkling at night or l'Arc de Triomphe standing proud in the middle of a busy roundabout. It really is a magical, if not overpriced, city.
    That being said, there are other areas in France that offer a much more laid back getaway like Provence and the Riviera which has palm trees and beaches (I could live there!) Even Bordeaux on the western edge, has great shopping, is becoming a food and wine destination, and is much more affordable.
    I have to agree with Richard though, it is like comparing apples and oranges, and if you're going to travel abroad, I'd try to take in more than just one city.
    Cheers,

    Carrie

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