Friday, August 5, 2011

Flavours of Tuscany Tour - Worth Savouring only 4 seats left

You drive up the Cyprus lined lane and take a deep breath of air that’s been delicately perfumed with wild lavender. Up on the hill, you spot a beautifully restored 12th Century farmhouse surrounded by the glorious, rolling landscape of Chianti Classico in Tuscany. It’s here, at La Petraia that your hosts Susan McKenna Grant and her husband Michael Grant will greet you at their luxury agriturismo for a behind-the-scenes tour of their property and for a hand-crafted lunch prepared by Susan herself. The best part? All of the food you enjoy comes straight from La Petraia’s biodynamic gardens. You’re in for a treat and the culinary delights have just begun with Bon Vivant’s Flavours of Tuscany tour.

For those that want to get their hands literally in the pasta, you have ample opportunity to flex your kitchen muscle with chef and author Judy Witts Francini who will teach you Tuscan staples at her cooking school in the medieval town of Colle Val D’Elsa. After mastering the art of making hand-rolled pasta, meat dishes and dessert, you sit down to a sumptuous meal accompanied by perfectly paired Tuscan wines.

The gourmands and culinary historians in the group will appreciate a visit to the Giusti family’s Gran Deposito Aceto Balsamico di Modena Giuseppe Giusti in Emilia Romagna. Bon Vivants will be guided through the gran deposito of arguably one of the world’s best Balsamic Vinegars by the charming Claudio Stefani himself- a 17th generation descendant of Giuseppe Giusti who started the family business. In fact, his family is credited with being the first to record the balsamic vinegar recipe in history and it doesn’t hurt that these vinegars are also listed in the book “101 Things to Buy Before You Die.” And since the Flavours of Tuscany tour is about giving travelers an intimate taste of the culinary landscape in that part of Italy, the group will head over to the Locanda delle Quattro Stagioni for a bespoke lunch featuring Giusti’s various balsamic vinegars.

Wine lovers have much to look forward to as well, because on this tour, you’ll head to Tolaini Winery Estate in Chianti Classico, helmed by Tuscan Pierluigi Tolaini. Here, you’ll taste his much-lauded wines, explore the cellar, the vineyards and be treated to a beautiful Tuscan meal under the stars.

Flavours of Tuscany also proudly offers a boat excursion in Cinque Terre, an English-speaking guide in Rome, cheese and candy factory visits, exceptional lodging and most meals. All you have to do is wear comfortable walking shoes, bring your camera and your buon appetito! For itinerary and tour details, http://bit.ly/qtXYMR

Monday, May 16, 2011

France’s Country Accent- The Camargue Region


We’re in the south of France on our first official shoot day with Paris-born, Toronto-based chef Pascal Ribreau. He’s assembled a filming crew from Toronto to help him breathe life into a long-dreamt idea of his: he’s going to shoot a pilot about French food and culture. Mostly, he’s on a mission to prove Michael Steinberger wrong- the author of “Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine,” in which Steinberger theorizes that French food is pretty much dead.

We all warn him about the fickle nature of TV these days and broadcast executive’s shifting moods that sway somewhere between docu-soap, reality TV and what I call “humiliation TV.” Ribreau is undeterred. And here we are in the idyllic town of Uzès, in France’s Languedoc region, at a little bistro called “Terroirs” where troubled youth do the serving and fabulous local fare is du rigueur. “To our first day all together and to being here,” says Pascal with a raised wine glass adding, “Four years ago- I was in a coma. I didn’t know whether I’d be here today. I’m so happy I am – Thank you Viagra! And thank you all!”

We toast to that and laugh because we know Pascal and understand the subtext. I personally call him the “miracle man.” After successfully opening Alumette in Montreal, a car accident threw Pascal from the vehicle leaving him wheelchair bound for the rest of his life. But that didn’t stop him from opening the much-lauded Célestin in Toronto (he designed a special wheelchair that allows him to stand so he can cook). It was after that that Pascal suffered a variety of health complications including a series of mini-strokes leaving him in a coma four years ago in Toronto. As a final attempt to resuscitate him, doctors gave him an overdose of Viagra- originally meant as a blood vessel booster- and as if on cue, the chef awoke from his four day hiatus. My point is if anyone can make this work some way, somehow, against broadcaster odds, it’s assuredly Pascal Ribreau- the most positive human being I’ve ever met.

The next day, after months of planning on behalf of Pascal and his wife Laurie, we head off to the one of France’s best kept secrets- the Camargue region. Here, French cowboys have been roaming the plains and swamp lands inhabited by majestic black bulls, white wild horses and rice paddies since the seventeenth century. And I’m not talking about your garden variety cowboy. These lads are called “gardians” and their dress is far from denim rugged. Colourful Provençal shirts peek out from underneath neat vests, a hat somewhere between a fedora and a bowler hat crown their heads and grey stovepipe pants with black piping cover up athletic legs. Yes, we ladies had much eye candy to behold.

We head out to Le Mas de Peint in the sleepy town of Le Sambuc where Lucille Bon and her late husband Jacques created five-star opulence in the heart of France’s “wild west.” Apart from the luxurious boutique hotel that whispers luxury with a Provençal country accent, the estate is a working ranch or “manade” as they’re known here. Amidst the hotel’s signature sage green and soft yellows, Pascal meets with resident chef Julien Banlier (a disciple of famed French great Alain Ducasse) and together, they prepare a gourmet version of the local favourite- Bull Cheek Stew or Gardiane de Taureau.

Usually made with cubed bull meat, this elegant version created by Julien includes braised bull cheeks marinated for two days in star anise, marjoram, onion, local red wine, ginger, garlic, fennel and shallots. Think beef bourguignon but lighter and yet somehow more intense. The bull cheeks melt in the mouth as do garden-picked vegetables prepared the Ducasse way- with a little broth and olive oil to bring out their natural sweetness and essence.

Under a fragrant wisteria –lined terrace, we sit down to a typically Camarguaise meal with two happy chefs who have resurrected and refined a classic French favourite. French food dead? Not if Pascal has anything to say about it. And he’s got plenty to say about the matter- hopefully, coming to a small screen near you.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Off the Beaten Path Dining in Miami, FL


There’s a world of flavour to explore in Miami beyond Caribbean and Latin American fare. The Fairmont Turnberry Isle, located just minutes from North Miami Beach and South Beach asked Miami-based food blogger Paula Nino to come up with culinary must-tries in the area for guests looking to explore further afield; even though the hotel offers a spate of top notch dining options including nationally acclaimed Chef Michael Mina's new BOURBON STEAK restaurant.


Here are some of Paula’s highlights should you find yourself in the sunshine state with a hankering for something delicious that also happens to be off the beaten path:



TIMO (1764 Collins Avenue, Sunny Isles Beach) - I’ve had the good fortune of eating at this restaurant where Tim Andriola serves up rib-sticking Italian and Mediterranean fare in a gracious setting. The highlight- blistered pizzas from the cozy, wood-burning oven, crispy oyster salad or a perfectly grilled grouper with tender crisp vegetable contorni.



NAOE (175 Sunny Isles Boulevard, Sunny Isles Beach) - Looking for the freshest Japanese fare around? Look no further than the intimate, 17-seat Naoe, where Chef Kevin Cory’s “omakase” menu (Chef’s Choice) bento box is the perfect fit for adventurous eaters and culinary explorers. It’s recommended you make a reservation.



RED LIGHT (7700 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami) – Tucked away in the MiMo District with a view to the Little River Neighbourhood, you’ll find this New Orleans inspired gem. Chef Kris Wessel draws from his NOLA roots to create a menu big on southern comfort food that’s fresh and flavourful. Highlights include the BBQ shrimp and the oyster pie.



MICHY’S (6927 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami) – You’d be remiss to head to Miami and not stop by local celeb chef Michelle Bernstein’s upscale Iberian-influenced bistro made with local, seasonal fare. From blue cheese and Serrano ham croquetas to Peruvian ceviche and crispy chickpea panisse-there’s something for every palate.



INDOMANIA (131 26th Street, Miami Beach) – Comfortable and family-friendly, this restaurant features the talents of a husband-wife team from the Netherlands that regales diners with Dutch-Indonesian dishes. Prepare to scarf a plate of rijsttafel (rice served with a series of sides) and beef rendang- a flavourful beef stew.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Romance Across the Globe





What makes a restaurant romantic? The question alone can ignite hour long debates depending on your definition of the word and concept. At Bon Vivant, we’ve done some dining and drinking for you and have came up with some simple criteria to help ignite the flames of passion.

Here’s what fuels our fire: the restaurant must have ambience, preferably off-the- beaten path so you’re not sardine crammed with every self-proclaimed Casa Nova, the food and drink must be delicious-not necessarily in a 5 star sense, speak to its locale, and the service must be attentive without being rigid or stuffy. Most would agree this makes for a special evening, no matter what time of year.

So we’ve taken our wish list and looked around the globe for some highlights- by no means exhaustive- to whet your appetites and get you in the mood to share a sensual meal with your loved one. Buen Provecho to you all!

Pan Latin Love at Cucharamama- Hoboken, NJYes, New Jersey! I said slightly off-the-beaten-path- and Chef Maricel Presilla’s ode to pan Latin specialties is worth the twelve minute ferry ride from downtown Manhattan. The wood burning oven casts diners in a golden glow- or is that the Guarapita de Aragua working its mojo? This is one of Venezuela’s most delicious drinks, made with Santa Teresa Ron Antiguo de Solera and passion fruit juice. From spicy Peruvian fare spiked with panca peppers to Argentinean churrasco, the continent is literally your oyster. With Chef Presilla at the helm (she has studied the food ways of Latin America for over 20 years), you are in expert hands.

Moyo Restaurant on the Spier Wine Estate, Stellenbosch, South AfricaReserve a table in the “tree tops” (like your own tree house) and enjoy the a cappella choir gently serende you in Zulu as warm water pours over a basin so you can wash your hands. If the night’s chilly, wrap up in wooly blankets slung behind your chair and head over to the generous, South African buffet where potjies (cast iron pots) full of savoury stews and other specialties await. Don’t miss the malva pudding with a ladle or two of Cape Velvet liquor. Lekker! And you’re in wine country after all, so there’s no shortage of fabulous offerings and South African Ruby Ports to finish dinner with.

Wine Region North- Ravine Vineyard, St. Davids, OntarioRemoved from the bustle of Niagara-on-the-Lake, this is undoubtedly one of the Niagara region’s best dining destinations. Family owned and operated, this vineyard takes wine making seriously, and now that prodigal son Paul Harber is back from his culinary stage in Germany, the food does the wine proud. Check their website often for special events where wine-paired, seasonal tasting menus are beautifully prepared by Chef Harber (who staged under Canada’s legendary Michael Stadtlander). Don’t miss the vineyard’s 2007 Redcoat- a food friendly Merlot redolent with plums and spice or Ravine’s Rieslings- the 2007 is sold out, but good things are expected for future vintages (see above picture for some Ravine wines). You’ll likely dine in a recreation of the original 1920s fruit packing shed where wood fired oven breads that are made on-site begin to tempt the palate for what’s to follow. Canadian terroir at its best!

A Dash of La Dolce Vita at La Petraia- Chianti Classico, Tuscany, ItalyIf the weather’s warm, dine al fresco on the spacious stone-lined patio off the kitchen of La Petraia where Susan McKenna-Grant will be helming the stoves using her farm’s organic, pristine products. You’ll settle in with a Prosecco and a dash of blackberry syrup, some artisanal bread made in-house, dips and a captivating vista of Tuscany’s gently rolling hills. As course after course of carefully curated dishes regales the senses, you look out over nectarine-hued sky and the majestic Cyprus trees and wonder how you got so lucky. McKenna Grant’s agriturismo is high-end without any pretense or stuffiness, and her food is flawless. Prepare to be enchanted, Italian style. That’s amore!

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Fire it up: Spicy aphrodisiacs


My first memory of spice came with a Bombay sandwich, back home in India. And no, I didn't want to kiss the guy who prepared it for me. It was delectable though, with two slices of soft white bread moistened with butter and a fiery coriander chutney, on which sat evenly cut slices of tomato, potato, beetroot and onions. I barely knew the word aphrodisiac, let alone that foods like chillies could put both the mind and body ‘in the mood’. So I couldn't say if it stirred anything inside of me, but I did enjoy sharing more than one sandwich with my husband all those years ago.

When you think of aphrodisiacs, the first thought is oysters. But coming from the land of spices (and the Kamasutra) we take the fact for granted that we eat these ‘romance inducing’ ingredients every day. Nutmeg, chillies, and cloves – we have them all in our spice cupboard. My mother used ginger, considered good for women's blood flow and temperament, daily. Cinnamon, used to perfume rice dishes and desserts was also a favourite. Once used by the Queen of Sheba to attract King Solomon, the warming spice is known to increase sexual desire – and historical references proves it obviously works.

When I travelled to Thailand, I quickly got addicted to their spicy papaya salad, which comes chock-full of dried chilli flakes, with the perfect balance of sweet and sour dressing. Served on small plates at makeshift carts along the streets, it was refreshing and left a gentle heat on the tongue. Now I'm not complaining because some scientists have theorized that when one consumes chillies it creates the same reactions as when making love, such as, increased heart rate, palpitations and perspiration. And it gets the 'feel good' endorphins going as well. Now who can argue with that?

One of the joys of living in a culturally diverse country like Canada is the ability to find a veritable banquet of cuisines from all over the world. Japanese sushi and sashimi are one of my favourites, and considered an aphrodisiac by some. But it’s not the freshest coral salmon and tuna that ignite the fire within. That distinction goes to the freshly grated horseradish that it’s often paired with it, which has long been considered one of nature’s best stimulants, and known to work particularly well for women.

Right now one of my favourite double-whammy aphrodisiacs is available in most grocery stores - Lindts' dark chocolate with chilli. A square melting on the tongue starts innocently enough with the rich cocoa turning creamy. But then you feel a slow heat emanating and you know that the chilli is starting to work as well. We know chocolate is commonly known as the ‘Food of the Gods’ and releases serotonin, a chemical that scientists say puts the consumer in a state of bliss. Add these amorous properties along with the chillie's heat (pardon the pun) and you should have your honey eating right out of your hands before the night is over.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Bubbles of Love


All I know about St. Valentine is that he was a Christian priest in Roman times who died a gruesome death for his beliefs.

Isn’t that romantic?

Maybe not, but I think bubbles are. Sparkling wine conjures images of celebration and there is nothing more worthy of celebration than your relationship with the one you love. If one special person should not be available, good bubbles can help you fall in love with the world at large.

Sparkling wine is any wine with bubbles in it. Champagne is the king of sparklers and comes from one place….Champagne. This is a magical region of northern France, an easy drive of just over 150 kilometers from Paris. Reims (sort of pronounced Renz) is prettier than Epernay and has great historical significance, but Epernay is the business end where most of the famous producers reside.

Like a good relationship, it takes a lot of work to make a good Champagne. First you have to make wine and then you have to create a second fermentation. This happens in the bottle in which the wine will eventually be sold. A little sugar and yeast are added and the resulting fermentation creates alcohol (something that has always helped my relationships) and bubbles. The bubbles are trapped in the bottle and re-absorbed into the wine, only to appear when the cork is popped.

Here’s a note on opening a bottle of bubbles. There is a lot of pressure in the bottle of Champage. (I will refrain from any relationship connection here.) Never aim the bottle at a loved one. Hold it at a 45 degree angle and firmly grip both cork and bottle. Then gently twist the bottle instead of the cork. If done correctly, a Champenois once told me the cork should not ‘pop, but sigh like a satisfied woman’. How very French! If this is true I am yet to open a bottle correctly. (Either that or I have never satisfied a woman.)

I always keep the metal cage on the cork to help me grip. This is however, a very bad idea if you don’t follow my earlier advice about not aiming it at a loved one.

So, why is Champagne the drink of lovers around the world? For this answer, I think I will defer to the iconic Epicurean, Brillat-Savarin.

“Burgundy makes you think off silly things, Bordeaux makes you talk of them and Champagne makes you do them.”

Should you find yourself without companionship on the 14th, allow me to make a suggestion. Be somewhere with a glass of Champagne and a fabulous view.

[Photo]Nick in Istanbul without his wife, but with his Champagne.


Friday, January 14, 2011

Susur Lee- Guiding Palates to Asia Via the World at Shang


We leave behind swirls of snow and a brisk winter wind upon entering the warm confines of Manhattan’s Thompson Hotel, in the city’s the lower east side. I’m with a small group of Canadians, some of us journalists, some of us in the travel industry – all of us very fortunate to have been invited by Chef Susur Lee to dine at Shang.

Named after the Chinese symbol meaning “upwards and above,” Shang manages to live up its name – literally (it’s on the second floor) and especially, when Chef Lee is at the stove. Past the dark wood, lattice cut screens, the fabric-enveloped chandeliers and the sleek bar, is a sexy dining room that whispers rather announces modern Asian.

Chef Lee’s food is, not coincidentally, in the same vein. Chinese inspired but globally-minded, Lee’s flavour forward, beautifully presented fare has led him to receive accolades from critics far and wide. Food & Wine heralded Lee as one of the "Ten Chefs of the Millennium" while Gourmet declared him "an improvisational artist." I’ve had the good fortune of trying Lee’s food before, but never a ten course tasting menu in the chef’s NYC restaurant.

One of his most popular and enduring creations is the simply titled “Singapore Slaw,” but this time he dresses it up with crudo (the Italian version of sashimi). Simple sounding yes, but the nineteen- ingredient, beautifully layered dish dressed with a salted plum vinaigrette is a textural symphony. The fish is buttery and soft, the nuts and vegetables crunchy – it is both refreshing and light for such an ingredient-laden dish.

Next, a long dish with warm sea scallops and Lee’s fanciful take on the Hong Kong staple, dim sum appears. Edamame are scattered about like a much tidier Pollock painting in spring greens dancing in Chive XO sauce. Spicy, warming, hearty- just what every winter night needs.

We devour Cantonese style skirt steak dressed with shallot brown butter and a hazelnut chili ponzu, we go a little overboard with Lee’s Cantonese wok fried pearl noodles, but it’s his Asian Duck with Peking style garnishes that puts us over the gustatory edge. Full-flavoured and texturally outstanding- the sliced duck breast gets wrapped with a traditional Asian pancake, slivers of green onion, cucumber, Hoisin sauce and instead of crispy duck skin, deep fried bean curd skins. Truly spectacular and likely half the calories, but who’s counting?

Brett Blass, the hotel’s General Manager joins us for a while and waxes eloquent on the exceptional nature of Lee’s cooking and his personality saying, “He always says, ‘Brett, what can I do to help you?’ whenever we come up against a challenge. You don’t see that too often these days, and believe me, apart from his obvious skills, I can’t stress how special it is to work with someone like Susur.”

Blass’s response clearly points to why the Thompson Hotel group chose to go with Lee when they opened their new Washington, D.C. property and wanted another unique dining experience. Lee’s Washington venture is called “Zentan.” I’ve lost count of Lee’s restaurants, his US, prime-time TV appearances (most recently, Top Chef Masters), and his growing fan base.

I’m happy for the Zen-like chef who over the years I’ve had the good fortune of getting to know professionally. He works harder than most, has a gift for combining flavours and ingredients and is smart. Besides, although he’s Hong Kong born, he’s also Canadian and one of the finest culinary representatives we could have at the third annual Cayman Cookout- the Caribbean’s premier epicurean event. If the event organizers are clever, they’ll ask him back next year where he’ll no doubt wow audiences with his personal vision of dishes that guide willing palates to Asia, via the world.
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