Tuesday, January 19, 2010

There's always time for tapas

My interests when travelling are pretty broad – I can wander through archaeological sites and ancient cities, hike through rainforests and canoe down jungle rivers. I can lose myself in museums and orchid gardens.

But wherever you find me and whatever I’m doing, food is never far from my mind – trying local restaurants and street food stalls, exploring the local markets and grocery stores, taking cooking classes to learn about traditional foods, visting local food festivals – no matter how big or small. If there’s a food angle you’ll find me there.

So last year when I finally made plans to spend a couple of days in Sevilla I planned to go tapas hopping. My friends warn that it’s Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) and I won’t find a hotel. Armed with a list of recommendations I begin the long process of finding of a room. My first call to my first choice yields a room. I guess Las Casas de la Juderia (The Houses of the Jews) isn’t a big seller during Semana Santa.

We arrive in late afternoon, walk around the neighbourhood planning how to see everything we want to see in the next two days. We decide to hit one tapas bar and make it an early night. We start with sangria and then order small plates of boquerones, calamares, anchovies, tortilla, chorizo, olives and almonds.


I know about the religious processions held during Semana Santa and certainly intend to see one while in Sevilla. Turns out every church has its own procession and there’s a schedule published. As we walk towards the church, the streets are lined with people and every balcony is filled with people. As the procession rounds the corner we’re amazed to see thousands of participants in outfits similar to, but not to be mistaken for those worn by Ku Klux Klan members. (We’d been told about them, but it’s hard to imagine until you’re there).



Each procession has two ‘floats’ (one with Jesus and the Cross, the other the Madonna) that are carried throughout the neighbourhood by 20 or more people. It’s a huge honour to carry the float but also a huge responsibility. In one place they had to all crouch down to be able to get under an overhead pass. And, although there are police everywhere keeping the crowds back, people are always breaking through and closing in on the floats.



It was just an amazing experience and everyone should try to visit during Semana Santa. And, don’t worry, I know where you can get a room.

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