“New Scotland”- Canada’s New Culinary Hot Spot in the Making!

There’s something special about the fresh, salt-tinged air in Halifax, the deep blue of the Atlantic and the sunny disposition of people who live in a province named “New Scotland.” Maybe it’s something in the air that makes the people here just that much more hospitable than most of their Canadian counterparts. Maybe it’s the abundant seafood that they get to feast on whenever the mood strikes (seafood is supposed to be an aphrodisiac after all!). Or maybe it’s that on the eastern shores of such a massive country like Canada, the people who call Halifax home have found their own Shangri-La.

Whatever the reason, one thing is certain- this province is as beautiful as is the bounty of their tables. On a recent visit, we ate at the charming and cozy Fid Resto in downtown Halifax where owner/chef Dennis Johnston pays homage to the region’s long-lasting love affair with fresh fish and all things locally sourced. Don’t miss the warm local wild mushroom tart with Fox Hill aged cheddar (from nearby Annapolis Valley) or the perfectly seared Atlantic Halibut with roasted vegetables, organic carrots, parsnips and Brussels sprouts. Both say “proudly Nova Scotian” prepared by a chef who loves this province more than most.

At Fid, we enjoyed Gaspereau Vineyard’s 2008 Seyval Blanc- a crisp, clean and fresh wine produced by Gina Haverstock in the picturesque Annapolis Valley. A mere hour and change drive outside of Halifax, and you’re in a bucolic, gently rolling pastoral setting where local food artisans and an entire wine industry have set up shop. From lamb, cattle, fruits and vegetables, to Gaspereau Vineyard and several other wineries (including Benjamin Bridge that is working on a comprehensive “Champaign” method sparkling wine program), the Annapolis Valley is a culinary force in the making.

No stop to the valley would be complete without a visit to Tempest World Cuisine in Wolfville helmed by slow food proponent and one of the province’s celebrity chefs, Michael Howell. Take his perfectly caramelized Mahone Bay scallops with organic beets and Rancher Acres goat cheese finished in a beet beurre blanc – this was a beautifully balanced flavour sensation that typifies Howell’s cooking. Paired with the valley’s L’Acadie Vineyards L’Acadie Star (07), the wine’s citrus/grapefruit notes played off perfectly against the dish.

Wine route tours, lovingly restored historic inns that belonged to titans of the boating industry, top notch cuisine showcasing local product and miles of pristine views await the hungry traveler to Nova Scotia. I’ve been twice and every time I go, I discover a new gem and am always amazed by the hospitality locals extend to those of us “from away.” This is my kind of province and I’ve only ever been in winter. I can only imagine what the Atlantic looks like shimmering in the mid-day summer sun and what a lobster broil would taste like by the water’s edge!

Tasting the World in Dubai

Bistro Madeleine is bustling on a weekday afternoon. Smart suited businessmen and ladies of leisure chat while dining on classic French classics of steak frites and cassoulet. With chequered table cloths, soft French music playing and a rib-sticking Croque Monsieur in front of me; my mind believes, for all aesthetic purposes, that I’m in a chic Parisian bistro. Then I look outside and see the silhouette of the Burj Al Arab, the word’s tallest building in the distance and snap back to reality. I’m in the middle of the desert at the InterContinental Dubai Festival City in the United Arab Emirates.

But then this cosmopolitan emirate is full of surprises. With a melting pot of cultures living here, it was only natural that the food scene would gain a more global flavour. From tiny family-run eateries to international restaurant chains like California Pizza Kitchen and Michelin-starred fare of Nobu and Gordon Ramsay, residents are quite literally offered the world on a plate…and to fit every budget. So whether you’re savouring some shish tawouk from a street vendor or grabbing cupcakes from Magnolia Bakery at Bloomingdale’s, there’s always time – and plenty of choice – to balance both local and international range of flavours.

Ask anyone what is the cheapest and most ubiquitous neighbourhood favourite is and most will recommend the Lebanese shawarma. This is fast food, Middle Eastern style and is a treat to watch as it’s prepared. The vendor gently shaves off pieces of chicken or mutton from a giant skewer before tucking it into a pita laced with a garlicky mayo-like spread, along with fries and a couple of pickles. For vegetarians, the herbed chickpea fritters, falafel, are substituted. Both rolled up like a fat cigar; make a perfect meal on-the-go. Add some hummus and tabbouleh on the side and you have meal that is reminiscent of many homes in the Levant.

An edible trip to the subcontinent is also extremely easy and Indian cuisine is one that is widely represented. Butter chicken, biryanis, Bombay street food – the list is endless. A breakfast favourite with many Indian expats is the rice crepe from the south called a dosa that’s stuffed with turmeric-steeped potatoes served with fresh coconut-based sauces called chutneys. On weekends, expect a long wait at restaurants like Saravanaa Bhavan that specialise in this favourite. Wash it down with a cup of frothy filter coffee that errs on the sweet side but is strong enough to keep you going for the day.

The Dubai institution most expatriates look forward to however, and one that is recommended for visitors, is the Friday Brunch, when the weekend officially begins. One of the best destinations is Spectrum on One restaurant at the Fairmont Dubai, which serves champagne on tap and a buffet that’s a microcosm of the world’s cuisines, much like its clientele. From Thailand, to Europe and China, eight live kitchens churn out a tantalizing array of food that includes freshly shucked oysters and a range of cheeses.

For the three hours that the brunch is open I realise it’s like a taking a whirlwind trip around the world. Should I have the sushi, Alaskan crab legs to maybe a glass of port? Much like the buffet, I realise that the emirate’s residents are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining out. I move through the stations and come upon Peking duck. Then I decide instead of choosing a few things to try a bit of each – my taste buds will undoubtedly enjoy the international tour. And the best part is I never even had to leave Dubai to do it.