Nick Keukenmeester: Reporting From the Observation Deck

Through no fault of my own I find myself on a cruise ship floating in the Mediterranean. This may not seem too bad, but I have a phobia of big ships and am spending my days in denial, pretending I'm not here. Still, every cloud has a silver lining. Cruise ships are like All-Inclusives and the wine is poured in complimentary quantities and often has that 'complimentary' quality too.

However, nowadays most of them have a 'reserve list'. This is a list of wines that you pay extra to try. Most people would rather eat their own foot than pay extra when you can have something for free, but this is just what I'm doing. These floating cities spend their time in international waters and as such do not pay tax! I have found wines on the list here for almost half the price they are on the shelves at home. Last night I had a Louis Jadot Puligny Montrachet 2007 for US$70. The intense minerality and elegance of this wine always puts a smile on my face. Paying less than I've ever paid in Canada is even better. The night before was the Benziger Tribute 2005 for the same price. This entirely biodynamic gem from Sonoma is a wonderful wine, but the ones in my cellar cost $120 each. Now granted that is 120 Canadian dollars, but you see my point.

Of course, I am based in Ontario and we don't all pay them same amount of tax, but even folks I've met from Alberta have found some gems on this list. So if the one you love needs you to take to the seven seas, remember to bring a vintage chart to set your course and a tall glass to sail her by.

A Cheese Lover's Dream, So Close to Home

For years, my hubby and I have wanted to go on a vacation to the Charlevoix region of Quebec and this year we finally did it. It was spectacular! The scenery was breathtaking; the drive from Quebec City up to La Malbaie took us along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River through lush mountains, dotted with snow and waterfalls. Along the River we stopped in some picturesque towns such as Baie St. Paul which has a cobblestone main street lined with art galleries and small restaurants. A short ferry ride away is l'Isle-aux-Coudres, home to a watermill where you can help grind wheat and buckwheat used to make some delicious natural country breads.

As we drove upwards towards La Malbaie, herds of cattle were happily grazing in the fields. We dropped into one of the Laiteries to buy some local cheeses. In this region of Quebec most of the cheeses are non-pasteurized. The flavour is incredible! The cheese maker at the Laiterie Charlevoix explained to us in broken English that the cows graze all day along on wild grasses, mountain flowers and herbs and that is the secret ingredient to the very flavourful l”Hercule cheese they produce at their farm. At times, I totally forgot we were still in Canada. The mountains, the fresh air, the little towns, the church steeples, cobblestone streets, simple, hearty food… it felt like another world! France peut être?

We spent a few days in La Malbaie and enjoyed local cuisine freshly prepared by the owners of the many B&B’s. Nearby is the town of Saint Irene, also a great little spot to sip wine and enjoy some local cheeses in one of the many small restaurants perched on the small cliffs along the St. Lawrence. We had plenty of activities lined up to work off some of the extra calories we were consuming. We spent an afternoon canoeing and hiking at the Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie, a day cycling along the river and Malbaie and a few hour kayaking on the river, where we were lucky enough to spot a few whales. Our home in La Malbaie was Le Manoir Richelieu which is ideally located in the mountains with amazing views of the River. Nights were chilly so the hotel staff lit a huge fire on the terrace overlooking the mountains. It was just a perfect little slice of paradise.

Lingering Memories, and Flavours, of Bordeaux

Bon Vivant is excited to introduce its newest blogger, Carrie Brunet. Check out her profile and read on for her very first post.

As the summer sun sets in, I find myself longing for the French countryside of the Bordeaux region where, cooled by the breeze of the Atlantic ocean and intersected by the Gironde river, the weather stays a lot cooler than in large cities.

There’s a lot of reasons to love the Bordeaux region, which most people recognize for its wine. In fact, there are 57 appellations in Bordeaux, which means there are 57 varieties of wine (all of which are blended varieties using two or more types of grapes) produced in the region’s ‘chateaux’, including the highly-favoured Sauternes a sweet intense wine, perfectly paired with another regional specialty ‘salade landaise’ a salad topped with pine nuts smoked duck and foie gras.

And while I’m on the subject of food, it’s worth noting that Bordeaux has much more to offer than wine. Their regional cuisine, although not widely recognized like other French regions such as Alsace or Lyon, is incredibly diversified, with a strong penchant for local produce. These people were practicing the hundred-mile diet long before the Western Hemisphere caught on. And why not? Fresh oysters, caviar and sole are local delicacies. Producers in the area grow vegetables and fruit, and raise carefully controlled beef and lamb. Bazas beef is the most prized beef in France, grass fed and aged to create a melt-in-your mouth piece of meat. The Village of Bazas holds a festival each year as the cattle reach maturity. Now that sounds like a steak worth celebrating.

And of course, you can’t pass through Bordeaux without trying one of their signature treats—the canelés. Baked in copper molds, the pudding-like cakes have a brown crispy exterior with a soft custardy inside, often infused with cinnamon and other spices, along with a splash of rum. Street food at its best, local vendors sell these palm-sized treats for immediate consumption.

It’s been over a year since my last visit to Bordeaux but seeing this site, which details many of the local specialties has me hungering for my next gourmet getaway. But instead, I think I might surf the web for some copper molds, and create a little taste of Bordeaux in my own home.

Follow your nose? Why not!

Adventures are my favorite thing. I’ve had adventures on trains – from memorable subway rides into Toronto to unforgettable train trips to Munich in cars filled with Oktoberfest revelers (Interesting note: 8am is not too early to drink beer on a train when en route to Oktoberfest). And I've had my share of culinary adventures too. Moving to Toronto from a small town in northern Ontario, is in my opinion, what has helped me develop my sense of adventure the most, and especially my adventurous palette.

It started off small – believe it or not, up until I was 19, I’d never had Greek food, and it turns out that I quite enjoy the whole concept of meat on a stick. Being in Toronto, there is no shortage of international cuisine and I quickly learned that the best way to order is not to scour the menu, but to ask the server “So what’s your favorite?”. I’m always surprised at how candidly they answer and what cool new things I experience by taking their recommendations.

My bravery is most richly rewarded when I travel abroad, and if I don’t end up liking what I ate, hey – at least it makes for a good story! A few years back, I travelled to Singapore and had a short stopover in Tokyo. Not much time to do sightseeing, but there’s always time to eat! I came across this post recently that reminded me of the great seafood I had while I was there. But there is one little bite from that trip that I will always remember: my first (and only!) taste of durian fruit. We had been warned by the tour guide that the strange, rotting smell in the markets wasn’t week-old garbage but actually durian fruit, which is considered to be a delicacy in Singapore. It’s apparently a love or hate type of thing. I was on the hate side, but there are plenty of people who enjoy it. A lot of public establishments in Southeast Asia have actually banned the durian to try and keep the peace. One man’s tasty snack is enough to make another want to gag! Yup – to some people, it smells that bad!

Even though I didn’t want a second serving, I don’t regret having tried it. It’s all part of the adventure that is this big ol’ world, and I’m ready to take it on, one mysterious fruit at a time.

Good News Friday

In my office, our boss has a little tradition he likes call "good news Friday". Today's good news falls into one of my favorite categories: photos! He recently went on a fab trip to Russia and after much poking and prodding from pretty much everyone who's been envious of his trip, he posted his photos up for us to see. Yup. Envy is definitely warranted.



Nothing gets people talking about their vacation like other people's vacation pictures, and you know, if you're already travelling vicariously through your co-workers, you might as well make it a multi-destination vacation! My second stop was a cruise along the Rhine river in Europe, where another one of my colleagues vanished to last year, and it seems that whenever she gets a little stressed, she goes back there in her imagination too. I imagine that she's been there a few times because of me! But yeah, recalling afternoons spent floating along the Rhine, watching castles and fortresses that seem to the rest on clouds, that would do it for me. And how cool would it be to have shivers run down your spine as you sail by the spot where the nymph who lived in the Lorelei rock would appear and lure fishermen to their death. But the memory she's most fond of are the spectacular vineyards along the river. Never had she seen terraced vineyards until that cruise where she watched farmers tending to their crops. No wonder she's such a fan of wines from the Rhine Region! The part of her trip that I choose to fantasize about are the cheese markets. Need I say more?


If you're keen on taking a journey through Europe's rivers yourself, well I have a Friday goodie for you - there is a super deal to be had on these, and you can check it our for yourself here. There is just one condition, which, since I have already given you the goodie, you have no obligation to meet. I need to work on that. But if for any reason, Bon Vivant should lead you to a new adventure, I would love to live vicariously through you, too. So don't be shy and share! And I promise that if you do, I'll never pick anything off your plate.

Old World Wines

Lire ce billet en français

Well fellow Bon Vivants – I know you’ve been waiting for it: a post all about wine! Since this is a topic we don’t take lightly here, I thought I’d go straight to our expert on the topic – Nick Keukenmeester. Not only does Nick write feature articles about wine for our magazine, Ensemble Vacations, he’s also been in the wine industry for years and has the ultimate Bon Vivant dream job as head of Private Client Sales for Lifford Wine Agency in Toronto.

Old World Wines
By Nick Keukenmeester

I often hear people complain that there are no good value European wines, but you just have to find regions and producers that are overlooked by others to find a bargain and drink like the locals (somewhere far away).

Look for southern Italy (Puglia, Sicilia, Basilicata) and red grapes you don’t know (Negroamaro, Nero d’Avola, Aglianico). You will be amazed at the concentration and it will cost less than your standard Aussie Shiraz. Or rather than drinking Barolo, drink the wines the people of Piemonte keep for themselves. Barbera is a rich, chocolatey red grape that coats the mouth with flavour. It is much less expensive and easier to drink than the average Nebbiolo-based wine from this region. Delicate whites from the Cortese (in Gavi) or Arneis grapes can also make stunning and inexpensive wines. One region that remains terribly neglected is the Douro in Portugal, the home of port. Dry table wines are now being made from port grapes such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and many others you can’t pronounce. They are rich with fruit, have deep tannins and a great balancing acidity; worthy of the cellar or a big meal.

Lesser known areas in Spain can offer great value, too. Abadia Retuerta sits just a few miles outside the famed Ribera del Duero. It is about half the price of estates within, but their geographical misfortune is our gain. They make great Tempranillo-based wines (the noble red grape of Spain), with fruit and earthy power not associated with traditional dried-out Rioja. Neglected regions such as Toro, Rueda and Jumilla offer Monastrel (Mourvedre), Garnacha (Grenache), Tempranillo and even crisp white Verdejo wines at a fraction of their worth.

Even in France, there are excellent wines at keen prices. Look for the wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon or consider Beaujolais. This is red Burgundy, but made with the fruity and aromatic Gamay grape rather than its more admired neighbour Pinot Noir. Here grapes from great ‘cru’ such as Morgon or Fleury make wines of excellence. Elegant Beaujolais Villages can be great with or without food.

Beaujolais Villages from producers such as Louis Jadot are available in most provinces for under $20.

Les vins du Vieux Continent

Read this post in English

Chers bons vivants, je sais que vous attendiez un billet sur le vin, eh bien le voici! Puisque c’est un sujet que je ne prends pas à la légère, j’ai pensé me diriger tout de suite vers notre expert en la matière, Nick Keukenmeester. Nick écrit non seulement des articles sur les vins pour notre magazine, Ensemble Vacances, mais il est aussi dans l’industrie vinicole depuis des années et possède l’emploi dont tout bon vivant rêve, directeur des ventes aux particuliers pour Lifford Wine Agency à Toronto.

Les vins du Vieux Continent
Par Nick Keukenmeester

J’entends souvent les gens se plaindre de ne pouvoir trouver de bons vins européens à prix raisonnable. Pourtant, il suffit d’aller voir du côté des régions et des producteurs qui sont davantage négligés par les consommateurs d’ici pour parfois dénicher un excellent cru à prix avantageux.

Surveillez les productions du Sud de l’Italie, notamment des Pouilles, de la Sicile et de la Basilicate et les vins rouges que vous connaissez moins, comme le Negroamaro, le Nero d’Avola et l’Aglianico. Vous serez étonné par leur richesse de concentration, d’autant plus qu’ils vous coûteront moins cher que les traditionnels Shiraz d’Australie. Plutôt que de choisir un Barolo, essayez des vins de table du Piémont que les habitants du coin se réservent pour euxmêmes. Le Barbera est riche en texture, avec une pointe de saveur chocolatée très plaisante au palais. Il est beaucoup moins cher et se boit plus aisément que la moyenne des vins de cépage Nebbiolo qu’on trouve dans cette région. Les vins blancs délicats, produits avec le cépage Cortese (à Gavi) ou Arneis sont à la fois surprenants et très abordables.

Une région terriblement négligée est celle du Douro au Portugal d’où provient le porto. Ses vins de table sont réalisés à partir de cépages tels que le Touriga Nacional, le Tinta Roriz et plusieurs autres. Riches en fruit, leurs tanins sont profonds et leur acidité plutôt équilibrée. Vous pourrez facilement les conserver quelques années ou les boire sans plus attendre pour agrémenter un grand repas.

Certaines régions d’Espagne encore méconnues du grand public offrent également des vins d’excellente valeur. Le domaine Abadia Retuerta se situe à quelques kilomètres de la célèbre région vinicole de Ribera del Duero. Les vins qu’il produit se vendent à la moitié du prix de ceux qui proviennent des vignobles avoisinants, tout simplement parce qu’ils ne peuvent tirer profit de la renommée de la région voisine. Ils produisent pourtant d’excellents vins à partir du cépage Tempranillo, ce noble raisin typique à l’Espagne, fruité avec un côté végétal qu’on ne retrouve pas dans le classique Rioja. D’autres régions ignorées comme le Toro, le Rueda et le Jumilla produisent des vins de qualité à une fraction du prix de leur valeur réelle en utilisant des cépages comme le Monastrel (Mourvedre), le Garnacha (Grenache), le Tempranillo et même le Verdejo, donnant un vin blanc tout en fraîcheur.

Même en France, on trouve d’excellents vins à prix abordable. Recherchez les vins du Languedoc-Roussillon et ceux du Beaujolais, un vin rouge de Bourgogne fruité et aromatique qui est produit à partir du cépage Gamay, contrairement à ses voisins qui utilisent le Pinot Noir. Ici, les grands crus, comme le Morgon ou le Fleury se révèlent des vins d’exception. L’élégant Beaujolais Villages est aussi délectable à prendre avec ou sans repas.

On trouve un Beaujolais Villages de la maison Louis Jadot pour moins de 20 $ presque partout au Canada.

Olive Oil: Not Just for Cooking

As a kid, growing up in Calabria (Southern Italy), olive oil was a main cooking ingredient, but more importantly, it was most often the only medicine in our cabinet. My mom used it for everything; if we had a stomach ache she would give us a tablespoon of olive oil to drink; if we had an ear ache she would warm up a little olive oil to drop into our ears; if our skin was itchy - yup, olive oil rub.

It went beyond medicine; if she suspected that someone gave us the evil eye, she would call the neighbor’s ‘nonna’ to come by and pray to break the spell. I used to hide under the table and listen to the ritual which consisted of dropping some olive oil in a basin full of water and watch to see what patterns the oil formed and only ‘nonna’ knew for sure if the evil eye had been cast. Olive oil was our life really, a bit like Windex in the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding.
It amazed me when I arrived in Canada - wow, no olive oil anywhere! It was still a luxury in the 70’s in Toronto and the large supermarkets only carried vegetable and canola oils. So we had to go to the local Italian market to get it, because even though we were in Canada, my mom still swore by our old country remedies.

So when the olive oil craze hit Canada, most of us who are of Southern Italian descent were thrilled to finally take the oil out of the closet and share our stories with the rest of society without having them think we were nuts.

Now as I stand in the oil section of the supermarket I see people checking out labels and deciding what brand to buy and what the difference is now that we have an abundance of products. Italy is one of the top olive oil producing countries in the Mediterranean, but what most visitors who travel to the north don’t realize is that one third of all the olive oils produced in Italy comes from the South where the dry terrain produces some of the best qualities. If you are lucky enough to be traveling in Italy, Spain, Greece, Turkey and even Israel during the harvest, it’s a great time to learn a lot about olives and the process of producing the various lines of oils. All of these countries now offer a huge selection of discovery or tasting tours to really learn about this fascinating ingredient. One itinerary I came across that sounds particularly lovely is from Trafalgar Tours and takes you through Italy with stops in Chianti, Tuscany and Florence, where you can sample wines, local cheeses, meets, and, of course, olive oil!

If you have any interesting stories about olive oil of your own, post them to our comments - I'd love to hear about them!

Tequila!

Tequila has inspired many great things... The 1958 one-hit-wonder by The Champs, which I will always fondly remember as the song Pee-Wee Herman danced to in hopes of saving himself from bikers in the movie Pee-Wee's Big Adventure (and I don't want to ruin the ending, but Pee-Wee rocked the dance). I'm sure it may have inspired quite a few people to get up in a Karaoke bar to sing that same song (which by the way, is an excellent pick for a reluctant signer since the only word in the song is "tequila", unless you sing dadada-da-da's to the trumpet like I do, and well, then, you're probably not so reluctant after all). But I digress.

Tequila is the word of the day here around the office though, which I must say is a bit unusual for a Thursday afternoon. It started when I finally logged on to my Twitter account, after a long outage of the site that served to point out that I am indeed starting to develop a bit of a dependence on tweeting. I couldn't help but wish I was in Mexico when I read Karisma Hotels' tweet about the Agavero Tequila Lounge at their Azul Beach Hotel. Not only does this bar offer 30 different types of tequila, but the bar top is frozen. Now how cool is that?

The Agavero Tequila Lounge at the Azul Beach Hotel, featuring a frozen bar top

Karisma Hotels offers up these tips to sip tequila like a pro:

The traditional way is to use a tall, narrow shot glass called caballito (little horse or pony). The caballito, with its narrow base and wider mouth, is said to be modeled after the original bull’s horn, from which tequila was drunk. The bottom was so it could rest on a table. It’s a perfect size and shape. Sip it so you appreciate the full bouquet and body, then eschew the lime and the salt, or drink a chaser of Sangrita, a popular non alcoholic and spicy drink made of orange and tomato juices, and keep sipping!

Since tequila wasn't on the menu for me this afternoon, I settled for the next best thing - coffee (well, in my world anyways!). But it's not really a coffee break unless you poke your head into someone's office for a quick chat. So I stopped by our editor's desk to take a peek at what is coming up in the Fall 2009 issue of Ensemble Vacations magazine. I sooooo love sneak previews! And I really hate people who don't share, so I'll let you in on one of the article topics. You guessed it - tequila! Turns out that there is quite a bit to know, and thanks to my nosiness today, I'm starting to be a bit of a connoisseur now. But I think I still need a taste test to make it official. Perhaps a little trip to Mexico is in order? And I know just the song to load on my iPod for the flight.