The Heart of Tuscany

There is something in the air of Tuscany. I know. I am trying to avoid all those trite clichés that you read everywhere and that inspired my Dad to get Tuscan-style tiles in his living-room. To this day, I have no idea what is Tuscan about them, other than the sales pitch. Nonetheless, the place itself is magical. Some love the rolling hills, some the cuisine and some the idyllic towns that dot the landscape.

You’ll never guess what I love.
I love the wine.

The Brunellos of Montalicino and the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano have stolen all the recent fame, but my heart still belongs to Chianti and its heart, Chianti Classico. The Classico region is in the centre of Chianti and holds the greatest of its vineyards to its bosom.
Forget about the straw covered fiasco bottles.
Producers were allowed to use a little of the Canaiolo Nero grape and even the white grapes Trebbiano and Malvasia, but now the better producers are focusing entirely on the noble Sangiovese which also makes Brunello.

Fattoria di Felsina straddles the southern border of Classico where it meets Chianti Colli Senesi (one of the seven other sub-zones within Chianti). It is a hell of a drive from Livorno, but I will tell you about that next week. For me this is the standard for all things Tuscan. This beautiful estate is dotted with the requisite crumbling monastic buildings. It is large enough to incorporate vast olive groves that produce the finest olive oils I have ever tasted. They breed their own animals and grow wheat to make bread. They have game for hunting and a vegetable garden.

All of this caught my attention, but it was the 2007 Chianti Classico that won my heart. At a simple lunch, made from the estate’s produce, I shared a bottle of this wonderful wine. It was ready to drink and had every aroma and flavour I could want. Sangiovese can be as sensual and ethereal as a fine Pinot Noir, while sharing that grape’s earthiness. At the same time it is quintessentially Italian with bright acidity that reminds you of biting into a ripe tomato.

Sangiovese brings Tuscany to your home better than any tile can. Still, it is a very nice living room, Dad.

Fattoria di Fèlsina,
Via del Chianti 101
53019 - Castelnuovo Berardegna, Siena
Tel + 39 0577 355117
Fax + 39 0577 355651
Mail: info@felsina.it