Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Barcelona’s Gothic Gem- the Barri Gotic

Wandering the crooked, cobblestone-lined streets of Barcelona’s beautiful Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) leaves me feeling like a lucky Alice In Wonderland. As light streams through the narrow passageways, this fantasy-like neighbourhood that used to be a Roman town, beckons the weary traveler with the scent of freshly baked bread, cakes and chocolates.

But I’m in the mood for dinner, so I follow my nose to a unique restaurant concept called Origen 99.9% - a tapas bar that uses the aforementioned percentage of local Catalan ingredients in their menu. Proudly local and freshly seasonal, your dinner might include a torrada (olive oil toasted baguette-like bread) with a side of historically accurate almondroc. This is a fabulous boiled egg and garlic spread made according to a 14th century recipe. It doesn’t sound like much, but spread on that toasted-to-perfection, freshly-baked bread, I guarantee you, almondroc will become a new favourite. I wash that down with a glass of local Cabernet Sauvignon and enjoy a side of sopa de bolets- the most earthy, sensual mushroom-rich soup I’ve ever savoured.

If your waiter, like mine, is feeling generous and offers you a glass of sweet Spanish Muscatel dessert wine, graciously accept! You’ll be happy you did! Then walk over to Caelum for a heavenly dessert made by the practiced hands of Spanish nuns and monks. From centuries-old marzipan filled treats, liquor-soaked apple cake, to dried figs dipped in chocolate, you’ll find a celestial array for your sweet tooth. Don’t forget to take a look downstairs. The dark, cavernous space used to be a medieval Jewish bathhouse- but of course that didn’t stop two enamoured locals from using it as their kissing corner. What would the nuns say?

The Barri Gotic was home and inspiration to Picasso as well as local artist Joan Miró whose sculptures and artistic legacies can be appreciated throughout this sea-side city. I can see why the artists would have chosen the Barri Gotic- at times dark and mysterious, at others sunny and bright- but always welcoming and infinitely delectable.

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia. From top to bottom: A few treats from Caelum including a chocolate dipped fig, apple tart with nuts and a floral elixir; The lovely exterior of Caelum; A sculpture by Joan Miro in Barcelona.

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