“New Scotland”- Canada’s New Culinary Hot Spot in the Making!

There’s something special about the fresh, salt-tinged air in Halifax, the deep blue of the Atlantic and the sunny disposition of people who live in a province named “New Scotland.” Maybe it’s something in the air that makes the people here just that much more hospitable than most of their Canadian counterparts. Maybe it’s the abundant seafood that they get to feast on whenever the mood strikes (seafood is supposed to be an aphrodisiac after all!). Or maybe it’s that on the eastern shores of such a massive country like Canada, the people who call Halifax home have found their own Shangri-La.

Whatever the reason, one thing is certain- this province is as beautiful as is the bounty of their tables. On a recent visit, we ate at the charming and cozy Fid Resto in downtown Halifax where owner/chef Dennis Johnston pays homage to the region’s long-lasting love affair with fresh fish and all things locally sourced. Don’t miss the warm local wild mushroom tart with Fox Hill aged cheddar (from nearby Annapolis Valley) or the perfectly seared Atlantic Halibut with roasted vegetables, organic carrots, parsnips and Brussels sprouts. Both say “proudly Nova Scotian” prepared by a chef who loves this province more than most.

At Fid, we enjoyed Gaspereau Vineyard’s 2008 Seyval Blanc- a crisp, clean and fresh wine produced by Gina Haverstock in the picturesque Annapolis Valley. A mere hour and change drive outside of Halifax, and you’re in a bucolic, gently rolling pastoral setting where local food artisans and an entire wine industry have set up shop. From lamb, cattle, fruits and vegetables, to Gaspereau Vineyard and several other wineries (including Benjamin Bridge that is working on a comprehensive “Champaign” method sparkling wine program), the Annapolis Valley is a culinary force in the making.

No stop to the valley would be complete without a visit to Tempest World Cuisine in Wolfville helmed by slow food proponent and one of the province’s celebrity chefs, Michael Howell. Take his perfectly caramelized Mahone Bay scallops with organic beets and Rancher Acres goat cheese finished in a beet beurre blanc – this was a beautifully balanced flavour sensation that typifies Howell’s cooking. Paired with the valley’s L’Acadie Vineyards L’Acadie Star (07), the wine’s citrus/grapefruit notes played off perfectly against the dish.

Wine route tours, lovingly restored historic inns that belonged to titans of the boating industry, top notch cuisine showcasing local product and miles of pristine views await the hungry traveler to Nova Scotia. I’ve been twice and every time I go, I discover a new gem and am always amazed by the hospitality locals extend to those of us “from away.” This is my kind of province and I’ve only ever been in winter. I can only imagine what the Atlantic looks like shimmering in the mid-day summer sun and what a lobster broil would taste like by the water’s edge!

Tasting the World in Dubai

Bistro Madeleine is bustling on a weekday afternoon. Smart suited businessmen and ladies of leisure chat while dining on classic French classics of steak frites and cassoulet. With chequered table cloths, soft French music playing and a rib-sticking Croque Monsieur in front of me; my mind believes, for all aesthetic purposes, that I’m in a chic Parisian bistro. Then I look outside and see the silhouette of the Burj Al Arab, the word’s tallest building in the distance and snap back to reality. I’m in the middle of the desert at the InterContinental Dubai Festival City in the United Arab Emirates.

But then this cosmopolitan emirate is full of surprises. With a melting pot of cultures living here, it was only natural that the food scene would gain a more global flavour. From tiny family-run eateries to international restaurant chains like California Pizza Kitchen and Michelin-starred fare of Nobu and Gordon Ramsay, residents are quite literally offered the world on a plate…and to fit every budget. So whether you’re savouring some shish tawouk from a street vendor or grabbing cupcakes from Magnolia Bakery at Bloomingdale’s, there’s always time – and plenty of choice – to balance both local and international range of flavours.

Ask anyone what is the cheapest and most ubiquitous neighbourhood favourite is and most will recommend the Lebanese shawarma. This is fast food, Middle Eastern style and is a treat to watch as it’s prepared. The vendor gently shaves off pieces of chicken or mutton from a giant skewer before tucking it into a pita laced with a garlicky mayo-like spread, along with fries and a couple of pickles. For vegetarians, the herbed chickpea fritters, falafel, are substituted. Both rolled up like a fat cigar; make a perfect meal on-the-go. Add some hummus and tabbouleh on the side and you have meal that is reminiscent of many homes in the Levant.

An edible trip to the subcontinent is also extremely easy and Indian cuisine is one that is widely represented. Butter chicken, biryanis, Bombay street food – the list is endless. A breakfast favourite with many Indian expats is the rice crepe from the south called a dosa that’s stuffed with turmeric-steeped potatoes served with fresh coconut-based sauces called chutneys. On weekends, expect a long wait at restaurants like Saravanaa Bhavan that specialise in this favourite. Wash it down with a cup of frothy filter coffee that errs on the sweet side but is strong enough to keep you going for the day.

The Dubai institution most expatriates look forward to however, and one that is recommended for visitors, is the Friday Brunch, when the weekend officially begins. One of the best destinations is Spectrum on One restaurant at the Fairmont Dubai, which serves champagne on tap and a buffet that’s a microcosm of the world’s cuisines, much like its clientele. From Thailand, to Europe and China, eight live kitchens churn out a tantalizing array of food that includes freshly shucked oysters and a range of cheeses.

For the three hours that the brunch is open I realise it’s like a taking a whirlwind trip around the world. Should I have the sushi, Alaskan crab legs to maybe a glass of port? Much like the buffet, I realise that the emirate’s residents are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining out. I move through the stations and come upon Peking duck. Then I decide instead of choosing a few things to try a bit of each – my taste buds will undoubtedly enjoy the international tour. And the best part is I never even had to leave Dubai to do it.

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro.

O.K. I’m paraphrasing but no one can argue that these famous digestivos of Italy pack a punch.

Amaro is a bitter liqueur that normally combines a series of herbs to create a unique flavour. The recipes are fiercely guarded and each town and village has its preferred recipe. Basically, anyone who can make wine, can distill grappa. Anyone who has a grappa has probably experimented with infusing local herbs to make an amaro. They settle the stomach, invigorate the nerves and calm the mind. I have no medical evidence for any of these claims.

When in Italy, amaro is normally served by itself in a liqueur glass. That having been said, some people have it in their coffee. I have even had amaro poured into my finished espresso cup and been told to add a cube of sugar. The point is, like all drinks in Italy, amaro is served in relation to the meal. Aperitivi give you an appetite and digestivi help you digest. Easy.

Even if the local amaro is not unique and obscure it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t indulge. There is a reason that Fernet Branca is so popular. I know you are thinking of that bottle at the local bar that is gathering dust and hasn’t seen action for several years. Well, you don’t live in Verona, do you? That same bottle wouldn’t last one night in a reasonably busy Italian bar. Don’t take my word for it. Take a look across the counter next time you’re in Rome. Actually, as everyone will be staring at the tourist leaning across the bar, you had better order one while you are at it.

True story. Well, mainly true.

The first time I tried amaro I thought someone was trying to poison me. I was young and not a heavy drinker. Neither of these problems assail me now. I was with a ‘friend’ who was telling us an old family story. (It turned out to be the plot to ‘Arsenic and Old Lace’). Anyway he lost a bet or something and had to buy the next round. He came back with a round of drinks without divulging the contents of our glasses. We were told to ‘down them in one sip’ and being young, we readily complied. You are not meant to ‘shoot’ Fernet Branca! We were convinced it was arsenic until our friend’s convulsions of laughter made it clear that it was just another part of the big, wide world. Don’t be like me. Have your first amaro intentionally!

Sipping Tea on the Ceylon Tea Trails

It’s 7am in Sri Lanka’s Bogawantalawa Valley, hours away from the capital city Colombo. I slip out of my room at the Ceylon Tea Trails’ Tienstin Bungalow and take a seat on patio. Before me lies a sea of green – tea fields enveloped in a thick cloud of mist. My only accompaniment is a cup of freshly brewed Ceylon tea with a slice of lemon and birdsong. As I take my first sip, I think about the magical sway this beverage has on tea aficionados across the world.

A trip here brings you into the heart of tea country where rolling hills of fresh tea form a picturesque backdrop against the azure sky. Ironically, in the 1800s Sri Lanka was initially a coffee growing nation – until the crops were wiped out by a fungus. As a substitute for coffee, the former British colonial rulers planted the humble tea crop. Today, more than 400,000 acres stand testament to that foresight and this ‘green gold’ remains one of the country’s most famed exports.

Slipping into the past is easy at the Ceylon Tea Trails bungalows that are owned by the local Dilmah Tea Company. Four refurbished colonial bungalows complete with stately dining rooms and manicured gardens offer visitors a luxurious stay reminiscent of the tea planter’s lifestyle. But that’s not what brings me here. It’s their epicurean vacations that draws inspiration from garden fresh produce in their own backyard.

Keen to try a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast I opt for starting the day with a riot of spices – another of the country’s main exports. Feathery string hoppers (rice pancakes) generously soak up the curry swimming with pieces of potato. The fish curry has a real kick that’s soothed by the sweet coconut in the kiribath (milk rice). The fragrant spread is accompanied by a juicy coconut sambol redolent of chilli and, of course, a pot of freshly brewed Ceylon Supreme Blend.

Surrounded by verdant tea plants, the day is spent leisurely strolling or biking through the serpentine paths. As I stop for a picnic along the way, I think I could get used to this pace of life. Next stop is a tour with the resident tea planter along Dilmah’s trails and I watch tea being hand picked, then fermented and packaged using century old artisanal methods in the factory. The tour aptly ends with a tea tasting, where I learn the intricacies of its flavours and leave feeling like a bit of a connoisseur.

Back at the bungalow I’m already looking forward to dinner – a tea-infused meal using Dilmah’s flavoured and single estate teas. My first course is a beetroot and orange salad dressed in a vinaigrette made with Spicy Berry tea. It’s followed by a succulent roast chicken anointed in a gravy of Yatta Watte (low-grown tea). Then comes the meal’s decadent sweet ending – a modern tiramisu with velvety layers of Orange Pekoe scented cream. My opinion about tea was revolutionized. It was no more just a soothing beverage, but rather, a gourmet ingredient that can hold its own.

As I sipped my post-dinner cup of tea infused with a stick of cinnamon, I couldn’t help but silently thank the former colonial rulers. Languorous meals, a locavore approach to eating, fresh air and a slower pace of life – the tea planters knew what they were doing. Little wonder Ceylon Tea Trails has been listed as Sri Lanka’s first Relias&Chateaux Resort. So the next time I need to escape, I’m returning for a trip back in time and a cuppa at this tea lover’s paradise.

Savouring the Culinary Renaissance of Ottawa

The night before I join Paola St-Georges on her “Foods of the ByWard Market Tour” in this nation’s capital, we dine at local hot spot Navarra. We’re joined by local food bloggers Don and Jen, the duo behind the city’s “Foodie Prints” blog where they discuss and review everything local and edible. Navarra is a sliver of Spain as interpreted through the trained palate of Chef René Rodriguez. Fiery reds, sleek banquettes and waiters who look like hot-blooded Flamenco dancers choreograph their way through dinner service. The food is as hot, figuratively, hence why it’s recognized by Ottawa Magazine as one of the city’s Top Ten tables.

Over a platter of sliced Iberico ham, I ask Paola how she got the idea of creating and giving food tours in Ottawa. She smiles saying, “If I had said ‘let’s explore the food scene here’ 10 years ago, you might have laughed. I actually got the idea from Don. I read an article he recommended about New York's famous food tours and I was captivated by the idea. I also realized that Ottawa's food scene was ready for these tours too.”

Before you scoff at the notion, let me pre-empt hasty judgments by saying that the last time I was in Ottawa, in the late 90s, that city’s food scene didn’t resemble this version in the least. Paola explains this saying, “The last 10-15 years has seen the emergence of a truly local, thriving food scene here. Chefs have opened their own restaurants and made it a priority to use local, seasonal ingredients while bringing their own style to dishes they serve,” adding, “Local farmers, assisted by organizations such as Savour Ottawa, have found new, enthusiastic restaurant clients. The public has shown an ever-increasing level of interest in all things food and is now buzzing about everything from new local cheeses to the latest "must-visit" restaurant.” The result of this new-found vigour is C’est Bon Cooking which includes classes helmed by Chef Andrée Riffou and tours like the one I’m about to head out on.

We start mid-morning the next day, with Paola leading the way commencing at the eponymous Metropolitain Brasserie- one of the most frequented spots for politicians and pundits during “Hill Hour.” Housing the city’s largest raw oyster bar, it’s got the requisite French café tables, chairs, and menu including crisp frites served with a side of aioli mayo. Poli sci nerds can be found gawking at their legislative heroes and heroines on any given afternoon.

We head around the corner to marvel at the Château Laurier where famed photographer Yousuf Karsh snapped the iconic image of Winston Churchill- the scowl comes from having grabbed Churchill’s cigar from his mouth!

Sumptuous afternoon tea at Zoe’s Lounge still reigns supreme at the Château. But it’s the beautiful, hidden courtyards near the market that captivate and transport me to a little French town- each one a rabbit’s warren of treasures including Planet Coffee and the Black Tomato café.

Along the way, we sip, savour and chat to chefs, shop owners, ByWard Market fruit and vegetable merchants and butchers- all proudly displaying organic produce or prized cuts from heritage breeds. I make a mental note of stopping by La Bottega Nicastro after the tour to shop at my leisure after spotting award-winning Ottawa valley cheddars. We end our tour at Le Boulanger Français where hot butter croissants await.

As Paola points out, within Ottawa city limits, there are a whopping 1267 farms- everything they need to have a flourishing food scene literally located inside the city’s urban boundary. “It's a wonder it took so long to develop!” says Paola. But now that the secret’s out and farmers, chefs and shop owners alike are getting an economic shot in the pocket book by engaged food-lovers, the future looks deliciously bright for Ottawa. And it’s about time!

Bespoke Winemaking with Rootstocks in Niagara

On a warm, early fall afternoon, my husband and I drive to some of the most scenic land in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario- the Twenty Mile Bench. It’s here that David Johnson’s Featherstone Estate Winery sits atop rich, clay soils where he grows his various varietals on twenty pristine acres. Johnson is also the resident winemaker for an intriguing new winemaking experience called Rootstocks.

Rootstocks is the brainchild of Andrew and Christina Brooks, hospitality industry professionals , sommeliers and owners of Crush on Niagara Wine Tours. Their Rootstock light bulb moment struck when the former Calgarians kept hearing overworked urbanites say “You are living my dream life.” Tired, stressed-out city dwellers would see properties like Featherstone, and the vineyard Brooks and his wife planted and they would long to somehow be a part of that.

“I thought to myself ‘what if you could have a piece of the wine country lifestyle without quitting your day job?’” says Andrew. And so, the vine to bottle concept of Rootstocks where members get a chance to partake in the winemaking experience was born and bottled. Viticultural practices and winemaking techniques are overseen by Johnson and his Featherstone Estate team and grapes are sourced from a 10 acre site in the nearby Lincoln Lakeshore DVA. The Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Riesling and Chardonnay.
We drive up to the grape-growing property in time for the sun to turn a mellow yellow. Johnson talks to us about the soil and drainage in this particular part of the escarpment and we try fresh pinot grapes straight off the vine. With Andrew’s help, I learn the art of the sabrage- where you take a long knife (originally a sabre) and literally slice the top of a champagne bottle in one fell swoosh! According to Brooks, my technique was on the money: a clean, glass round slice with the cork top still embedded the proof. I happily drank a glass of Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut to that!

Members who decide to become a part of their own, bespoke winemaking experience are a lucky bunch. They’ll get to prune their own vines (if they wish), work with experts on their wine’s lab analysis, blend, fruit process, label design- all without quitting their day jobs. They will in fact become their own land and wine barons- if even for a vintage (15-18 months). Vineyard activities and wine production begins this year, but interested members can join at any point in the year.
We end the day back at Featherstone where under the cool canopy of a vine-lined trellis we’re treated to Brook’s first two viniferous efforts: Mia 2007 Old Vines Riesling and Redhead 2004. These pair beautifully with locally procured treats, including Mario Pingue’s prosciutto, cheeses and flat breads from The Good Earth Cooking School and Winery. As we say goodbye with a bottle of Featherstone’s Onyx 2007 under our arm, we can see how harried urbanites would give their kingdom for a barrel of wine that whispers “well done you!” Talk about taking bragging rights to a whole new, wine-soaked level!

Liquid History

My wife and I are planning our first return to the UK in nearly four years and we can’t wait. The only difference is that this time we are bringing a 2 ½ year old. You might think that this would limit our enjoyment and our alcohol consumption. Fear not!

I will continue my quest to find the perfect British pub.

The problem is that no matter how great my current pub is, I never know if there is something even better around the corner.

What is the perfect pub? I’m glad you asked.

First it has to have something really good on tap. This must be a proper British beer and not any of that lager rubbish. I want something like and Adnam’s Broadside or a Shepherd Neame Spitfire Ale or a cask-ale from a good local brewery. It should have a pretty beer garden and a cozy interior with dark wood and an open fireplace for winter. The grub should be good, but not too fancy. (You don’t want yuppies coming in). No gaming machines, please, and not too noisy, but I want friendly bar staff and a pub landlord who takes a bit of pride in his place. Last but not least, I like my pub to have a bit of history. Now most pubs that fit the bill will be found outside of major cities in little villages that haven’t changed for generations. The Blue Anchor (East Aberthaw, Wales) is a favourite of mine and has been going since 1380 with a thatched roof and low ceilings.

However, there are some great pubs in London and if you are game, I am going to send you for a walk along the Thames at Rotherhithe and Wapping.

In a small room in the Angel (101 Bermondsey Wall East) Captain Cook planned his voyage to the new world. There are no real ales here, but a great view. Keep walking east.

The Mayflower (117 Rotherhithe Street) is where the Pilgrim Fathers set sail from in 1620 and the pub was renamed in honour of their ship. This pub has a little jetty to enjoy a pint with a perfect Thames view. Now you need to hop on the tube at Rotherhithe and go one stop north (under the Thames) to Wapping.

Keep heading East to the Prospect of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall). It is one of London’s oldest pubs and business has been done on this site since the 1500s. All of these pubs have a great Thames view and offer liquid history.

See you there. I’ll be the one pushing the stroller.

www.blueanchoraberthaw.com

A Festival for Every Flavour in Italia

October offers a bounty of food festivals throughout la bella Italia. Whether your palate prefers savoury or sweet, there’s something for every taste and proclivity.

Here are some of Bon Vivant’s Preferred Picks:

Alba International White Truffle Fair
This yearly ode to the “superior” white truffle takes place this year from October 9 to November 14th in the historic centre (or “centro storico”) of Alba, Italy. Truffle Markets run every Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 8pm to ensure you get your fair share of the fragrant tuber. Some of the world’s most celebrated chefs and their legion of followers descend upon Alba to fete the Tuber Magnatum Pico (aka white truffles). At £1600 per kilo (or $2500 USD per pound), these are considered the very best in the world and are sought after with much gusto. You may recall that in 2005, an anonymous truffle aficionado paid $112, 000.00 USD for a 2.5 pound white truffle. This yearly event also features an invitation only truffle auction, a fair and a gastro-tourist’s excuse to explore Piedmontese cuisine. White truffles grow by the roots of hazelnut and oak trees. They are characterized by a distinct musky flavour known to flavour a Piedmontese butter sauce, risotto, upscale omlettes and just about anything other dish to which you want to lend an air of sophistication.

Boccaccesca Food and Wine Festival
From October 2-10, the picturesque Tuscan town of Certaldo will play host to this epicurean delight. From spiced meats, cheeses, local olive oils, freshly baked breads, preserves and other local specialties, hungry travelers and locals alike delight in this yearly festival.
Certaldo celebrates everything local with particular emphasis on culinary traditions over two weekends with food stalls, tastings, cooking classes, chef competitions and workshops set up in courtyards, gardens and along the town streets. The narrow, medieval thoroughfares are happily filled with the stands of craftsmen and women from every part of Tuscany.
The festival runs Friday and Saturday evening from 6 pm to 9 pm, and Sunday from 11 am to 9 pm. The town of Certaldo can be reached by train or bus on the Florence-Siena train line, and a short cable car ride takes visitors to the upper town of Boccaccesca, the medieval town of Giovanni Boccaccio. There’s a 5 Euro entrance Fee on Saturday and Sunday, but Fridays are free. An extra 3 Euro will buy you a complimentary glass of local vino.

Eurochocolate:
If you dream in chocolate, then Eurochocolate, being held this October 15 to 24 in Perugia, will be sure to please any sweet tooth! Perugia, as you may know, is home to the chocolate and hazelnut clusters devoured the world over and known as Bacio Perugina (bacio means kiss in Italian).

There’s no entrance fee to this Willy Wonka chocolate-lover’s delight which runs from 9am-8pm daily (except Saturday which goes until 11pm). Chocolate competitions, sculpture making, tastings (of course!), and Eurochocolate World which takes a look at the socio-economic issues of chocolate production around the globe are all on offer. Gluttons be warned- there’s a new take on Tiramisu called Tiramigiu (pull me up) that’s sure to tempt your taste buds. Held at the Sala del Cerp della Rocca Paolina in Perugia.

Bar Jules - Chef Jessica Boncutter’s Cali-French Bistro

Culinary travelers believe me when I tell you that you’ll want to remember this name: Jessica Boncutter. A veteran of London’s fabled River Café (as is famous River Cafe alum Jamie Oliver), Boncutter cut her culinary teeth at the age of 19 when she began cooking for Judy Rodgers in San Francisco’s quintessential Californian eatery, Zuni Café.

Her new endeavour, Bar Jules, has just been named as one of Bon Appetit magazine’s “Top Ten New Restaurants” so when we make our way over there for lunch one mid-week day, we know we’re in for something special.
Located in San Francisco’s funky Hayes Valley neighbourhood, Bar Jules is a pretty, jewel-toned boîte that prides itself on offering seasonal, local fare including sustainable proteins. Menu options change daily, are well honed and offered up on two blackboards in the 38 seat dining room. Oh and the name? Boncutter named her bistro after her doggy, Jules. Bien sûr!

Since we arrived in San Francisco, Mario has been on the prowl for the perfect burger and we figure with Boncutter’s pedigree, we’ve got a good chance we’re going to find it at here. And lucky us, because that day, we see that a Marin Sun Farms beef burger is on the menu with a “little salad” served on the side. Would monsieur like some Gruyere cheese melted on top of that? Why, yes, he would!

Sandwiched in between two grilled, crusty pieces of local Acme Bakery’s “Levain” bread, one bite tells us that this is no average-joe bistro burger. “This has to be grass fed beef!” I exclaim to Mario who nods in agreement. The depth of flavour, the deep, intense meatiness of it all boldly proclaims- beef the way it’s meant to taste. I ask our efficient server who replies, “Yes! All of Marin Sun Farm’s beef is grass fed from start to finish.” And their sustainable practices also help make them a San Francisco restaurant industry favourite. Lucky, lucky diners!

I order the preserved albacore tuna sandwich with piquillo peppers, anchovy, arugula and hard cooked egg. Fresh and summery- it’s the perfect sandwich for a sunny day. But still, I find myself looking over at Mario and his juicy burger from time to time longingly- and I don’t even eat much red meat! Maybe if the beef I did eat was grass fed I would eat a bit more. That bite brought back memories of my South American childhood ensconced in two rustic pieces of bread. That alone is worth the trip to Bar Jules anytime!

Saying Si to CONTIGO in San Francisco

San Franciscans are a blessed lot. Surrounded by the fertile lands of Sonoma, Napa and every valley in between, the denizens of this city have year-round access to fresh produce of every stripe that would make any food lover kale-green with envy. So when I heard that there was a Catalan-style restaurant called Contigo (with you in Spanish) on the edge of Noe Valley serving up pintxos (aka tapas) using local produce, I said Si in a hurry!
I was joined by Mario (my husband), and locals/good pals Robyn and Maricar. Our four-top meant we were enough to order a variety of things from the well-composed menu and not get overly-stuffed. We started with the Lomo Iberico de Bellota “Pata Negra” – Spain’s famous acorn-fed, black hoofed pigs. We were served slivers of pork loin (hence the lomo part of the description) that are paprika-rubbed lending a mysterious, smokey note that we all liked. We opted for some Pa Amb Tomaquet- Catalan’s favourite snack: toasted bread with tomato pulp and olive oil to accompany our starter as well as a glass of 2009 Bizkaiko Txakolina – a fresh white that’s hard to find in Toronto.
The Txakoli wine was the perfect match for our local calamars a la planxa- flat top grilled calamari with Spanish padrón peppers and a swipe of Romesco sauce. This was by far my favourite dish of the night. Clean, simple and bursting with flavour- my kind of eating! A roasted beet, garlic chip, mint and greens salad dressed with an aged sherry vinagreta served as a side, as did a plate of Catalan-style sautéed chard with roasted almonds, golden raisins and garlic. Everyone wanted to sample the wood oven roasted local sardine and avocado toasts, so we ordered some and devoured the two-bite morsels. Topped with picked red onion rounds, this was creamy, rich and fresh.
Cali-Spanish? You bet! I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the two “postres” or desserts we inhaled. Chocolate Caliente- or hot chocolate at Contigo is rich and thick like I’ve enjoyed in Barcelona. On its own, it’s dessert-worthy but we up the ante by ordering them with churros (the breakfast of choice in Spain- my kinda country!). And we spot a house-made “helado” (ice cream) infused with none other than the city’s fabled Blue Bottle coffee- so we grab some of that too, topped with a warm chocolate sauce that will never be forgotten and a lengua de gato cookie (like a thick tuile). I still hanker for some of that helado smothered in that opulent chocolate sauce. It was more like a warm, sexy ganache from the right side of the tracks- good looking and dressed to kill. Sigh…
On a Thursday night at 8pm, Contigo was jam-packed. Locals in this town appreciate the changing roster of edible jewels whose provenance you can discern on the back of the menu. Area farmers, ranchers, fishermen, dairy producers and artisanal craftspeople all get a shout out. Owners Brett Emerson and Elan Drucker have created what they call a “Love letter to Barcelona.” Whimsical, intriguing and well-designed, Contigo can induce a Spanish crush on even the most jaded, big-city diner!

TIP: Call ahead for reservations- this place is popular with good reason!

Scooping Up San Francisco

Rain, fog or shine, San Franciscans appreciate a good scoop. No matter what the unpredictable San Franciscan weather may bring, this city’s citizens will patiently wait in a half hour plus line up for a lick of their favourite ice cream.
The Mission district seems to have the ice cream market all scooped up. Down the block from Tartine, Bi-Rite Creamery has been creating premium gourmet flavours using local Straus Family Farms’ milk and local organic ingredients in every ice cream. At least half a dozen people- both locals and travelers, tell me the “can’t miss” flavour here is salted caramel. I do a little sleuthing of my own and stumble upon ice cream guru and pastry chef David Lebovitz’s blog where he extols the virtues of Bi-Rite’s Mint Chip, informing me that organic mint oil and quality chocolate shards go into every batch.
It’s decided, Mario and I order one of each. We walk straight in and order at 11:05am. This is important to note only because the shop opens at 11am and there’s an almost perpetual lineup outside the door at all times, except at the very start of the day. I know, it’s a little early for ice cream, but we’re here to taste test the best and if that means taking one for the team, then we’re game.
Mario b-lines it for the salted caramel, I grab the mint chip and we sit down to compare flavours. Mario’s has the OMG factor- intense, caramelized sugar, perfectly creamy and balanced thanks to the salt. The Mint Chip is the embodiment of a good mint chip, but compared to the salted caramel, the flavour pales in comparison.
Out of journalistic integrity, I ask the affable chap behind the counter if I can try a teaspoonful of the summer-only flavour Balsamic Strawberry and the intriguingly named Ricanela. The strawberry is deft and subtle, but it’s the Ricanela- with its soft cinnamon notes and Mexican horchata (a rice and almond milk beverage) flavour swirled with flecks of Snickerdoodle candy that captures our taste buds. It’s like a Mexican birthday cake in every lick- si por favor!
Several blocks away, pastry chef Jake Godby can be found whipping up a variety of wild and wonderful flavours at his Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream shop. His simple royal blue and white shop with its fantastical double-headed cow logo has recently been written up in the New York Times for its more adult-focused flavours. Boccalone Prosciutto ice cream, Thai Chili Lime sorbet, and “Secret Breakfast” (Bourbon and corn flakes) are some of the unique flavours on offer.
We sit down to a scoop of Secret Breakfast, McEvoy Olive Oil, and Honey and Thyme ice cream. Next to us are two Manhattanites who find themselves in the largely Mexican Mission neighbourhood with brimming bowls of whimsical flavours. I ask them how they’re enjoying their scoops, “This is really very good quality ice cream,” says the lady in question who adds, “we get just about everything in New York City but we don’t quite have ice cream like this!” Her husband nods in agreement.
The hands-down favourite in our bowls is the Secret Breakfast- the bourbon adding a sophisticated, toffee like backdrop to the cornflake crunch ensconced in a creamy cloud. Humphry Slocombe’s ice cream can also be enjoyed in a Blue Bottle Affogato (espresso with a scoop of ice cream) at the Ferry Market Plaza Building and at Contigo in Noe Valley where the flavour is Blue Bottle Ice Cream served with a hot chocolate ganache and a crisp tuille. Good thing there are enough steep streets to keep the cardio levels up and the ice cream quotient in check!

San Francisco’s Most Delectable Petit Dejeuner

I can’t think of a more delectable way to start the day in San Francisco than by heading over to Tartine Bakery & Café in the Mission District for a bon petit dejeuner. As my husband Mario and I walk toward an unassuming café on the corner of Guerrero and 18th, the scent of freshly baked pastries ensconced in melted chocolate and butter helps lift the city’s morning fog.

Inside, the simple, white room is already people-packed at 9:20am. We wait in a line that spills out on to the street and ogle the perfectly curated array of tempting treats. There’s frangipane, pain au chocolat, cake aux olives (a savoury loaf of gruyere cheese, olive slivers, Niman Ranch ham pieces and rosemary), bread pudding with fresh, seasonal fruit, “Breakfast Buns” made with orange sugar, éclairs (for the decadent) and the best black pepper and thyme gougeres (large, golden glorious cheese puffs). And that’s just for starters. We order a round of café au lait beverages to accompany our selections and feel as if we’re on the Left Bank.

We’re joined by Olga Katsnelson – a San Francisco-based food publicist who knows something about what’s wallet-worthy food-wise in the city. At her behest, Texas-born, Culinary Institute of America trained Chad Robertson stops by to say hello. Chad and his wife Elisabeth Prueitt are the “quality obsessed” owners (as Olga would say), of Tartine. We learn that he worked in Burgundy, France for years, along with Elisabeth before returning to the US to put into practice all that they’ve learned. San Franciscans are appreciative patrons.

“For a city of 800,000, seems to me like you lot dine out more than most,” I remark to Olga. She nods in agreement- “Yes,” she replies, “this is a city that takes its food seriously!”

Mario asks Olga why, with the myriad choices available in town, this is possibly the most beloved French pastry shop in San Francisco. She says, “because they do everything the hard way. There are no short cuts and you can taste it.” She’s dead-on. My quiche, made using market-fresh, organic tomatoes, peppers, herbs and crème fraiche is the best I’ve ever had. And bless their hearts- the staff here have the good sense to oven warm their quiche (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had my order micro-waved resulting in a soggy, almost water-logged disgusting crust).We wait until 10am at which point Mario gets his wish- an open faced Croque Monsieur sandwich with Niman Ranch ham, gruyere and tomato slices over the bakery’s own rustic, crumb-perfect bread.

By the time we leave, there’s a new wave of patrons lining up for their mid-morning snacks and coffees. Olga tells us that by 5pm, when Chad and Elisabeth put out their daily freshly baked bread selections in time for dinner, they will be sold out in 15 minutes. It’s no wonder the dynamic duo behind Tartine have won a spate of awards. Their newest book, “ Tartine Bread” is due out this year- so if you’re a bread aficionado, keep your eyes out. It will be a tasty tome.