Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Not your ordinary fruitcake

I know it’s only November, but I have a confession to make. I’m a closet Christmas-a-holic.

That’s right. I’m not the type that breaks out the office Christmas décor November 1, but I will listen to Christmas carols when I’m alone at home, or in the car, and I’m secretly hoping my husband will bend his rule about not putting up the tree until Dec. 1.

The holidays are a foodie’s dream come true. Any indulgence is fair game at this time of year, and it’s also a time to embrace food from different cultures as we all seem to agree that regardless of religious affiliation, there is something to celebrate as the end of the year draws closer.

One Christmas tradition that seems to run through the Caribbean and has now become part of my family rituals in Black Cake. Similar in some ways to Fruit Cake that we see in North America, Black Cake is made of dried and candied fruit, eggs, butter and flour, and a lot of alcohol. Usually around this time of year, the soaking of the dried fruit begins as we anticipate the making of this holiday treat.

My Antiguan mother-in-law uses sherry for her Black Cake, which we served up at as a parting gift to our wedding guests earlier this year. However, each family and each island does their cake a little different, and in most parts, rum is the alcohol of choice for the cake, at least in the finishing stage. I dare you to find a Jamaican who thinks otherwise.

The soaking goes on for weeks, and months even. And then about a week before Christmas, the rest of the ingredients are added to the minced up fruit and Black Cake emerges from the oven, but it’s still not ready yet.

It has to be dampened with more alcohol, until Christmas. This is called "wetting the cake." Each day, the cake is taken out of its foil and plastic wrapping and a small amount of alcohol is poured over the cake, then it is flipped and more alcohol is poured over the bottom. It is then covered again, and put back into the refrigerator awaiting its next wetting. While in North America, the gift of fruit cake is often dreaded, the gift of Black Cake is a sign of great affection. The expense and work that goes into such a cake lets the recipient know just how special they are.

And if you get the chance to sample black cake while in the Caribbean you’ll taste not only the local flavour, but you’ll sample a little of their soul too.

My mother-in-law is the keeper of our family recipe, but the New York Times printed one that's pretty good.

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