Bologna à la Biba

I remember watching Biba Caggiano on TV in rapt fascination. There she was, whipping up regional, Italian dishes like gnocchi before anyone could even say the word, or biscotti when the twice-baked cookies were then unheard of here in Canada. I loved her lilting voice, her ease in the kitchen and how drool-inducing her dishes always looked. As a teen watching this from a living room in Hamilton, Ontario, I never in a thousand years imagined I’d one day be able to call the much-lauded chef up and say, “So, when I’m in Bologna, where should I go eat?”

One of the Grande Dames of Italian cookery residing in the United States today (she still helms the iconic Biba Restaurant in Sacramento, CA), Biba Caggiano is one of the best Italian exports North America ever received. She appeared as one of our profile subjects on the bio doc series, “At the Table With…” which is why I was lucky enough to get to know the woman behind the culinary prowess.

We started emailing a month or so before my Italian vacation began. Instead of emailing a few tips and favourite haunts, Biba, in her imitable, generous style, sent me a copy of her book instead. “Biba’s Italy- Favourite Recipes from Splendid Cities” is a treasure-trove of tried and true recipes and hidden gems; a must-have for anyone travelling to the big boot.

She not only sent the book, she hand wrote notes in the page margins and used her “x” rating system to denote good (x), very good (xx) and must go! (xxx). Bologna, in Emilia Romagna was where Biba was born and raised. She visits frequently with her husband Vincent, and her palate is in my estimation, not to be questioned. When Biba says a restaurant is xxx, I don’t argue.

My husband and I wandered the city streets until we came upon a xxx! location called “Papa Rè” that specializes in the region’s hearty dishes. Situated in a residential neighbourhood, Dante Casari and his daughter Barbara navigate the front of house effortlessly, serving some of the city’s more discerning diners. The sign out front says it’s a Trattoria- but that’s like calling The Ritz a motel. We introduce ourselves, as per Biba’s suggestion, as her friends, and we launch into one of the most memorable meals we had in Italy.

We thought we’d had good Bolognese – but nothing has ever approached the egg-enriched tagliatelle and reduced sauce that was served to us that night. Elegant and refined, this was more like a demi-glace- rich, layered but not too much of a good thing as it barely coated the pasta. We savoured our meal and finished off with some exceptional house made desserts and a thoughtful surprise from the owners- a glass of U’Pasa - a local dessert wine that had us both swooning in minutes. Just before leaving, Dante and Barbara present us with a foil-wrapped bottle to take with us back to Canada. A generous gesture that overwhelms us both.

So Biba- even though I lacked in manners by not sending you a hand-written Thank You card, I’m hoping you’ll accept this humble entry as my way of saying “Grazie Mile” for your thoughtfulness and generosity! May it be returned to you threefold, especially upon your next visit to that fabled “City of Towers” in which you were born.

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia. From top to bottom: As seen in our walk through Bologna; Exterior of Papa Re- notice the "trattoria" sign; Mario and I at Papa Re about to enjoy our first course. He has the elusive and delectable Bolognese pasta dish; Our glasses of U'Pasa wine and bottle.