Friday, September 11, 2009

A Taste of Jerusalem

I arrive at Ben Gurion airport at 7:30am, tired after my 11hr. flight from Toronto. By the time I pass through customs (quick and easy for travellers to Israel) and get my luggage it’s around 8:30am and I’m off to Jerusalem for a day of food and feasting.

By 9:30 I’ve dropped off my luggage and am on my way to Mahane Yehuda shuk (market). The day in Jerusalem isn’t about finding new places – it’s about visiting places I already know – and a chance to enjoy great street food. At home I don’t eat fast food but here, I can’t resist falafel, bourekas, schwarma , hummas and pita and zatar.

The Mahane Yehuda shuk in Jerusalem

Zatar bread - fast food heaven!

I start my day at one of my favourite shops (definitely not street food) - Ma’zeetim (the sign is only in Hebrew) selling the best of Israeli wines, cheeses, olive oils and other things. I’m looking for a couple of gifts and Itzik Sananes, who left the high tech field a few years ago to open this great little shop, recommends a red wine from the Agur Winery in the Judean Hills (Kessem 2007) that he says is exceptional. Not cheap at 90 shekels (about $28Cdn) but it’s a special gift. I also buy a bottle of olive oil to bring home for my friends who’ve had it at my house and loved it.

Koroneiki Olive Oil from Gsher Olive Oil

I visit a few more shops before heading to Shalom Falafel for what many say is the best in West Jerusalem. Because I haven’t tried all of the falafel in the city, I can’t attest to that, but it is superb!

After lunch I rest for an hour and then walk to the old city to buy fabulously fresh spices my favourite shop. Kasem and Sons spice shop have everyone you might look for – and lots of spices you haven’t heard of. I leave with coriander, cumin, cinnamon, nigella and zatar for my friend Ella and a gift of a Maqlubeh blend for me.

Building a spice pyramid at Kasem & Sons

Next stop Abu Shukri for the best hummus in Jerusalem. I haven’t tried all the hummus either but again I’m not going to argue the point. Everything at Abu Shukri is sensational.

Although all day I’ve been thinking about what new restaurant I can try for dinner, by the time it rolls around I’m completely zonked and decide to ditch dinner and make up for it by having an extra meal somewhere in the Galilee – maybe in my great food meccas of Nazarateh or Rosh Pina.

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