Friday, August 13, 2010

Bar Jules - Chef Jessica Boncutter’s Cali-French Bistro



Culinary travelers believe me when I tell you that you’ll want to remember this name: Jessica Boncutter. A veteran of London’s fabled River Café (as is famous River Cafe alum Jamie Oliver), Boncutter cut her culinary teeth at the age of 19 when she began cooking for Judy Rodgers in San Francisco’s quintessential Californian eatery, Zuni Café.

Her new endeavour, Bar Jules, has just been named as one of Bon Appetit magazine’s “Top Ten New Restaurants” so when we make our way over there for lunch one mid-week day, we know we’re in for something special.
Located in San Francisco’s funky Hayes Valley neighbourhood, Bar Jules is a pretty, jewel-toned boîte that prides itself on offering seasonal, local fare including sustainable proteins. Menu options change daily, are well honed and offered up on two blackboards in the 38 seat dining room. Oh and the name? Boncutter named her bistro after her doggy, Jules. Bien sûr!

Since we arrived in San Francisco, Mario has been on the prowl for the perfect burger and we figure with Boncutter’s pedigree, we’ve got a good chance we’re going to find it at here. And lucky us, because that day, we see that a Marin Sun Farms beef burger is on the menu with a “little salad” served on the side. Would monsieur like some Gruyere cheese melted on top of that? Why, yes, he would!

Sandwiched in between two grilled, crusty pieces of local Acme Bakery’s “Levain” bread, one bite tells us that this is no average-joe bistro burger. “This has to be grass fed beef!” I exclaim to Mario who nods in agreement. The depth of flavour, the deep, intense meatiness of it all boldly proclaims- beef the way it’s meant to taste. I ask our efficient server who replies, “Yes! All of Marin Sun Farm’s beef is grass fed from start to finish.” And their sustainable practices also help make them a San Francisco restaurant industry favourite. Lucky, lucky diners!

I order the preserved albacore tuna sandwich with piquillo peppers, anchovy, arugula and hard cooked egg. Fresh and summery- it’s the perfect sandwich for a sunny day. But still, I find myself looking over at Mario and his juicy burger from time to time longingly- and I don’t even eat much red meat! Maybe if the beef I did eat was grass fed I would eat a bit more. That bite brought back memories of my South American childhood ensconced in two rustic pieces of bread. That alone is worth the trip to Bar Jules anytime!

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