Bon Vivant

Flavours of Tuscany Tour - Worth Savouring only 4 seats left

2011-08-05T11:15:00.000-07:00

You drive up the Cyprus lined lane and take a deep breath of air that’s been delicately perfumed with wild lavender. Up on the hill, you spot a beautifully restored 12^th Century farmhouse surrounded by the glorious, rolling landscape of Chianti Classico in Tuscany. It’s here, at La Petraia that your hosts Susan McKenna Grant and her husband Michael Grant will greet you at their luxury agriturismo for a behind-the-scenes tour of their property and for a hand-crafted lunch prepared by Susan herself. The best part? All of the food you enjoy comes straight from La Petraia’s biodynamic gardens. You’re in for a treat and the culinary delights have just begun with Bon Vivant’s Flavours of Tuscany tour.

For those that want to get their hands literally in the pasta, you have ample opportunity to flex your kitchen muscle with chef and author Judy Witts Francini who will teach you Tuscan staples at her cooking school in the medieval town of Colle Val D’Elsa. After mastering the art of making hand-rolled pasta, meat dishes and dessert, you sit down to a sumptuous meal accompanied by perfectly paired Tuscan wines.

The gourmands and culinary historians in the group will appreciate a visit to the Giusti family’s Gran Deposito Aceto Balsamico di Modena Giuseppe Giusti in Emilia Romagna. Bon Vivants will be guided through the gran deposito of arguably one of the world’s best Balsamic Vinegars by the charming Claudio Stefani himself- a 17^th generation descendant of Giuseppe Giusti who started the family business. In fact, his family is credited with being the first to record the balsamic vinegar recipe in history and it doesn’t hurt that these vinegars are also listed in the book “101 Things to Buy Before You Die.” And since the Flavours of Tuscany tour is about giving travelers an intimate taste of the culinary landscape in that part of Italy, the group will head over to the Locanda delle Quattro Stagioni for a bespoke lunch featuring Giusti’s various balsamic vinegars.

Wine lovers have much to look forward to as well, because on this tour, you’ll head to Tolaini Winery Estate in Chianti Classico, helmed by Tuscan Pierluigi Tolaini. Here, you’ll taste his much-lauded wines, explore the cellar, the vineyards and be treated to a beautiful Tuscan meal under the stars.

Flavours of Tuscany also proudly offers a boat excursion in Cinque Terre, an English-speaking guide in Rome, cheese and candy factory visits, exceptional lodging and most meals. All you have to do is wear comfortable walking shoes, bring your camera and your buon appetito! For itinerary and tour details, http://bit.ly/qtXYMR

France’s Country Accent- The Camargue Region

2011-05-16T13:07:00.000-07:00

We’re in the south of France on our first official shoot day with Paris-born, Toronto-based chef Pascal Ribreau. He’s assembled a filming crew from Toronto to help him breathe life into a long-dreamt idea of his: he’s going to shoot a pilot about French food and culture. Mostly, he’s on a mission to prove Michael Steinberger wrong- the author of “Au Revoir to All That: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine,” in which Steinberger theorizes that French food is pretty much dead.

We all warn him about the fickle nature of TV these days and broadcast executive’s shifting moods that sway somewhere between docu-soap, reality TV and what I call “humiliation TV.” Ribreau is undeterred. And here we are in the idyllic town of Uzès, in France’s Languedoc region, at a little bistro called “Terroirs” where troubled youth do the serving and fabulous local fare is du rigueur. “To our first day all together and to being here,” says Pascal with a raised wine glass adding, “Four years ago- I was in a coma. I didn’t know whether I’d be here today. I’m so happy I am – Thank you Viagra! And thank you all!”

We toast to that and laugh because we know Pascal and understand the subtext. I personally call him the “miracle man.” After successfully opening Alumette in Montreal, a car accident threw Pascal from the vehicle leaving him wheelchair bound for the rest of his life. But that didn’t stop him from opening the much-lauded Célestin in Toronto (he designed a special wheelchair that allows him to stand so he can cook). It was after that that Pascal suffered a variety of health complications including a series of mini-strokes leaving him in a coma four years ago in Toronto. As a final attempt to resuscitate him, doctors gave him an overdose of Viagra- originally meant as a blood vessel booster- and as if on cue, the chef awoke from his four day hiatus. My point is if anyone can make this work some way, somehow, against broadcaster odds, it’s assuredly Pascal Ribreau- the most positive human being I’ve ever met.

The next day, after months of planning on behalf of Pascal and his wife Laurie, we head off to the one of France’s best kept secrets- the Camargue region. Here, French cowboys have been roaming the plains and swamp lands inhabited by majestic black bulls, white wild horses and rice paddies since the seventeenth century. And I’m not talking about your garden variety cowboy. These lads are called “gardians” and their dress is far from denim rugged. Colourful Provençal shirts peek out from underneath neat vests, a hat somewhere between a fedora and a bowler hat crown their heads and grey stovepipe pants with black piping cover up athletic legs. Yes, we ladies had much eye candy to behold.

We head out to Le Mas de Peint in the sleepy town of Le Sambuc where Lucille Bon and her late husband Jacques created five-star opulence in the heart of France’s “wild west.” Apart from the luxurious boutique hotel that whispers luxury with a Provençal country accent, the estate is a working ranch or “manade” as they’re known here. Amidst the hotel’s signature sage green and soft yellows, Pascal meets with resident chef Julien Banlier (a disciple of famed French great Alain Ducasse) and together, they prepare a gourmet version of the local favourite- Bull Cheek Stew or Gardiane de Taureau.

Usually made with cubed bull meat, this elegant version created by Julien includes braised bull cheeks marinated for two days in star anise, marjoram, onion, local red wine, ginger, garlic, fennel and shallots. Think beef bourguignon but lighter and yet somehow more intense. The bull cheeks melt in the mouth as do garden-picked vegetables prepared the Ducasse way- with a little broth and olive oil to bring out their natural sweetness and essence.

Under a fragrant wisteria –lined terrace, we sit down to a typically Camarguaise meal with two happy chefs who have resurrected and refined a classic French favourite. French food dead? Not if Pascal has anything to say about it. And he’s got plenty to say about the matter- hopefully, coming to a small screen near you.

Off the Beaten Path Dining in Miami, FL

2011-03-16T13:22:00.000-07:00

There’s a world of flavour to explore in Miami beyond Caribbean and Latin American fare. The Fairmont Turnberry Isle, located just minutes from North Miami Beach and South Beach asked Miami-based food blogger Paula Nino to come up with culinary must-tries in the area for guests looking to explore further afield; even though the hotel offers a spate of top notch dining options including nationally acclaimed Chef Michael Mina's new BOURBON STEAK restaurant.

Here are some of Paula’s highlights should you find yourself in the sunshine state with a hankering for something delicious that also happens to be off the beaten path:

• TIMO (1764 Collins Avenue, Sunny Isles Beach) - I’ve had the good fortune of eating at this restaurant where Tim Andriola serves up rib-sticking Italian and Mediterranean fare in a gracious setting. The highlight- blistered pizzas from the cozy, wood-burning oven, crispy oyster salad or a perfectly grilled grouper with tender crisp vegetable contorni.

• NAOE (175 Sunny Isles Boulevard, Sunny Isles Beach) - Looking for the freshest Japanese fare around? Look no further than the intimate, 17-seat Naoe, where Chef Kevin Cory’s “omakase” menu (Chef’s Choice) bento box is the perfect fit for adventurous eaters and culinary explorers. It’s recommended you make a reservation.

• RED LIGHT (7700 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami) – Tucked away in the MiMo District with a view to the Little River Neighbourhood, you’ll find this New Orleans inspired gem. Chef Kris Wessel draws from his NOLA roots to create a menu big on southern comfort food that’s fresh and flavourful. Highlights include the BBQ shrimp and the oyster pie.

• MICHY’S (6927 Biscayne Boulevard, Miami) – You’d be remiss to head to Miami and not stop by local celeb chef Michelle Bernstein’s upscale Iberian-influenced bistro made with local, seasonal fare. From blue cheese and Serrano ham croquetas to Peruvian ceviche and crispy chickpea panisse-there’s something for every palate.

• INDOMANIA (131 26th Street, Miami Beach) – Comfortable and family-friendly, this restaurant features the talents of a husband-wife team from the Netherlands that regales diners with Dutch-Indonesian dishes. Prepare to scarf a plate of rijsttafel (rice served with a series of sides) and beef rendang- a flavourful beef stew.

Romance Across the Globe

2011-02-11T21:00:00.000-08:00

What makes a restaurant romantic? The question alone can ignite hour long debates depending on your definition of the word and concept. At Bon Vivant, we’ve done some dining and drinking for you and have came up with some simple criteria to help ignite the flames of passion.

Here’s what fuels our fire: the restaurant must have ambience, preferably off-the- beaten path so you’re not sardine crammed with every self-proclaimed Casa Nova, the food and drink must be delicious-not necessarily in a 5 star sense, speak to its locale, and the service must be attentive without being rigid or stuffy. Most would agree this makes for a special evening, no matter what time of year.

So we’ve taken our wish list and looked around the globe for some highlights- by no means exhaustive- to whet your appetites and get you in the mood to share a sensual meal with your loved one. Buen Provecho to you all!

Pan Latin Love at Cucharamama- Hoboken, NJYes, New Jersey! I said slightly off-the-beaten-path- and Chef Maricel Presilla’s ode to pan Latin specialties is worth the twelve minute ferry ride from downtown Manhattan. The wood burning oven casts diners in a golden glow- or is that the Guarapita de Aragua working its mojo? This is one of Venezuela’s most delicious drinks, made with Santa Teresa Ron Antiguo de Solera and passion fruit juice. From spicy Peruvian fare spiked with panca peppers to Argentinean churrasco, the continent is literally your oyster. With Chef Presilla at the helm (she has studied the food ways of Latin America for over 20 years), you are in expert hands.

Moyo Restaurant on the Spier Wine Estate, Stellenbosch, South AfricaReserve a table in the “tree tops” (like your own tree house) and enjoy the a cappella choir gently serende you in Zulu as warm water pours over a basin so you can wash your hands. If the night’s chilly, wrap up in wooly blankets slung behind your chair and head over to the generous, South African buffet where potjies (cast iron pots) full of savoury stews and other specialties await. Don’t miss the malva pudding with a ladle or two of Cape Velvet liquor. Lekker! And you’re in wine country after all, so there’s no shortage of fabulous offerings and South African Ruby Ports to finish dinner with.

Wine Region North- Ravine Vineyard, St. Davids, OntarioRemoved from the bustle of Niagara-on-the-Lake, this is undoubtedly one of the Niagara region’s best dining destinations. Family owned and operated, this vineyard takes wine making seriously, and now that prodigal son Paul Harber is back from his culinary stage in Germany, the food does the wine proud. Check their website often for special events where wine-paired, seasonal tasting menus are beautifully prepared by Chef Harber (who staged under Canada’s legendary Michael Stadtlander). Don’t miss the vineyard’s 2007 Redcoat- a food friendly Merlot redolent with plums and spice or Ravine’s Rieslings- the 2007 is sold out, but good things are expected for future vintages (see above picture for some Ravine wines). You’ll likely dine in a recreation of the original 1920s fruit packing shed where wood fired oven breads that are made on-site begin to tempt the palate for what’s to follow. Canadian terroir at its best!

A Dash of La Dolce Vita at La Petraia- Chianti Classico, Tuscany, ItalyIf the weather’s warm, dine al fresco on the spacious stone-lined patio off the kitchen of La Petraia where Susan McKenna-Grant will be helming the stoves using her farm’s organic, pristine products. You’ll settle in with a Prosecco and a dash of blackberry syrup, some artisanal bread made in-house, dips and a captivating vista of Tuscany’s gently rolling hills. As course after course of carefully curated dishes regales the senses, you look out over nectarine-hued sky and the majestic Cyprus trees and wonder how you got so lucky. McKenna Grant’s agriturismo is high-end without any pretense or stuffiness, and her food is flawless. Prepare to be enchanted, Italian style. That’s amore!

Fire it up: Spicy aphrodisiacs

2011-02-10T14:02:00.000-08:00

My first memory of spice came with a Bombay sandwich, back home in India. And no, I didn't want to kiss the guy who prepared it for me. It was delectable though, with two slices of soft white bread moistened with butter and a fiery coriander chutney, on which sat evenly cut slices of tomato, potato, beetroot and onions. I barely knew the word aphrodisiac, let alone that foods like chillies could put both the mind and body ‘in the mood’. So I couldn't say if it stirred anything inside of me, but I did enjoy sharing more than one sandwich with my husband all those years ago.

When you think of aphrodisiacs, the first thought is oysters. But coming from the land of spices (and the Kamasutra) we take the fact for granted that we eat these ‘romance inducing’ ingredients every day. Nutmeg, chillies, and cloves – we have them all in our spice cupboard. My mother used ginger, considered good for women's blood flow and temperament, daily. Cinnamon, used to perfume rice dishes and desserts was also a favourite. Once used by the Queen of Sheba to attract King Solomon, the warming spice is known to increase sexual desire – and historical references proves it obviously works.

When I travelled to Thailand, I quickly got addicted to their spicy papaya salad, which comes chock-full of dried chilli flakes, with the perfect balance of sweet and sour dressing. Served on small plates at makeshift carts along the streets, it was refreshing and left a gentle heat on the tongue. Now I'm not complaining because some scientists have theorized that when one consumes chillies it creates the same reactions as when making love, such as, increased heart rate, palpitations and perspiration. And it gets the 'feel good' endorphins going as well. Now who can argue with that?

One of the joys of living in a culturally diverse country like Canada is the ability to find a veritable banquet of cuisines from all over the world. Japanese sushi and sashimi are one of my favourites, and considered an aphrodisiac by some. But it’s not the freshest coral salmon and tuna that ignite the fire within. That distinction goes to the freshly grated horseradish that it’s often paired with it, which has long been considered one of nature’s best stimulants, and known to work particularly well for women.

Right now one of my favourite double-whammy aphrodisiacs is available in most grocery stores - Lindts' dark chocolate with chilli. A square melting on the tongue starts innocently enough with the rich cocoa turning creamy. But then you feel a slow heat emanating and you know that the chilli is starting to work as well. We know chocolate is commonly known as the ‘Food of the Gods’ and releases serotonin, a chemical that scientists say puts the consumer in a state of bliss. Add these amorous properties along with the chillie's heat (pardon the pun) and you should have your honey eating right out of your hands before the night is over.

Bubbles of Love

2011-02-08T08:46:00.000-08:00

All I know about St. Valentine is that he was a Christian priest in Roman times who died a gruesome death for his beliefs.

Isn’t that romantic?

Maybe not, but I think bubbles are. Sparkling wine conjures images of celebration and there is nothing more worthy of celebration than your relationship with the one you love. If one special person should not be available, good bubbles can help you fall in love with the world at large.

Sparkling wine is any wine with bubbles in it. Champagne is the king of sparklers and comes from one place….Champagne. This is a magical region of northern France, an easy drive of just over 150 kilometers from Paris. Reims (sort of pronounced Renz) is prettier than Epernay and has great historical significance, but Epernay is the business end where most of the famous producers reside.

Like a good relationship, it takes a lot of work to make a good Champagne. First you have to make wine and then you have to create a second fermentation. This happens in the bottle in which the wine will eventually be sold. A little sugar and yeast are added and the resulting fermentation creates alcohol (something that has always helped my relationships) and bubbles. The bubbles are trapped in the bottle and re-absorbed into the wine, only to appear when the cork is popped.

Here’s a note on opening a bottle of bubbles. There is a lot of pressure in the bottle of Champage. (I will refrain from any relationship connection here.) Never aim the bottle at a loved one. Hold it at a 45 degree angle and firmly grip both cork and bottle. Then gently twist the bottle instead of the cork. If done correctly, a Champenois once told me the cork should not ‘pop, but sigh like a satisfied woman’. How very French! If this is true I am yet to open a bottle correctly. (Either that or I have never satisfied a woman.)

I always keep the metal cage on the cork to help me grip. This is however, a very bad idea if you don’t follow my earlier advice about not aiming it at a loved one.

So, why is Champagne the drink of lovers around the world? For this answer, I think I will defer to the iconic Epicurean, Brillat-Savarin.

“Burgundy makes you think off silly things, Bordeaux makes you talk of them and Champagne makes you do them.”

Should you find yourself without companionship on the 14th, allow me to make a suggestion. Be somewhere with a glass of Champagne and a fabulous view.

[Photo]Nick in Istanbul without his wife, but with his Champagne.

Susur Lee- Guiding Palates to Asia Via the World at Shang

2011-01-14T19:28:00.000-08:00

We leave behind swirls of snow and a brisk winter wind upon entering the warm confines of Manhattan’s Thompson Hotel, in the city’s the lower east side. I’m with a small group of Canadians, some of us journalists, some of us in the travel industry – all of us very fortunate to have been invited by Chef Susur Lee to dine at Shang.

Named after the Chinese symbol meaning “upwards and above,” Shang manages to live up its name – literally (it’s on the second floor) and especially, when Chef Lee is at the stove. Past the dark wood, lattice cut screens, the fabric-enveloped chandeliers and the sleek bar, is a sexy dining room that whispers rather announces modern Asian.

Chef Lee’s food is, not coincidentally, in the same vein. Chinese inspired but globally-minded, Lee’s flavour forward, beautifully presented fare has led him to receive accolades from critics far and wide. Food & Wine heralded Lee as one of the "Ten Chefs of the Millennium" while Gourmet declared him "an improvisational artist." I’ve had the good fortune of trying Lee’s food before, but never a ten course tasting menu in the chef’s NYC restaurant.

One of his most popular and enduring creations is the simply titled “Singapore Slaw,” but this time he dresses it up with crudo (the Italian version of sashimi). Simple sounding yes, but the nineteen- ingredient, beautifully layered dish dressed with a salted plum vinaigrette is a textural symphony. The fish is buttery and soft, the nuts and vegetables crunchy – it is both refreshing and light for such an ingredient-laden dish.

Next, a long dish with warm sea scallops and Lee’s fanciful take on the Hong Kong staple, dim sum appears. Edamame are scattered about like a much tidier Pollock painting in spring greens dancing in Chive XO sauce. Spicy, warming, hearty- just what every winter night needs.

We devour Cantonese style skirt steak dressed with shallot brown butter and a hazelnut chili ponzu, we go a little overboard with Lee’s Cantonese wok fried pearl noodles, but it’s his Asian Duck with Peking style garnishes that puts us over the gustatory edge. Full-flavoured and texturally outstanding- the sliced duck breast gets wrapped with a traditional Asian pancake, slivers of green onion, cucumber, Hoisin sauce and instead of crispy duck skin, deep fried bean curd skins. Truly spectacular and likely half the calories, but who’s counting?

Brett Blass, the hotel’s General Manager joins us for a while and waxes eloquent on the exceptional nature of Lee’s cooking and his personality saying, “He always says, ‘Brett, what can I do to help you?’ whenever we come up against a challenge. You don’t see that too often these days, and believe me, apart from his obvious skills, I can’t stress how special it is to work with someone like Susur.”

Blass’s response clearly points to why the Thompson Hotel group chose to go with Lee when they opened their new Washington, D.C. property and wanted another unique dining experience. Lee’s Washington venture is called “Zentan.” I’ve lost count of Lee’s restaurants, his US, prime-time TV appearances (most recently, Top Chef Masters), and his growing fan base.

I’m happy for the Zen-like chef who over the years I’ve had the good fortune of getting to know professionally. He works harder than most, has a gift for combining flavours and ingredients and is smart. Besides, although he’s Hong Kong born, he’s also Canadian and one of the finest culinary representatives we could have at the third annual Cayman Cookout- the Caribbean’s premier epicurean event. If the event organizers are clever, they’ll ask him back next year where he’ll no doubt wow audiences with his personal vision of dishes that guide willing palates to Asia, via the world.

“New Scotland”- Canada’s New Culinary Hot Spot in the Making!

2010-12-16T07:57:00.000-08:00

There’s something special about the fresh, salt-tinged air in Halifax, the deep blue of the Atlantic and the sunny disposition of people who live in a province named “New Scotland.” Maybe it’s something in the air that makes the people here just that much more hospitable than most of their Canadian counterparts. Maybe it’s the abundant seafood that they get to feast on whenever the mood strikes (seafood is supposed to be an aphrodisiac after all!). Or maybe it’s that on the eastern shores of such a massive country like Canada, the people who call Halifax home have found their own Shangri-La.

Whatever the reason, one thing is certain- this province is as beautiful as is the bounty of their tables. On a recent visit, we ate at the charming and cozy Fid Resto in downtown Halifax where owner/chef Dennis Johnston pays homage to the region’s long-lasting love affair with fresh fish and all things locally sourced. Don’t miss the warm local wild mushroom tart with Fox Hill aged cheddar (from nearby Annapolis Valley) or the perfectly seared Atlantic Halibut with roasted vegetables, organic carrots, parsnips and Brussels sprouts. Both say “proudly Nova Scotian” prepared by a chef who loves this province more than most.

At Fid, we enjoyed Gaspereau Vineyard’s 2008 Seyval Blanc- a crisp, clean and fresh wine produced by Gina Haverstock in the picturesque Annapolis Valley. A mere hour and change drive outside of Halifax, and you’re in a bucolic, gently rolling pastoral setting where local food artisans and an entire wine industry have set up shop. From lamb, cattle, fruits and vegetables, to Gaspereau Vineyard and several other wineries (including Benjamin Bridge that is working on a comprehensive “Champaign” method sparkling wine program), the Annapolis Valley is a culinary force in the making.

No stop to the valley would be complete without a visit to Tempest World Cuisine in Wolfville helmed by slow food proponent and one of the province’s celebrity chefs, Michael Howell. Take his perfectly caramelized Mahone Bay scallops with organic beets and Rancher Acres goat cheese finished in a beet beurre blanc – this was a beautifully balanced flavour sensation that typifies Howell’s cooking. Paired with the valley’s L’Acadie Vineyards L’Acadie Star (07), the wine’s citrus/grapefruit notes played off perfectly against the dish.

Wine route tours, lovingly restored historic inns that belonged to titans of the boating industry, top notch cuisine showcasing local product and miles of pristine views await the hungry traveler to Nova Scotia. I’ve been twice and every time I go, I discover a new gem and am always amazed by the hospitality locals extend to those of us “from away.” This is my kind of province and I’ve only ever been in winter. I can only imagine what the Atlantic looks like shimmering in the mid-day summer sun and what a lobster broil would taste like by the water’s edge!

Tasting the World in Dubai

2010-12-13T11:12:00.000-08:00

Bistro Madeleine is bustling on a weekday afternoon. Smart suited businessmen and ladies of leisure chat while dining on classic French classics of steak frites and cassoulet. With chequered table cloths, soft French music playing and a rib-sticking Croque Monsieur in front of me; my mind believes, for all aesthetic purposes, that I’m in a chic Parisian bistro. Then I look outside and see the silhouette of the Burj Al Arab, the word’s tallest building in the distance and snap back to reality. I’m in the middle of the desert at the InterContinental Dubai Festival City in the United Arab Emirates.

But then this cosmopolitan emirate is full of surprises. With a melting pot of cultures living here, it was only natural that the food scene would gain a more global flavour. From tiny family-run eateries to international restaurant chains like California Pizza Kitchen and Michelin-starred fare of Nobu and Gordon Ramsay, residents are quite literally offered the world on a plate…and to fit every budget. So whether you’re savouring some shish tawouk from a street vendor or grabbing cupcakes from Magnolia Bakery at Bloomingdale’s, there’s always time – and plenty of choice – to balance both local and international range of flavours.

Ask anyone what is the cheapest and most ubiquitous neighbourhood favourite is and most will recommend the Lebanese shawarma. This is fast food, Middle Eastern style and is a treat to watch as it’s prepared. The vendor gently shaves off pieces of chicken or mutton from a giant skewer before tucking it into a pita laced with a garlicky mayo-like spread, along with fries and a couple of pickles. For vegetarians, the herbed chickpea fritters, falafel, are substituted. Both rolled up like a fat cigar; make a perfect meal on-the-go. Add some hummus and tabbouleh on the side and you have meal that is reminiscent of many homes in the Levant.

An edible trip to the subcontinent is also extremely easy and Indian cuisine is one that is widely represented. Butter chicken, biryanis, Bombay street food – the list is endless. A breakfast favourite with many Indian expats is the rice crepe from the south called a dosa that’s stuffed with turmeric-steeped potatoes served with fresh coconut-based sauces called chutneys. On weekends, expect a long wait at restaurants like Saravanaa Bhavan that specialise in this favourite. Wash it down with a cup of frothy filter coffee that errs on the sweet side but is strong enough to keep you going for the day.

The Dubai institution most expatriates look forward to however, and one that is recommended for visitors, is the Friday Brunch, when the weekend officially begins. One of the best destinations is Spectrum on One restaurant at the Fairmont Dubai, which serves champagne on tap and a buffet that’s a microcosm of the world’s cuisines, much like its clientele. From Thailand, to Europe and China, eight live kitchens churn out a tantalizing array of food that includes freshly shucked oysters and a range of cheeses.

For the three hours that the brunch is open I realise it’s like a taking a whirlwind trip around the world. Should I have the sushi, Alaskan crab legs to maybe a glass of port? Much like the buffet, I realise that the emirate’s residents are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining out. I move through the stations and come upon Peking duck. Then I decide instead of choosing a few things to try a bit of each – my taste buds will undoubtedly enjoy the international tour. And the best part is I never even had to leave Dubai to do it.

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro

2010-11-23T11:42:00.000-08:00

When the stars seem to shine like you’ve had too much wine that’s Amaro.

O.K. I’m paraphrasing but no one can argue that these famous digestivos of Italy pack a punch.

Amaro is a bitter liqueur that normally combines a series of herbs to create a unique flavour. The recipes are fiercely guarded and each town and village has its preferred recipe. Basically, anyone who can make wine, can distill grappa. Anyone who has a grappa has probably experimented with infusing local herbs to make an amaro. They settle the stomach, invigorate the nerves and calm the mind. I have no medical evidence for any of these claims.

When in Italy, amaro is normally served by itself in a liqueur glass. That having been said, some people have it in their coffee. I have even had amaro poured into my finished espresso cup and been told to add a cube of sugar. The point is, like all drinks in Italy, amaro is served in relation to the meal. Aperitivi give you an appetite and digestivi help you digest. Easy.

Even if the local amaro is not unique and obscure it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t indulge. There is a reason that Fernet Branca is so popular. I know you are thinking of that bottle at the local bar that is gathering dust and hasn’t seen action for several years. Well, you don’t live in Verona, do you? That same bottle wouldn’t last one night in a reasonably busy Italian bar. Don’t take my word for it. Take a look across the counter next time you’re in Rome. Actually, as everyone will be staring at the tourist leaning across the bar, you had better order one while you are at it.

True story. Well, mainly true.

The first time I tried amaro I thought someone was trying to poison me. I was young and not a heavy drinker. Neither of these problems assail me now. I was with a ‘friend’ who was telling us an old family story. (It turned out to be the plot to ‘Arsenic and Old Lace’). Anyway he lost a bet or something and had to buy the next round. He came back with a round of drinks without divulging the contents of our glasses. We were told to ‘down them in one sip’ and being young, we readily complied. You are not meant to ‘shoot’ Fernet Branca! We were convinced it was arsenic until our friend’s convulsions of laughter made it clear that it was just another part of the big, wide world. Don’t be like me. Have your first amaro intentionally!

Sipping Tea on the Ceylon Tea Trails

2010-11-16T14:10:00.000-08:00

It’s 7am in Sri Lanka’s Bogawantalawa Valley, hours away from the capital city Colombo. I slip out of my room at the Ceylon Tea Trails’ Tienstin Bungalow and take a seat on patio. Before me lies a sea of green – tea fields enveloped in a thick cloud of mist. My only accompaniment is a cup of freshly brewed Ceylon tea with a slice of lemon and birdsong. As I take my first sip, I think about the magical sway this beverage has on tea aficionados across the world.

A trip here brings you into the heart of tea country where rolling hills of fresh tea form a picturesque backdrop against the azure sky. Ironically, in the 1800s Sri Lanka was initially a coffee growing nation – until the crops were wiped out by a fungus. As a substitute for coffee, the former British colonial rulers planted the humble tea crop. Today, more than 400,000 acres stand testament to that foresight and this ‘green gold’ remains one of the country’s most famed exports.

Slipping into the past is easy at the Ceylon Tea Trails bungalows that are owned by the local Dilmah Tea Company. Four refurbished colonial bungalows complete with stately dining rooms and manicured gardens offer visitors a luxurious stay reminiscent of the tea planter’s lifestyle. But that’s not what brings me here. It’s their epicurean vacations that draws inspiration from garden fresh produce in their own backyard.

Keen to try a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast I opt for starting the day with a riot of spices – another of the country’s main exports. Feathery string hoppers (rice pancakes) generously soak up the curry swimming with pieces of potato. The fish curry has a real kick that’s soothed by the sweet coconut in the kiribath (milk rice). The fragrant spread is accompanied by a juicy coconut sambol redolent of chilli and, of course, a pot of freshly brewed Ceylon Supreme Blend.

Surrounded by verdant tea plants, the day is spent leisurely strolling or biking through the serpentine paths. As I stop for a picnic along the way, I think I could get used to this pace of life. Next stop is a tour with the resident tea planter along Dilmah’s trails and I watch tea being hand picked, then fermented and packaged using century old artisanal methods in the factory. The tour aptly ends with a tea tasting, where I learn the intricacies of its flavours and leave feeling like a bit of a connoisseur.

Back at the bungalow I’m already looking forward to dinner – a tea-infused meal using Dilmah’s flavoured and single estate teas. My first course is a beetroot and orange salad dressed in a vinaigrette made with Spicy Berry tea. It’s followed by a succulent roast chicken anointed in a gravy of Yatta Watte (low-grown tea). Then comes the meal’s decadent sweet ending – a modern tiramisu with velvety layers of Orange Pekoe scented cream. My opinion about tea was revolutionized. It was no more just a soothing beverage, but rather, a gourmet ingredient that can hold its own.

As I sipped my post-dinner cup of tea infused with a stick of cinnamon, I couldn’t help but silently thank the former colonial rulers. Languorous meals, a locavore approach to eating, fresh air and a slower pace of life – the tea planters knew what they were doing. Little wonder Ceylon Tea Trails has been listed as Sri Lanka’s first Relias&Chateaux Resort. So the next time I need to escape, I’m returning for a trip back in time and a cuppa at this tea lover’s paradise.

Savouring the Culinary Renaissance of Ottawa

2010-11-04T09:18:00.000-07:00

The night before I join Paola St-Georges on her “Foods of the ByWard Market Tour” in this nation’s capital, we dine at local hot spot Navarra. We’re joined by local food bloggers Don and Jen, the duo behind the city’s “Foodie Prints” blog where they discuss and review everything local and edible. Navarra is a sliver of Spain as interpreted through the trained palate of Chef René Rodriguez. Fiery reds, sleek banquettes and waiters who look like hot-blooded Flamenco dancers choreograph their way through dinner service. The food is as hot, figuratively, hence why it’s recognized by Ottawa Magazine as one of the city’s Top Ten tables.

Over a platter of sliced Iberico ham, I ask Paola how she got the idea of creating and giving food tours in Ottawa. She smiles saying, “If I had said ‘let’s explore the food scene here’ 10 years ago, you might have laughed. I actually got the idea from Don. I read an article he recommended about New York's famous food tours and I was captivated by the idea. I also realized that Ottawa's food scene was ready for these tours too.”

Before you scoff at the notion, let me pre-empt hasty judgments by saying that the last time I was in Ottawa, in the late 90s, that city’s food scene didn’t resemble this version in the least. Paola explains this saying, “The last 10-15 years has seen the emergence of a truly local, thriving food scene here. Chefs have opened their own restaurants and made it a priority to use local, seasonal ingredients while bringing their own style to dishes they serve,” adding, “Local farmers, assisted by organizations such as Savour Ottawa, have found new, enthusiastic restaurant clients. The public has shown an ever-increasing level of interest in all things food and is now buzzing about everything from new local cheeses to the latest "must-visit" restaurant.” The result of this new-found vigour is C’est Bon Cooking which includes classes helmed by Chef Andrée Riffou and tours like the one I’m about to head out on.

We start mid-morning the next day, with Paola leading the way commencing at the eponymous Metropolitain Brasserie- one of the most frequented spots for politicians and pundits during “Hill Hour.” Housing the city’s largest raw oyster bar, it’s got the requisite French café tables, chairs, and menu including crisp frites served with a side of aioli mayo. Poli sci nerds can be found gawking at their legislative heroes and heroines on any given afternoon.

We head around the corner to marvel at the Château Laurier where famed photographer Yousuf Karsh snapped the iconic image of Winston Churchill- the scowl comes from having grabbed Churchill’s cigar from his mouth!

Sumptuous afternoon tea at Zoe’s Lounge still reigns supreme at the Château. But it’s the beautiful, hidden courtyards near the market that captivate and transport me to a little French town- each one a rabbit’s warren of treasures including Planet Coffee and the Black Tomato café.

Along the way, we sip, savour and chat to chefs, shop owners, ByWard Market fruit and vegetable merchants and butchers- all proudly displaying organic produce or prized cuts from heritage breeds. I make a mental note of stopping by La Bottega Nicastro after the tour to shop at my leisure after spotting award-winning Ottawa valley cheddars. We end our tour at Le Boulanger Français where hot butter croissants await.

As Paola points out, within Ottawa city limits, there are a whopping 1267 farms- everything they need to have a flourishing food scene literally located inside the city’s urban boundary. “It's a wonder it took so long to develop!” says Paola. But now that the secret’s out and farmers, chefs and shop owners alike are getting an economic shot in the pocket book by engaged food-lovers, the future looks deliciously bright for Ottawa. And it’s about time!

Bespoke Winemaking with Rootstocks in Niagara

2010-10-13T09:11:00.000-07:00

On a warm, early fall afternoon, my husband and I drive to some of the most scenic land in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario- the Twenty Mile Bench. It’s here that David Johnson’s Featherstone Estate Winery sits atop rich, clay soils where he grows his various varietals on twenty pristine acres. Johnson is also the resident winemaker for an intriguing new winemaking experience called Rootstocks.

Rootstocks is the brainchild of Andrew and Christina Brooks, hospitality industry professionals , sommeliers and owners of Crush on Niagara Wine Tours. Their Rootstock light bulb moment struck when the former Calgarians kept hearing overworked urbanites say “You are living my dream life.” Tired, stressed-out city dwellers would see properties like Featherstone, and the vineyard Brooks and his wife planted and they would long to somehow be a part of that.

“I thought to myself ‘what if you could have a piece of the wine country lifestyle without quitting your day job?’” says Andrew. And so, the vine to bottle concept of Rootstocks where members get a chance to partake in the winemaking experience was born and bottled. Viticultural practices and winemaking techniques are overseen by Johnson and his Featherstone Estate team and grapes are sourced from a 10 acre site in the nearby Lincoln Lakeshore DVA. The Vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Riesling and Chardonnay.
We drive up to the grape-growing property in time for the sun to turn a mellow yellow. Johnson talks to us about the soil and drainage in this particular part of the escarpment and we try fresh pinot grapes straight off the vine. With Andrew’s help, I learn the art of the sabrage- where you take a long knife (originally a sabre) and literally slice the top of a champagne bottle in one fell swoosh! According to Brooks, my technique was on the money: a clean, glass round slice with the cork top still embedded the proof. I happily drank a glass of Henry of Pelham’s Cuvee Catherine Rose Brut to that!

Members who decide to become a part of their own, bespoke winemaking experience are a lucky bunch. They’ll get to prune their own vines (if they wish), work with experts on their wine’s lab analysis, blend, fruit process, label design- all without quitting their day jobs. They will in fact become their own land and wine barons- if even for a vintage (15-18 months). Vineyard activities and wine production begins this year, but interested members can join at any point in the year.
We end the day back at Featherstone where under the cool canopy of a vine-lined trellis we’re treated to Brook’s first two viniferous efforts: Mia 2007 Old Vines Riesling and Redhead 2004. These pair beautifully with locally procured treats, including Mario Pingue’s prosciutto, cheeses and flat breads from The Good Earth Cooking School and Winery. As we say goodbye with a bottle of Featherstone’s Onyx 2007 under our arm, we can see how harried urbanites would give their kingdom for a barrel of wine that whispers “well done you!” Talk about taking bragging rights to a whole new, wine-soaked level!

Liquid History

2010-09-28T07:16:00.000-07:00

My wife and I are planning our first return to the UK in nearly four years and we can’t wait. The only difference is that this time we are bringing a 2 ½ year old. You might think that this would limit our enjoyment and our alcohol consumption. Fear not!

I will continue my quest to find the perfect British pub.

The problem is that no matter how great my current pub is, I never know if there is something even better around the corner.

What is the perfect pub? I’m glad you asked.

First it has to have something really good on tap. This must be a proper British beer and not any of that lager rubbish. I want something like and Adnam’s Broadside or a Shepherd Neame Spitfire Ale or a cask-ale from a good local brewery. It should have a pretty beer garden and a cozy interior with dark wood and an open fireplace for winter. The grub should be good, but not too fancy. (You don’t want yuppies coming in). No gaming machines, please, and not too noisy, but I want friendly bar staff and a pub landlord who takes a bit of pride in his place. Last but not least, I like my pub to have a bit of history. Now most pubs that fit the bill will be found outside of major cities in little villages that haven’t changed for generations. The Blue Anchor (East Aberthaw, Wales) is a favourite of mine and has been going since 1380 with a thatched roof and low ceilings.

However, there are some great pubs in London and if you are game, I am going to send you for a walk along the Thames at Rotherhithe and Wapping.

In a small room in the Angel (101 Bermondsey Wall East) Captain Cook planned his voyage to the new world. There are no real ales here, but a great view. Keep walking east.

The Mayflower (117 Rotherhithe Street) is where the Pilgrim Fathers set sail from in 1620 and the pub was renamed in honour of their ship. This pub has a little jetty to enjoy a pint with a perfect Thames view. Now you need to hop on the tube at Rotherhithe and go one stop north (under the Thames) to Wapping.

Keep heading East to the Prospect of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall). It is one of London’s oldest pubs and business has been done on this site since the 1500s. All of these pubs have a great Thames view and offer liquid history.

See you there. I’ll be the one pushing the stroller.

www.blueanchoraberthaw.com

A Festival for Every Flavour in Italia

2010-09-13T12:55:00.000-07:00

October offers a bounty of food festivals throughout la bella Italia. Whether your palate prefers savoury or sweet, there’s something for every taste and proclivity.

Here are some of Bon Vivant’s Preferred Picks:

Alba International White Truffle Fair
This yearly ode to the “superior” white truffle takes place this year from October 9 to November 14th in the historic centre (or “centro storico”) of Alba, Italy. Truffle Markets run every Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 8pm to ensure you get your fair share of the fragrant tuber. Some of the world’s most celebrated chefs and their legion of followers descend upon Alba to fete the Tuber Magnatum Pico (aka white truffles). At £1600 per kilo (or $2500 USD per pound), these are considered the very best in the world and are sought after with much gusto. You may recall that in 2005, an anonymous truffle aficionado paid $112, 000.00 USD for a 2.5 pound white truffle. This yearly event also features an invitation only truffle auction, a fair and a gastro-tourist’s excuse to explore Piedmontese cuisine. White truffles grow by the roots of hazelnut and oak trees. They are characterized by a distinct musky flavour known to flavour a Piedmontese butter sauce, risotto, upscale omlettes and just about anything other dish to which you want to lend an air of sophistication.

Boccaccesca Food and Wine Festival
From October 2-10, the picturesque Tuscan town of Certaldo will play host to this epicurean delight. From spiced meats, cheeses, local olive oils, freshly baked breads, preserves and other local specialties, hungry travelers and locals alike delight in this yearly festival.
Certaldo celebrates everything local with particular emphasis on culinary traditions over two weekends with food stalls, tastings, cooking classes, chef competitions and workshops set up in courtyards, gardens and along the town streets. The narrow, medieval thoroughfares are happily filled with the stands of craftsmen and women from every part of Tuscany.
The festival runs Friday and Saturday evening from 6 pm to 9 pm, and Sunday from 11 am to 9 pm. The town of Certaldo can be reached by train or bus on the Florence-Siena train line, and a short cable car ride takes visitors to the upper town of Boccaccesca, the medieval town of Giovanni Boccaccio. There’s a 5 Euro entrance Fee on Saturday and Sunday, but Fridays are free. An extra 3 Euro will buy you a complimentary glass of local vino.

Eurochocolate:
If you dream in chocolate, then Eurochocolate, being held this October 15 to 24 in Perugia, will be sure to please any sweet tooth! Perugia, as you may know, is home to the chocolate and hazelnut clusters devoured the world over and known as Bacio Perugina (bacio means kiss in Italian).

There’s no entrance fee to this Willy Wonka chocolate-lover’s delight which runs from 9am-8pm daily (except Saturday which goes until 11pm). Chocolate competitions, sculpture making, tastings (of course!), and Eurochocolate World which takes a look at the socio-economic issues of chocolate production around the globe are all on offer. Gluttons be warned- there’s a new take on Tiramisu called Tiramigiu (pull me up) that’s sure to tempt your taste buds. Held at the Sala del Cerp della Rocca Paolina in Perugia.

Bar Jules - Chef Jessica Boncutter’s Cali-French Bistro

2010-08-13T11:33:00.000-07:00

Culinary travelers believe me when I tell you that you’ll want to remember this name: Jessica Boncutter. A veteran of London’s fabled River Café (as is famous River Cafe alum Jamie Oliver), Boncutter cut her culinary teeth at the age of 19 when she began cooking for Judy Rodgers in San Francisco’s quintessential Californian eatery, Zuni Café.

Her new endeavour, Bar Jules, has just been named as one of Bon Appetit magazine’s “Top Ten New Restaurants” so when we make our way over there for lunch one mid-week day, we know we’re in for something special.
Located in San Francisco’s funky Hayes Valley neighbourhood, Bar Jules is a pretty, jewel-toned boîte that prides itself on offering seasonal, local fare including sustainable proteins. Menu options change daily, are well honed and offered up on two blackboards in the 38 seat dining room. Oh and the name? Boncutter named her bistro after her doggy, Jules. Bien sûr!

Since we arrived in San Francisco, Mario has been on the prowl for the perfect burger and we figure with Boncutter’s pedigree, we’ve got a good chance we’re going to find it at here. And lucky us, because that day, we see that a Marin Sun Farms beef burger is on the menu with a “little salad” served on the side. Would monsieur like some Gruyere cheese melted on top of that? Why, yes, he would!

Sandwiched in between two grilled, crusty pieces of local Acme Bakery’s “Levain” bread, one bite tells us that this is no average-joe bistro burger. “This has to be grass fed beef!” I exclaim to Mario who nods in agreement. The depth of flavour, the deep, intense meatiness of it all boldly proclaims- beef the way it’s meant to taste. I ask our efficient server who replies, “Yes! All of Marin Sun Farm’s beef is grass fed from start to finish.” And their sustainable practices also help make them a San Francisco restaurant industry favourite. Lucky, lucky diners!

I order the preserved albacore tuna sandwich with piquillo peppers, anchovy, arugula and hard cooked egg. Fresh and summery- it’s the perfect sandwich for a sunny day. But still, I find myself looking over at Mario and his juicy burger from time to time longingly- and I don’t even eat much red meat! Maybe if the beef I did eat was grass fed I would eat a bit more. That bite brought back memories of my South American childhood ensconced in two rustic pieces of bread. That alone is worth the trip to Bar Jules anytime!

Saying Si to CONTIGO in San Francisco

2010-08-09T06:49:00.000-07:00

San Franciscans are a blessed lot. Surrounded by the fertile lands of Sonoma, Napa and every valley in between, the denizens of this city have year-round access to fresh produce of every stripe that would make any food lover kale-green with envy. So when I heard that there was a Catalan-style restaurant called Contigo (with you in Spanish) on the edge of Noe Valley serving up pintxos (aka tapas) using local produce, I said Si in a hurry!
I was joined by Mario (my husband), and locals/good pals Robyn and Maricar. Our four-top meant we were enough to order a variety of things from the well-composed menu and not get overly-stuffed. We started with the Lomo Iberico de Bellota “Pata Negra” – Spain’s famous acorn-fed, black hoofed pigs. We were served slivers of pork loin (hence the lomo part of the description) that are paprika-rubbed lending a mysterious, smokey note that we all liked. We opted for some Pa Amb Tomaquet- Catalan’s favourite snack: toasted bread with tomato pulp and olive oil to accompany our starter as well as a glass of 2009 Bizkaiko Txakolina – a fresh white that’s hard to find in Toronto.
The Txakoli wine was the perfect match for our local calamars a la planxa- flat top grilled calamari with Spanish padrón peppers and a swipe of Romesco sauce. This was by far my favourite dish of the night. Clean, simple and bursting with flavour- my kind of eating! A roasted beet, garlic chip, mint and greens salad dressed with an aged sherry vinagreta served as a side, as did a plate of Catalan-style sautéed chard with roasted almonds, golden raisins and garlic. Everyone wanted to sample the wood oven roasted local sardine and avocado toasts, so we ordered some and devoured the two-bite morsels. Topped with picked red onion rounds, this was creamy, rich and fresh.
Cali-Spanish? You bet! I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the two “postres” or desserts we inhaled. Chocolate Caliente- or hot chocolate at Contigo is rich and thick like I’ve enjoyed in Barcelona. On its own, it’s dessert-worthy but we up the ante by ordering them with churros (the breakfast of choice in Spain- my kinda country!). And we spot a house-made “helado” (ice cream) infused with none other than the city’s fabled Blue Bottle coffee- so we grab some of that too, topped with a warm chocolate sauce that will never be forgotten and a lengua de gato cookie (like a thick tuile). I still hanker for some of that helado smothered in that opulent chocolate sauce. It was more like a warm, sexy ganache from the right side of the tracks- good looking and dressed to kill. Sigh…
On a Thursday night at 8pm, Contigo was jam-packed. Locals in this town appreciate the changing roster of edible jewels whose provenance you can discern on the back of the menu. Area farmers, ranchers, fishermen, dairy producers and artisanal craftspeople all get a shout out. Owners Brett Emerson and Elan Drucker have created what they call a “Love letter to Barcelona.” Whimsical, intriguing and well-designed, Contigo can induce a Spanish crush on even the most jaded, big-city diner!

TIP: Call ahead for reservations- this place is popular with good reason!

Scooping Up San Francisco

2010-08-05T06:53:00.001-07:00

Rain, fog or shine, San Franciscans appreciate a good scoop. No matter what the unpredictable San Franciscan weather may bring, this city’s citizens will patiently wait in a half hour plus line up for a lick of their favourite ice cream.
The Mission district seems to have the ice cream market all scooped up. Down the block from Tartine, Bi-Rite Creamery has been creating premium gourmet flavours using local Straus Family Farms’ milk and local organic ingredients in every ice cream. At least half a dozen people- both locals and travelers, tell me the “can’t miss” flavour here is salted caramel. I do a little sleuthing of my own and stumble upon ice cream guru and pastry chef David Lebovitz’s blog where he extols the virtues of Bi-Rite’s Mint Chip, informing me that organic mint oil and quality chocolate shards go into every batch.
It’s decided, Mario and I order one of each. We walk straight in and order at 11:05am. This is important to note only because the shop opens at 11am and there’s an almost perpetual lineup outside the door at all times, except at the very start of the day. I know, it’s a little early for ice cream, but we’re here to taste test the best and if that means taking one for the team, then we’re game.
Mario b-lines it for the salted caramel, I grab the mint chip and we sit down to compare flavours. Mario’s has the OMG factor- intense, caramelized sugar, perfectly creamy and balanced thanks to the salt. The Mint Chip is the embodiment of a good mint chip, but compared to the salted caramel, the flavour pales in comparison.
Out of journalistic integrity, I ask the affable chap behind the counter if I can try a teaspoonful of the summer-only flavour Balsamic Strawberry and the intriguingly named Ricanela. The strawberry is deft and subtle, but it’s the Ricanela- with its soft cinnamon notes and Mexican horchata (a rice and almond milk beverage) flavour swirled with flecks of Snickerdoodle candy that captures our taste buds. It’s like a Mexican birthday cake in every lick- si por favor!
Several blocks away, pastry chef Jake Godby can be found whipping up a variety of wild and wonderful flavours at his Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream shop. His simple royal blue and white shop with its fantastical double-headed cow logo has recently been written up in the New York Times for its more adult-focused flavours. Boccalone Prosciutto ice cream, Thai Chili Lime sorbet, and “Secret Breakfast” (Bourbon and corn flakes) are some of the unique flavours on offer.
We sit down to a scoop of Secret Breakfast, McEvoy Olive Oil, and Honey and Thyme ice cream. Next to us are two Manhattanites who find themselves in the largely Mexican Mission neighbourhood with brimming bowls of whimsical flavours. I ask them how they’re enjoying their scoops, “This is really very good quality ice cream,” says the lady in question who adds, “we get just about everything in New York City but we don’t quite have ice cream like this!” Her husband nods in agreement.
The hands-down favourite in our bowls is the Secret Breakfast- the bourbon adding a sophisticated, toffee like backdrop to the cornflake crunch ensconced in a creamy cloud. Humphry Slocombe’s ice cream can also be enjoyed in a Blue Bottle Affogato (espresso with a scoop of ice cream) at the Ferry Market Plaza Building and at Contigo in Noe Valley where the flavour is Blue Bottle Ice Cream served with a hot chocolate ganache and a crisp tuille. Good thing there are enough steep streets to keep the cardio levels up and the ice cream quotient in check!

San Francisco’s Most Delectable Petit Dejeuner

2010-07-30T06:43:00.000-07:00

I can’t think of a more delectable way to start the day in San Francisco than by heading over to Tartine Bakery & Café in the Mission District for a bon petit dejeuner. As my husband Mario and I walk toward an unassuming café on the corner of Guerrero and 18th, the scent of freshly baked pastries ensconced in melted chocolate and butter helps lift the city’s morning fog.

Inside, the simple, white room is already people-packed at 9:20am. We wait in a line that spills out on to the street and ogle the perfectly curated array of tempting treats. There’s frangipane, pain au chocolat, cake aux olives (a savoury loaf of gruyere cheese, olive slivers, Niman Ranch ham pieces and rosemary), bread pudding with fresh, seasonal fruit, “Breakfast Buns” made with orange sugar, éclairs (for the decadent) and the best black pepper and thyme gougeres (large, golden glorious cheese puffs). And that’s just for starters. We order a round of café au lait beverages to accompany our selections and feel as if we’re on the Left Bank.

We’re joined by Olga Katsnelson – a San Francisco-based food publicist who knows something about what’s wallet-worthy food-wise in the city. At her behest, Texas-born, Culinary Institute of America trained Chad Robertson stops by to say hello. Chad and his wife Elisabeth Prueitt are the “quality obsessed” owners (as Olga would say), of Tartine. We learn that he worked in Burgundy, France for years, along with Elisabeth before returning to the US to put into practice all that they’ve learned. San Franciscans are appreciative patrons.

“For a city of 800,000, seems to me like you lot dine out more than most,” I remark to Olga. She nods in agreement- “Yes,” she replies, “this is a city that takes its food seriously!”

Mario asks Olga why, with the myriad choices available in town, this is possibly the most beloved French pastry shop in San Francisco. She says, “because they do everything the hard way. There are no short cuts and you can taste it.” She’s dead-on. My quiche, made using market-fresh, organic tomatoes, peppers, herbs and crème fraiche is the best I’ve ever had. And bless their hearts- the staff here have the good sense to oven warm their quiche (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had my order micro-waved resulting in a soggy, almost water-logged disgusting crust).We wait until 10am at which point Mario gets his wish- an open faced Croque Monsieur sandwich with Niman Ranch ham, gruyere and tomato slices over the bakery’s own rustic, crumb-perfect bread.

By the time we leave, there’s a new wave of patrons lining up for their mid-morning snacks and coffees. Olga tells us that by 5pm, when Chad and Elisabeth put out their daily freshly baked bread selections in time for dinner, they will be sold out in 15 minutes. It’s no wonder the dynamic duo behind Tartine have won a spate of awards. Their newest book, “ Tartine Bread” is due out this year- so if you’re a bread aficionado, keep your eyes out. It will be a tasty tome.

20 restaurants, 9 bars, Adult Only Beach Club and party till you drop: Is this the life of a Bon Vivant?

2010-07-15T12:38:00.000-07:00

On July 2, country legend Reba McIntyre christened the latest large ship to set sail the Norwegian Cruise Lines Epic. Industry insiders are comparing the 1200 passenger ship to Las Vegas. The vessel boasts 20 restaurants including an elegant French Bistro Le Bistro Restaurant, Cagney’s Steak House serving classic American beef dishes, the Manhattan Room designed to replicate a private NY supper club and several Asian and European restaurants. To complement the large selection of Free Style Dining, the Epic also features the first and only ice bar at sea. The Svedka Bar was inspired by the Scandinavian ice hotel concept and of course serves up a full menu of you guessed it vodka inspired delicacies.
Guests who want to experience something really unique can make reservations at the New Cirque Dreams & Dinner. This one of a kind dinner theatre is located in the Spiegal tent which was built on 2 decks of the Epic. The show features 16 performers and a cast of 15 – 20 servers that are also part of the show.
And that is not all. There is non stop entertainment throughout the ship. From state of the art beach parties, to the Blue Man Production, the Second City Comedy Show, Fat Cats Jazz Club, Legends in Concert or Howl at the Moon. For those seeking a more relaxed atmosphere the Epic is home to 9 unique bars including a Sake bar, a whisky bar and of course a martini bar. And if a Cuban cigar is what you seek there is a lounge to accommodate your pleasure. With all this stuff to do a Bon Vivant can spend a month on such a ship and never get bored.

New York City Eating – From High to Wallet Friendly

2010-06-15T18:55:00.000-07:00

You want to take a bite out of the Big Apple but don’t know where to begin? Worry not intrepid eater- there’s a world of choice out there alright, but I’ve taken the liberty of narrowing it down a bit with a few of my favourites that are tried and true. So wear stretchy pants- you’re gonna need them!

High:
Esca- The restaurant name means fish lure in Italian and makes some of the best Italian-inflected seafood outside of Bari. Head chef and fisherman (more like fish obsessed!) David Pasternack put the Italian coastal staple “Crudo” on the map after trying it for himself in la Bella Italia with business partner Mario Batali. Citrus dressed and finished with some exotic sea salts and olive oils- crudo is the freshest, most beautiful way to eat seafood aside from well-crafted sashimi or Latin American Ceviche. His house-made pastas always please too if you’re not so seafood adventurous (your loss I tell ya!). And yes, meats are also on the menu.
Porter House New York- I have TONS of respect for Chef Michael Lomonaco. Not only because the man used to helm the kitchen at Windows on the World in the former Twin Towers (he’s alive to tell the tale because he went in to get his glasses when the first tower was hit), but because he started a fundraising drive for his deceased staff’s family AND he’s an incredibly talented cook. Like steak? Then you’ll love Porter House where Lomonaco’s dry aging program renders choice cuts drool-worthy, grilled works of edible art.

Mid:
Rosa Mexicano- I don’t usually recommend chain restaurants – in fact, they usually give me a bad case of the hives. But, this is not your typical chain restaurant- it’s elegant Mexican that doesn’t do “Tex Mex” (amen!). Mexico’s own Chef Susana Trilling flies around the US teaching the restaurant’s head chefs how to make the meanest mole, the most perfect pipian and tremendous tamales so that lucky Americans can feel like they’ve flown to Oaxaca to eat at her cooking school. The table-side guacamole- made fresh before your every own ojos is also a thing of delicious beauty.

The Spotted Pig – British-born April Bloomfield worked alongside uber-celeb Jamie Oliver before he was a household name. She had to cook for co-owner Mario Batali before landing this gig to prove her salt. Her culinary chops knocked ‘em dead and she was hired post haste. Gastropub fare using local, seasonal goodies that are infused with an Italo-Anglo touch is just the ticket for a hungry traveler. Her Banoffee Pie is a cult classic- which could explain why at 11:30pm at night, there was a line up outside the door and down the block. Call ahead first- you’ve been warned.

Cheap and Cheery:

Arepa Arepa- Venezuelan style arepas (the ultimate version of a sandwich made using white corn meal instead of bread) can be found in Brooklyn- accessible via subway so no excuses! For under ten bucks, you’ve got a feast fit for a king- robust arepas stuffed with anything from spicy chorizo, flakes of fish, chicken or skirt steak ribbons. Fried plantains and queso freso, a natural jugo and you’re good to go!

GROM Gelato- On Bleeker Street, you’ll find one of the Italian gelato makers only US outposts and you’ll be glad you did. Pistachio, Amalfi lemon, traditional Turinese Gianduja chocolate- these and other flavours will seduce the taste buds. You’ll feel like you’re in Florence without leaving the continent!

Ceviche - Who makes the best?

2010-05-28T12:37:00.000-07:00

Summer always makes me want to eat more seafood. Maybe it’s the fact I was born in Southern Italy and fish was plentiful in the summer and somehow it brings memories of unspoiled (they were when I was a kid many decades ago) beaches dotted with colourful umbrellas and the sweet smell of sun tan lotion. In Italy we ate fish plain grilled with some olive oil a squirt of lemon a bit of salt and pepper and voila dinner. Here is Canada we are blessed to have all kinds of seafood available all year long. But the only problem is it’s not the same as that fresh catch you get in the Med or the Caribbean. So in order to make the most of whatever seafood I might have around I love to prepare Ceviche. I chop up shrimp, scallops, and salmon and bathethe mixture in lime and lemon and lots of garlic. Then I refrigerated for a few hours and before you know it I have delicious ceviche my way. I love to serve it in martini glasses with a little parsley (never cilantro I HATE cilantro)

In the last few years ceviche has made its way on the menus of many restaurants and like myself every Chef or Cook creates their own version of this Peruvian dish. If you travel through South and Central America you will find hundreds of different versions of ceviche with each country claiming to make the best. In Panama they use mostly White Sea bass (corvina) and prepare it with lemon juice, chopped onions, celery, habanero peppers and sea salt. In Ecuador its shrimp ceviche made with tomato paste, lime juice and salt. In Chile it’s often made with halibut or Patagonian toothfish which is marinated in lime and grapefruit juices garlic and red chile peppers and my much hated cilantro is added. In Cuba they use mahi-mahi, lime juice, salt, onion, green pepper, habanero peppers and a bit of all spice. The mother country for Ceviche is Peru and here is one of the best Peruvian recipes provided by Chef and food writer Stephanie Ortenzi:

Ceviche Peruano (Serves 6)
An appetizer or late-night snack eaten with Pisco, the Peruvian brandy
600 gr halibut
3 large Scallops
1 small red onion, thinly julienned
juice of 12 limes, or enough to cover the fish
1 aji amarillo pepper finely diced
salt to taste
2 cobs of corn, boiled and cut in thirds
2 large sweet potatoes, boiled and into thirds

Cut the halibut and scallops equally into one-inch pieces.
Season with salt, cover with lime juice, and set the red onions on top.
Cover and refrigerate for about 30 minutes or until the fish has firmed up and becomes opaque.
When ready, drain and serve in cold bowls with corn and sweet potato to garnish.

Try it and as the Peruvians would say ‘Bon Provecho!)

Bon Vivant Hits the Road!

2010-05-27T18:38:00.001-07:00

Sort of...Our travel experts in the Vancouver area will be at the EAT! Vancouver Food + Cooking Festival this weekend to talk about our "Flavours of Tuscany" tour and other culinary trips that might tempt some tastebuds.

If you are in the Vancouver area and attending the show, please drop by booth #507 to say hello and participate in our contest for a Bertozzi imported italian food gift basket. All you have to do is have your picture taken in our "little Italy" scene featuring a red hot Vespa from Vespa Metro Vancouver and fill out a ballot. The best shots of the day will be posted on our facebook page if you want to have a peak at what we're up to.

Have a great weekend and we hope to see some of you at the show!

Casa de Los Sabores- Oaxacan for Food with Heart

2010-05-14T06:31:00.000-07:00

There’s an unimposing door on Calle Reforma in downtown Oaxaca that announces I’ve reached “Casa de Los Sabores” (or House of Flavours). Passing through the metal door, I enter a world where culinary history, tradition and Oaxacan staples meld under the canopied courtyard of Chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo’s much-lauded cooking school. Bougainvillea flowers shower the white cotton bands hanging over the brightly laid out dining room table as we gather around the spacious island to hear about what we’ll be making today. But first thing is first- it’s time to shop for our ingredients.

I’ve always said Mexican food is the original slow food. You can’t rush a good mole sauce any more than you can a braised roast. Chef Pili (as she’s often called by friends) walks our group to the neighbourhood market called La Merced where ingredients are explained and examined. Chickens the colour of sunflowers? That’s because they eat Marigolds as part of their diet. Every kind of chile- dried and fresh, herbs like the eponymous epazote which flavours sauces and soups (and is known to fight any parasite that might be lurking in your system- hey, this a multi-purpose herb!) are purchased and then, it’s back to the kitchen.

Our group starts by plucking organic rose petals from thorny stems for Pilar’s spectacular Rose Petal Sorbet. Delicately pink, flavoured with fresh and dry rose petals, a hint of rosewater and almonds, it’s refreshing and elegant at the same time. Then it’s on to searing and peeling peppers for the soup while the sorbet sets, making a fresh salsa with avocado and peppers, and the filling for the stuffed peppers. Everyone is put to work while a happy hum of activity surrounds us all.

The group’s efforts yield richly delicious rewards- a lunch fit for a Rey with the gurgling courtyard water fountain serenading us while Catrina papier machier dolls (symbolic of Day of the Dead celebrations near our Hallowe’en) watch on with toothy grins. A shot of mezcal (Oaxaca’s answer to tequila) starts us off and we enjoy an al fresco lunch in the cradle of Mexican culinary creativity. The Australians, Dutch, Canadians and Americans in our group all agree, this is one of the most memorable meals we’ve ever had.

La Petraia -True Tuscany, True Luxury

2010-04-30T07:55:00.000-07:00

Ethereal, fabled, stunning- these words dance around in my mind as we drive up the cyprus tree-lined path leading to La Petraia. A fully restored and expanded 12th Century farmhouse stands proudly in the distance while the bright purple blossoms of fragrant lavender beckons gently in the breeze, perfuming the air with nature’s aromatherapy. La Petraia, or “Place of Stone” is a special place, made all the more idyllic by Canadians Susan McKenna Grant and her husband Michael Grant.

The couple scoured a few continents for a place to call their own; it had to have architectural integrity, unpolluted land suitable for organic farming and it had to inspire in them a sense of wellbeing. In the rolling Tuscan countryside of Chianti Classico, they found these ideals and more.

After years of painstaking restoration, La Petraia is considered one of Italy’s best agriturismo destinations that also happens to be a bit of a hidden gem (until now). Bon Vivant travelers will get a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the life of this pristine working farm and what it takes to keep centuries-old Tuscan traditions alive. A guided tour of the organic gardens, olive groves and vineyards will wrap up with a walk past the forest where a special herd of Cinta Senese pigs might just “pose” for the camera. This classic heirloom breed (with their distinctive white band or collar) dangerously dipped in numbers until recently when folks like Susan started breeding the free range forest pigs, prized for their rich, lean flavour.

After working up an appetite, the group will be treated to a special “Afternoon Tasting.” Four courses of just-picked, farm-fresh fare will be created for you by Susan herself, who has studied with culinary greats in Italy and France. You’re in for a gustatory delight because I’ve had the pleasure of dining at La Petraia and had one of the finest meals of my entire stay in Tuscany that night.

Tuscan wines will be paired with each course and if you’re lucky, you’ll end your afternoon savouring a piece of heaven on earth as the rose-tinted sun sets over the ancient, verdant hills. And the best part? You’ve got three more days of exploring the region before saying arrivederci to Italia.

Getting Giddy over Tuscan Wines

2010-04-23T13:40:00.000-07:00

For most people, a trip to Tuscany takes in the glory of Florence, the stature of Pisa and (maybe) the unique towers of San Gimignano. While all of these sites capture the imagination and offer an insight into both Italian history and culture, none of them fully encompass the essence of Tuscany. For this you must venture outside the city wall into the fame rolling hills of the countryside. You need to get a little dirt under your fingernails.

For me,Tuscany is a very sensual place, and not in a creepy way. The sun shines differently here and brings everything into sharper focus. The air is perfumed with the herbs growing wild in the hills around you. The sounds of animals are everywhere and birds welcome the morning with their song. OK. I know that was overkill. There is some truth to it though.

There is a special texture to the grape vines and olive groves that seem to line every road and adorn every hillside.

These two also supply the flavour of Tuscany. There is no greater gluttonous joy than simple bread with fine olive oil drizzled atop and a Brunello from Montalcino or a Chianti with which to wash it down. The bright acidity found in the Sangiovese grape makes it the perfect match for the richness of fine olive oil. It is also a wonderful accompaniment to the cured meats and risottos that fill local plates and bellies. It is amazing that in such a highly populated country, there is so much open countryside. Now, granted, you might have to watch your step if it is hunting season, but the fact remains that there is more than enough space and fresh air to go around.

I don't know whether it is the Italian sense of humour or the shear joy of being there, but I have one other sense of Tuscany that I would like to share. I don't remember laughing so much for a long time. I seem to laugh for no reason. There are two possible reasons. The first is that I love the Tuscan countryside. The second is that I am barking mad. I will leave you to be the judge next time you are there."

Modena’s Balsamic Vinegar- One of the World’s Sexiest Condiments

2010-04-19T10:17:00.000-07:00

Few things say Modena, in Italy’s northern Emilia Romagna region more proudly and deliciously than a fine Aceto Balsamico (balsamic vinegar). And few have been making it for as long or as well as the Giusti family at the Gran Deposito Aceto Balsamico di Modena Giuseppe Giusti. A mouthful? Yes, but it sounds as seductive as it tastes.

Bon Vivants from across Canada taking a bite out of The Flavours of Tuscany tour will be guided through the gran deposito by the charming Claudio Stefani, a 17th generation descendant of Giuseppe Giusti himself. In fact, his family is credited with being the first to record the balsamic vinegar recipe in history and it doesn’t hurt that these vinegars are also listed in the book “101 Things to Buy Before You Die” as a must-try.

Deep burgundy in colour, luscious and infinitely complex, Giusti balsamic vinegars are like a rare, edible historical artifact that are meant to be savoured like a fine wine. Using generations-old barrels, the vinegars start out as grape must that is aged and reduced over years in the family’s beautifully appointed facility in Modena. Take a step back in time as you are guided by Claudio himself into the prized cellars where “Il Profumato” (the perfumed one), the Giusti White Label “Il Classico” or my favourite, the 10 year old “Il Denso” – which as its name suggests is sweet, thick, and sexy- are all created. A sampling of all five “Historical Collection” balsamic vinegars as well as two of the family’s “Traditional Balsamic Vinegars” will be lead by Claudio on site.

For the culinary curator, there’s the prized “Scrigno – Giusti Complete Collection” containing all five Giusti balsamic vinegars. The collection came to be as a special request from the late tenor Luciano Pavarotti. He asked for a unique prize that could be donated for a Red Cross charity auction in December 4th 2006 in Modena. The vinegar set sold for a handsome € 1100. Today, you can pick up a set of your own for a more moderate €180.

And since the Flavours of Tuscany tour is about giving travelers an intimate taste of the culinary landscape in that part of Italy, the group will head over to the Locanda delle Quattro Stagioni for a bespoke lunch featuring Giusti’s various balsamic vinegars. There’s nothing quite like a well-made ravioli drizzled with a thick and deeply intense balsamic vinegar to elevate a dish to Mount Vesuvius proportions. And this is just a taste of things to come.

The Bon Vivant Tour of Tuscany: an intimate food & wine adventure

2010-04-14T13:38:00.000-07:00

Bon Vivants it’s the moment we have been waiting for….. our first exclusive culinary adventure. We have enlisted the help of our blogger Mary Luz and she has put together an amazing journey into the ‘real’ Tuscany. For those of us who read ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ and are driven by the dream that maybe some day we too can live in an old palazzo and spend our days strolling the town’s markets buying fresh local ingredients, sipping espresso in the piazza with our neighbours, and then make our way back home to slowly prepare that sacred meal of the day, that eventually we will enjoy on our terrazza, savouring a glass of Chianti and taking in the beauty of the countryside. Well for those who decide to join us on this intimate tour each day will bring these types of experiences.

In the next few weeks Mary Luz will bring this tour to life for us. She will share her own personal experience of traveling through Tuscany with her husband Mario. Her idea of the ideal culinary adventure is to go off the beaten track and meet ‘real’ people who have been able to make their dreams and passions come true. To learn more about the Bon Vivant flavours of Tuscany Tour please visit our web site at www.bonvivanttravel.ca

Life on board the Queen Mary 2 is truly a foodies fantasy

2010-04-07T10:50:00.000-07:00

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to have a chef prepare all your meals? Once you get on a Cunard Cruise, you don’t have to wonder anymore.

Where dining is always an adventure, Cunard Cruises menus are overseen by none other than Chef Jean-Marie Zimmermann, the recipient of a prestigious Michelin-star. Each recipe and dish gets his stamp of approval before any guests get to taste it, so you can be sure that your every on-board meal meets the highest standards.

This Alsatian-born chef grew up on the apron strings of his grandmother, where he first honed his culinary skills. From there, it’s been a non-stop journey to chef stardom as he rose through the kitchen ranks, stopping only for the occasional accolade or laurel. Although his career started in the town of Strasbourgh, he has plated meals in Cannes, Juan Les Pins, Monte Carlo and London. He has competed and come out with gold medals at the Culinary Olympics, which are hosted every four years in Erfurt Germany, placing him among the leaders in his trade, worldwide.

It was Zimmermann’s time as proprietor of his own restaurant in Berkshire, England called “The Warrener” that earned him his Michelin star, but when chef Zimmermann decided to write a cookbook, it was about the cuisine that has now captured his attention.

The cookbook titled “Queen Mary 2 Ocean Liner Cuisine” lets guests of the cruise line take home a visual reminder, through its photography of their dining experiences on-board. It also lets them try to recreate some of the spectacular meals in their own kitchens.

On board the Queen Mary 2, there are 10 dining options, ranging from sophisticated upscale dining and Mediterranean cuisine to pub and patio fare. If you fancy a spot of tea, the Queen’s Room serves a proper British Tea complete with finger sandwiches and scones. Keep your eye for the Todd English restaurant, the namesake eatery of Cunard’s other claim to culinary fame, the Boston-bred chef.

The dishes at Todd English reflect a taste of Maine with a strong penchant for seafood like a Maine Crab Cake with Todd’s Fiery Sweet and Sour Tomato Sauce and a Ricotta Gnudi and Brown Butter Lobster served with Zucchini and toasted Hazelnuts.

No matter which way you look at it, the food on board these ships is tasty enough, that you may not want to leave for your shore excursions. But when you do disembark, you’ll undoubtedly be reassured that the food onboard is without a doubt world-class, no matter where you sail.

When Stars Get in Your Eyes

2010-03-29T06:58:00.000-07:00

A few years back, when my husband and I decided to travel to Europe together for the first time, we started our journey in London, England. Grand architecture, gleaming gold statues of historical figures and a bustling city with a myriad of accents greeted us. We indulged our fish and chip hankering, wondered at the marvels at the TATE Modern Museum and traversed the Thames a few times in our quest to fit in as much as humanly possible in three short days.

Travelling on the Canadian dollar can make London seem a little steep (or “dear” as locals like to say), but every once in a while, you just have to stop the calculator in your brain from converting every pound and live a little. With this spirit in mind, we found ourselves at the hallowed halls of Harrods- that stately purveyor of fine goods that has some of the most impressive “food halls” I’ve ever laid eyes on.
We pass the high-end cosmetics and perfume counters and made a B-line for the abundant showcases of gorgeously prepared and fresh foods. It’s there that I spot a woman clad in black- from head to toe. A black skull and cross bone bandana worn over long raven tresses, sunglasses, leather jacket and yes, black velour track pants proclaiming “Juicy” across her backside. I look carefully from behind a mountain of tropical fruit at her chiseled features and I think “I’ve seen that face before.” It isn’t until we wait to be served at the deli counter (Mario spots game Biltong- a dried, jerky type of meat from South Africa that he loves) that I realize I’m standing next to Cher!

So much for being incognito- everyone and their butler soon realizes it’s her although no one says a word about it- that would be gauche. Once Cher’s 500 grams of green peppercorn German salami has been thinly sliced, packed and handed to her, she makes her way to the check-out and into the next food hall - perhaps to an awaiting limo.

I wonder what she’ll do with the various kinds of salami she’s purchased (must have been 7 or 8 kinds)? Mario and I imagine it’s for canapés or an appetizer platter for an informal get together at her London-based pied-à-terre in some tony St. Johns Wood address. We laugh at our folly, pick up a few treats of our own and join the post-work crowds filling up the streets. We find a quiet park bench a short walk away and dig into our impromptu picnic. It’s no high end pied-à-terre, there aren’t any celeb pals to feast with, but to us, under the canopy of an old oak tree, it feels like we’ve won a lottery!

Happy St. Patrick's Day!! Join me for a Guiness...

2010-03-16T13:58:00.000-07:00

I was born on St. Patrick’s Day. This means I never have trouble finding a party on my birthday, even if one hasn’t found me. When in Ireland, the locals even take a holiday in my honour.

Although I had no trouble adapting to the ‘warm’ beers of England, getting my brain around the creamy heads of the Irish brews was quite another matter. You will rarely find me with a pint of Harp, Smithwick's or Kilkenny. There is of course, one exception.

When Arthur Guinness started brewing in 1756, he could not have known that his influence would fuel drunken revelry and a series of international bars with dubious links to Mother Ireland.

It is said that the best pints of Guinness are to be had in Ireland and at the brewery itself, in particular. Whether this is true or simply a state of mind, it does seem to taste ‘fresher’ at the Guinness Storehouse at St. James's Gate in Dublin. Also, I like the little shamrock they can make in the head. On St. Patrick’s Day you get in for free if your name is Patrick. Your date of birth won’t help you. Still, with DJs, street performers, live bands and food, it is a pretty good deal for 15 Euros.

You will often see the claim that ‘Guinness is Good for You’ and there is rumour that one glass of orange juice, two glasses of milk and 47 pints of Guinness a day supplies all your nutritional needs. The only question is how long you can survive alcohol poisoning and all those bathroom breaks.

The other great thing about Guinness is that, no matter how much food dye you add, it won’t turn from black to green. I mean, green beer, how tacky is that?

Whatever your pint of choice, please be sure to drink responsibly. I know, that will make you stand out on a day famous for stomach pumping and embarrassing dancing, but you will thank me for it on the 18th.

This advice makes me think not of a Guinness ad but one for a great Brewery in Southern Wales. The beer is called Brains SA and their decades-long advertising campaign is very simple and carries a nice double meaning.

‘It’s Brains You Want.’

This is rather undermined by the locals telling everyone that the ‘SA’ stands for ‘Skull Attack’, but you get the idea.

Have a wonderful St. Paddy’s Day and may the road rise up to meet you.

Irish Food Beyond the Stew and Pub Fare

2010-03-10T08:10:00.000-08:00

To fully experience this new dawn of delicious Irish Food, travellers must head to the quaint coastal town of Kinsale (from the Irish, Ceann tSáile - 'Head of the Sea'), just under an hour’s drive west of Cobh. Dubbed “the Culinary Capital of Ireland”, Kinsale, with its brightly painted cottages, yacht-filled harbour, and highest concentration of quality restaurants anywhere in the country, enjoys a well-deserved reputation for its gourmet restaurants serving the most exquisite locally-caught seafood.

Devoted foodies and the casual fine food admirer alike can savour mouth-watering dishes at Kinsale restaurants such as the Fishy Fish Cafe with its skate wing and samphire – deliciously tender salty asparagus-like stalks – served with capers and chanterelles, Hake with a fennel purée and coriander buttered clams, or breast of duck with caramelised apples and Calvados at Toddies. Both the Fishy Fish Café and Toddies, whose fresh menus change daily, were honoured as top 100 Irish restaurants in the prestigious Bridgestone Irish Food Guide.

Kinsale’s International Festival of Autumn Flavours, held every October, presents the food lovers with a delectable treat, showcasing the best of the town’s restaurants through tastings of fresh seafood, world cuisine and traditional Irish cooking. This world famous festival is the time when the town greets visitors from across the world with the Gaelic phrase “Céad Mile Fáilte” or “One Hundred Thousand Welcomes”.

An hour east of Kinsale past Cobh lies Shangarry, a small village known for The Ballymaloe Cookery School, one of Europe’s finest. Ballymaloe claims to be the only cookery school in the world located in the middle of its own 100-acre organic farm and strictly adheres to the principles of modern Irish cuisine – fresh ingredients locally grown, the use of seasonal produce and awareness of environmental impact.

65 Chefs at Sea

2010-03-01T08:06:00.000-08:00

Holland America Cruise lines is taking top chefs from kitchens and restaurants all around the world and inviting them on board, this year, more than 65 guest culinary experts are participating in the hugely successful program. Culinary notables this season include Bravo-TV’s “Top Chef” contender, Nikki Cascone; Mark Bittman, food columnist for The New York Times and award-winning cookbook author; and Keith Coburn, television personality of the hit series, “Deadliest Catch.”

The line’s complimentary demonstration classes are only one feature of the extensive culinary enrichment program, there is also a one-hour food-and-mixology demonstration, wine tasting and party-planning sessions, ice carving and floral arranging workshops and hands-on cooking classes for kids. A new feature in the line’s culinary program is Dine with the Chef held in the Culinary Arts Center. A combination of a cooking demonstration and a fine-dining experience, guests sit at elegantly set tables and interact with the chef as he or she prepares a five-course dinner in which each served course is paired with an appropriate wine.

A permanently installed, state-of-the-art “show kitchen at sea,” the Culinary Arts Centers resemble the elaborate show kitchens used by celebrity chefs on television cooking programs. Each facility features a theater-style venue, with two large video screens to display overhead and close-up video views of food preparation, and a large cooking display counter where guests can learn from the masters.

Sweet Temptations in Paris

2010-02-23T07:19:00.000-08:00

Paris. Just the name of the city itself evokes images of a fog-enveloped walk along the Seine or of lovers embracing near the Eiffel Tower. In most every traveler’s mind, “The City of Lights” is synonymous with architecture, haute couture and haute cuisine. And while you can easily spend your retirement savings on a seared-in-the-brain gustatory experience in the city that celebrates food like few others, there are a few more reachable culinary heights that mere mortals lacking the foie-gras-rich expense account can attain. Warning: some of them can even come with a side of near-religious inducing euphoria- especially if you’ve got a sweet tooth like me!
One of my personal favourites is a leisurely afternoon tea, replete with a rainbow palette of macarons at the institution of macarons, Ladurée Tea Salon. Far from the chewy, coconut clusters we call “macaroons” here in North America, French macarons are delicate meringue and almond flour “cookies” filled with a decadent ganache in the chewy centre. There’s a macaron to please most any palate ranging from pistachio, blackcurrant-violet, coffee, raspberry, rose petal, hazelnut praline, bitter chocolate and red fruits. I was smitten by the coffee and the bitter chocolate, but one bite of the salted butter caramel and I was in awe.
While macarons are heady stuff, the big shot pastry of Paris in my estimation is the Religieuse (aka, nun in French- named after a nun’s habit). For this, I’d follow my nose to any good pastry shop and source two cupola-like puff pastry domes filled with a flavoured crème patissière that can vary in flavour from orange blossom, caramel or rose to tomato- it is after all a fruit. The top dome (or head) is affixed with a good buttercream or Chantilly cream. Perfectly light pastry that’s delicately iced and studded with fresh strawberries (in my dessert’s case) in the middle- it was the most seductive of desserts.
My pet theory, as proven by this experience and my Caelum rendezvous as noted in my Barcelona post is the following: nuns make sweet, decadent, and even downright sexy temptations much like a painter who has never been caressed might produce the most erotic nude. I don’t mean any disrespect, but if you’ve ever sampled the nuns of Italy’s Medici Rose Elixir then you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. I’m not sure if the Religieueses I’ve sampled were developed by nuns- but their namesake affiliation alone makes me raise an eyebrow and smile parce que c’est merveilleuse any way you slice it.

Swiss Bliss

2010-02-17T13:44:00.000-08:00

Some people would have you believe that I only like expensive wines and I’m out of touch with reality. They only say that because they know me. However, today I want to talk about drinking ordinary wine in an extraordinary place.

My girlfriend (now wife) and I were living in the UK when we met, so our first visit to any of her relatives was not here in Canada, but in Valais in Switzerland where her cousins had a little chalet. I brought along some really good red burgundy to impress them.

To be honest, I had no interest in visiting Switzerland and only went to make her happy. It was one of the best decisions I’ve made. The town of Vercorin in Valais is nestled in the Alps within easy reach of the Matterhorn and the Italian border. The Rhone River runs beneath its feet on the way to France and vinous fame. It is simply one of the most beautiful places on earth.

If you have an able body and a little energy, then do as I did and go walking here in the late Spring or early Summer. The mountain streams still hug onto the last remnants of snow and the crisp mountain air refreshes as it cools.

The local Herens cattle are famous for fighting each other in the spring to establish herd dominance. When I was there, the crowd was disappointed to find them in mainly good spirits rather than butting heads. I was happy for them.

Valais also has the largest wine industry in Switzerland. These are some of the highest vineyards in Europe at about 1,000 metres and offer some very cool views. You can discover two distinct and unique wines. The first is Fendant, which is a gentle and crisp white made from the Chasselas grape. (No, you are not meant to have heard of it.) The second is Dole, a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir that makes a soft and juicy red, perfect for the local cuisine.
The cuisine of choice is Raclette, which we enjoyed on a summers evening in the garden overlooking the neighbouring mountains. Raclette is a cheese wheel you melt over a grill and shave onto plates to serve with potatoes and pickles and dried meats. It is every bit as good and fattening as it sounds. Local cheese and local wine is a fantastic combination. It nearly made up for them taking the much more expensive burgundy to their cellar never to be seen again. Ah, family!

If Switzerland is in your plans this year Globus Tours has a tantalizing tour What’s Cooking in Switzerland led by Burt Wolf, the host of the public television series Travels & Traditions.

Let's talk chocolate

2010-02-12T07:22:00.000-08:00

When Valentine’s Day rolls around, there’s only one language my husband needs to speak to get my attention. No I’m not referring to the language of love, but rather, the language of chocolate.

Second only to my husband, chocolate is the great love of my life, so much so that last year, after buying me chocolate from a chain store, my husband decided that it was not a good enough Valentine’s Day gift and trekked half way across the city to get me some other chocolate from a boutique chocolatier. I ate both happily, I’m not that much of a snob.

If there’s one place in this world where my chocolate consumption would be regarded as normal, it’s Switzerland. The country boasts the highest rate of consumption per capita (more than 11 kilograms a year per person) for this decadent treat. And who can blame them? Swiss chocolate is recognized as some of the world’s best. No the Swiss didn’t discover chocolate, and they weren’t the first to mass produce it even. But they did give it that smooth, melt in your mouth texture that makes this confection into something almost sinful. A chocolatier by the name of Lindt (sound familiar?) invented the technique to refine chocolate and elevate it even further.

But if you want to get the root of chocolate history in Switzerland, it’s the Cailler-Nestlé factory you want to visit. First you hop aboard the Chocolate train (yes, there is a chocolate train!) to get there. OK, so it’s not made of chocolate, but you get to ride in a Pullman Belle Epoque train, circa 1915 as you head off towards your ultimate chocolate destination. It’s like a Swiss version of Charlie and Chocolate Factory fantasy. Well, things won’t get that crazy, but you get to sample the goods while you’re in the factory. That’s right, once you get to the sample station, there are chocolates a plenty to try, so make sure to indulge in as many varieties as you care too. And you leave with an armful of chocolate when you visit the Cailler store on your way out.

In fact this year, in April a whole new visitors’ centre will open that will explore everything from the Aztecs chocolate secrets to the link between Cailler and the French Royal Court. And you’ll also find out about how the Swiss made the first milk chocolate by adding Gruyère milk to the confection and transforming it forever.

Of course, if you’re more of a traditionalist and want to try chocolate, a little closer to how the Aztecs had intended it, check out this recipe. Note, I said “a little closer”. I’m sure the Aztecs didn’t add Cognac to theirs.

1 litre 35 per cent cream
250g of dark chocolate (65 to 70 per cent dark)
Whole spices are better here, because you can strain them out.
1 small piece of fresh ginger,
1 dried red chili,
2 cloves,
about 10 black peppercorns,
1 bay leaf and
1 piece of star anise.
Cognac

Put the spices in a saucepan with the cream. Bring to a boil, reduce and simmer for 3 minutes. Turn off heat, cover and let sit for 1 hour to infuse.

Strain out spices and reheat cream. In a large bowl, break up the chocolate, adding a bit of the cream, when warm to start melting. Add more cream, a little at a time to temper chocolate. Once all cream is incorporated, return to saucepan to keep warm. Before serving add cognac to taste.

Buffalo, NY- Beyond the Chicken Wing

2010-02-10T14:26:00.000-08:00

I know what you’re going to say; that Buffalo is a chicken-wing, sports-lovin’ town with great shopping and not much else, right? But if that’s all you know about “The City of Good Neighbors” as it’s called (with the appropriate American spelling), then you’d be missing more than half of the delectable picture.

On a recent reconnaissance trip to Buffalo, I had the good fortune of meeting passionate food folks who want to change Buffalo’s culinary image from its oft-touted fast-food-for-sports-fans town to something a little more decidedly delicious. And you know what? They’re doing it – in spades!
Dinner with Buffalo food doyenne Christa Glennie-Seychew at Sample Restaurant was a night to remember. Plate after small plate of what Chef Adam Goetz calls “a cocktail party at your table” arrived, featuring playful takes on Buffalo standards like the beef on weck for instance. There’s tons of attention to detail here from the former Waldorf Astoria chef, who takes a bar chef approach to cocktails and insists on just about everything being made from scratch.

Then there’s the former local rocker turned butcher and his lovely wife Beth at Spar European Sausage and Meats, where even the souvenir T-Shirts can be “smoked” and vacuum packed for that extra pork-scented effect. All fun aside, Spar’s landjaeger was a hit, and as a nod to the large Polish community in the city, there’s plenty of double smoked Polish sausage with or without marjoram, as well as Ukrainian Kabanossy to choose from. The gang at Spar takes their meats seriously – and that kind of quality in a town that loves sausages, hand cut chops and steaks is a good thing!

One blustery morning at the Bidwell Farmer’s Market, located in the picturesque Elmwood Neighbourhood, netted an invaluable find: White Cow Dairy’s yoghurt and fermented dairy drinks. My favourite? Maple yoghurt that tastes subtly of pure, reduced tree-tapped sap, without unpronounceable words on the ingredients list and that isn’t overly sweet…now THAT’s sweet!

If you’re an architecture buff, don’t miss the many fine remaining examples of self-professed “greatest architect that ever lived,” Frank Lloyd Wright. At the turn of the century, Buffalo was flush with industry and commerce. While many of the moneyed class were building Victorian mansions, others like Darwin D. Martin commissioned the timeless Prairie style homes by Wright that were considered beyond contemporary back then. The Darwin Martin home is a must-visit, and if you can get the longer tour that takes you upstairs, do.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t suggest a leisurely stop to the Albright-Knox Art Gallery – considered a “can’t miss” by the NY Times. Gaugin, Picasso, Warhol, Pollock and Jasper Johns pieces hang in a beautiful space that encourages meandering. Drop by MUSE Café for lunch as you look out to the statue garden in the patio and take in the Greek Revival building’s magnificence. I hate to be an “I-told-you-so”, but nary a chicken wing in sight – and the weekend was finger licking good!

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia, from top to bottom: Beef on Weck at Sample Restaurant; The sign that greets you upon arriving at Spar's; Albright-Knox Art Gallery.

If it's good enough for Louis Vuitton, it's worth a try.

2010-02-08T12:25:00.000-08:00

You would think it’s impossible for a foodie to not know about what is quite possibly the world capital of gastronomy. Unfortunately for me, I only learned about Lyon, with its internationally-renowned chefs like Paul Bocuse and its more than 40 outdoor food markets, after I came back from trip to France.

I had meticulously planned our trip, hitting Paris of course not for the food so much as the experience of being in the city of lights. Then it was off to Bordeaux. Had I known about Lyon, I might have skipped Bordeaux, since they are on opposite sides of France. However, I’m so glad I didn’t. The laid back atmosphere of the city, the quaint outskirts filled with farmers and the astonishing vineyards of the region were the highlight of my trip, even after seeing the Eiffel tower twinkling at night, which I have to admit is quite magical.

Bordeaux has been maligned, in my view, in many ways. Most people don’t realize that the area has numerous appellations of wine, 57 to be exact. Appellations such as ‘Pauillac,’ ‘Medoc,’ ‘Graves,’ ‘St. Emillion’ and ‘Sauternes’ are all from the Bordeaux area. The wines labelled “Bordeaux” are really just what is left from the crops after the winemakers have made their limit for the appellation on their property. The amount each “Chateau” can produce is strictly controlled, so any excess grapes cannot be sold under the appellation of that specific area. Instead, they are labelled Bordeaux. Since they don’t have the distinction of an appellation, they are sold a little cheaper, but don’t overlook this region as a wine destination, because it is worthy of a stop.

While in Ontario everyone is raving over ice wine right now, Sauternes, which I like to to think of the great-grandfather of icewine comes from the Bordeaux region. If you’ve ever tried a Sauternes you know it’s a dessert wine. But do you know how it’s made?
Primarily made of Semillion grapes, it is a blended wine that includes Sauvignon Blanc grapes and sometimes is blessed with a little Muscadel.

I say that the Sauternes is a distant relative of ice wine because the grapes, which must be hand-picked off the vines, just like our ice wine grapes, are also shriveled and dehydrated.
But it’s not the cold that shrivels grapes that end up your Sauternes wine. It’s a fungus that is indigenous the specific microclimate of the Sauternes region. Known as botrytis cinerea or noble rot, this is different from other conditions that would ruin the grapes. The thin skins of the Semillion grapes make them ideal as the fungus eats the skin which lends to the dehydration of the grapes.

This sweet, rich wine that often has a deep golden colour is a great pairing for foie gras, or other rich foods like terrines. Or enjoy it with dessert or as a digestif after dinner. Even Louis Vuitton has a majority stakehold in a Sauternes Chateau. The Chateaux Yquem, which is classified a “Premier Grand Cru,” one of the best of its kind, is owned by the designer label. Now, if it’s good enough for Louis Vuitton, isn’t it worth a try?

Bologna à la Biba

2010-02-05T07:34:00.000-08:00

I remember watching Biba Caggiano on TV in rapt fascination. There she was, whipping up regional, Italian dishes like gnocchi before anyone could even say the word, or biscotti when the twice-baked cookies were then unheard of here in Canada. I loved her lilting voice, her ease in the kitchen and how drool-inducing her dishes always looked. As a teen watching this from a living room in Hamilton, Ontario, I never in a thousand years imagined I’d one day be able to call the much-lauded chef up and say, “So, when I’m in Bologna, where should I go eat?”

One of the Grande Dames of Italian cookery residing in the United States today (she still helms the iconic Biba Restaurant in Sacramento, CA), Biba Caggiano is one of the best Italian exports North America ever received. She appeared as one of our profile subjects on the bio doc series, “At the Table With…” which is why I was lucky enough to get to know the woman behind the culinary prowess.

We started emailing a month or so before my Italian vacation began. Instead of emailing a few tips and favourite haunts, Biba, in her imitable, generous style, sent me a copy of her book instead. “Biba’s Italy- Favourite Recipes from Splendid Cities” is a treasure-trove of tried and true recipes and hidden gems; a must-have for anyone travelling to the big boot.

She not only sent the book, she hand wrote notes in the page margins and used her “x” rating system to denote good (x), very good (xx) and must go! (xxx). Bologna, in Emilia Romagna was where Biba was born and raised. She visits frequently with her husband Vincent, and her palate is in my estimation, not to be questioned. When Biba says a restaurant is xxx, I don’t argue.

My husband and I wandered the city streets until we came upon a xxx! location called “Papa Rè” that specializes in the region’s hearty dishes. Situated in a residential neighbourhood, Dante Casari and his daughter Barbara navigate the front of house effortlessly, serving some of the city’s more discerning diners. The sign out front says it’s a Trattoria- but that’s like calling The Ritz a motel. We introduce ourselves, as per Biba’s suggestion, as her friends, and we launch into one of the most memorable meals we had in Italy.

We thought we’d had good Bolognese – but nothing has ever approached the egg-enriched tagliatelle and reduced sauce that was served to us that night. Elegant and refined, this was more like a demi-glace- rich, layered but not too much of a good thing as it barely coated the pasta. We savoured our meal and finished off with some exceptional house made desserts and a thoughtful surprise from the owners- a glass of U’Pasa - a local dessert wine that had us both swooning in minutes. Just before leaving, Dante and Barbara present us with a foil-wrapped bottle to take with us back to Canada. A generous gesture that overwhelms us both.

So Biba- even though I lacked in manners by not sending you a hand-written Thank You card, I’m hoping you’ll accept this humble entry as my way of saying “Grazie Mile” for your thoughtfulness and generosity! May it be returned to you threefold, especially upon your next visit to that fabled “City of Towers” in which you were born.

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia. From top to bottom: As seen in our walk through Bologna; Exterior of Papa Re- notice the "trattoria" sign; Mario and I at Papa Re about to enjoy our first course. He has the elusive and delectable Bolognese pasta dish; Our glasses of U'Pasa wine and bottle.

Vino! Vino! Wherefore art thou Vino?

2010-02-03T07:23:00.000-08:00

Today I have been diverted by a comment I heard from a friend who didn’t like Verona. She hated all the clichés that I revelled in. I figure a cliché is only cliché because it is true.

Of course, there is no truth to the legend of Romeo and Juliet. These were the mental wanderings of an English playwright. God bless the Bard. Nonetheless, multitudes take a pilgrimage to Verona each year to view the famous balcony and cover the archway with banal graffiti.
That doesn’t mean it isn’t worth a visit. I might not believe that Jesus can be seen in a tortilla chip, but I still want to see the chip!

The great Roman amphitheatre still hosts opera and the medieval buildings and the winding streets of this ancient town all have their attractions, if that is what steals your heart.

My heart is given to Bottega del Vino.

Established in 1890 in the heart of Verona, it is a little small and a little cramped. The waiters, dressed in old-fashioned black and white, dance a ballet between the close knit tables and the expensive and precariously stacked stemware. The antique, hand-blown glass lights, hang low and add to the sense of wonder and fragility.

Start with the Sfilacci di Cavallo (Horse Meat with Oil and Lemon Dressing). For mains look at the Baccalà alla Vicentina (Codfish Stewed with Milk and Anchovies) or the Brasato all’Amarone. Actually, have whatever you want. I don’t care and that is not why you are there.

You are there for the 80,000 plus bottle cellar of Italian classics going back to before you were born. You are there for what is probably the best wine list in all of Italy. I know big wine lists are another kind of cliché, but it is the kind to which I can succumb.

Recently, I opted for the a Speri Amarone from the classic 1983 vintage and a stunning Sangiovese-based Marzieno from Fattoria Zerbina in Emilia-Romagna (I think it was 1988). The rest of the world is represented too, but when in Verona drink as the Veronese do and try an Amarone to finish up.

So I have to ask my friend as Dire Straits did:
Could it be be, babe, it was just that the wine was wrong? Juliet? Salute!

Photos from top to bottom: "the" famous balcony; one of the hand-blown glass chandeliers at Bottega del Vino.

Nerja and Frigliana

2010-02-01T07:22:00.000-08:00

A visit to my friend Sherri who lives between Nerja and Frigliana in Spain seemed like the perfect time to hang out and catch up with what she’s up to and maybe learn a little more about Spanish cuisine. I’m not all that familiar with Spanish food and she promised to show me some of her favourite dishes.

Before we head the supermercado to shop, we go to the beach for a paella lunch with friends. Given the year round fabulous weather in Nerja, it’s no surprise that everything is outside – the kitchen as well as the tables. The paella pans are a metre wide and there are three or four of them cooking away. The restaurant probably holds 200 people and we have to wait for seats. Nerja is filled with British ex-pats who obviously love the paella. I’m not so convinced.

I’m much happier in the supermercado where I can wander from aisle to aisle discovering all kinds of new foods. In the fish section I find vacuum sealed packages of smoked and dried tuna along with boquerones, anchovies, sardines, dried cod, calamari and frozen octopus. The cheese section holds an equally awesome selection as do areas filled with olive oils and wines!!

We make our way home, laden with bags of ingredients and make incredible (and incredibly easy) tapas with the dried tuna, the octopus, the calamari and the sardines. We make an equally easy Torta de San Juan – a cake with lots of olive oil and almonds. It’s all accompanied by a passable bottle of wine that I’ve selected. Turns out I know even less about Spanish wine then I do about the food. You know it’s bad when your non-drinking friends are telling you how to choose wine!

Anyway, we enjoyed the tapas and the torta all of which I’ve since made at home. But that was about all I learned about Spanish food because the rest of our time was spent cooking from Sherri’s newly acquired Bonnie Stern’s Friday Night Dinners. I guess you can take the woman out of Canada but you can’t take Canada out of the woman – or something like that.

Sweet, Cold Gold- Niagara’s Icewine Festival

2010-01-29T06:58:00.000-08:00

There’s a magical sort of alchemy to taking frozen grapes and turning them into Icewine. Wine makers and sommeliers explain that it’s not alchemy, that ice wine is the byproduct of having good grapes to work with, the right climate and a seasoned, wine-maker. I however, suspect there’s something much more to creating this nectar fit for the gods.

Inside the Gala with an Ice Sign

For two weeks in January, the Niagara region plays host to the highly anticipated Icewine Festival every year. Last year, I made the rounds to various vineyards using the festival’s “Discovery Pass” and braved an extreme freeze to sample numerous wines paired with sweet and savoury nibbles. This year, I switched the thermal wear for formal wear and attended the Xerox Icewine Gala at the Fallsview Casino and Resort in Niagara Falls.

Sparkling chandeliers and ice sculptures adorned the ballroom where wines from over twenty-five of Ontario’s wineries were on offer. Hernder Estates, Château des Charmes, Tawse Winery, Reif Estate Winery and Fielding Estate Winery were amongst the numerous purveyors offering sips of everything from sparkling to premium wines.

Reif Icewine Flight with local cheeses

I choose some bubbly from Château des Charmes and a plate of the evening’s standout dish- a rich risotto made with red wine and gorgonzola, topped with candied pecans. I grab a perch at a cocktail table and meet Joe and Beth, two Bostonians who for the past nine years, drive nine hours to get to the Icewine Festival! I had to know- why are they such festival stalwarts? Joe responds, “Because we love icewine! You don’t get anything like this where we’re from so we make sure to get our fill while we’re here.”

Candied apple desserts at the Gala

Fluke? Possibly until I meet Dr. Michael from Miami, Florida who, like my new pals from Boston, is an Icewine festival devotee. “The doctors at the hospital know not to mess with my Icewine Festival week. This week in January is MINE!” says Dr. Michael with a smile. Indeed- who would want to keep a man from his vino?

The next day, we visit Ravine, Reif, and Stratus vineyards. The food pairings at Ravine were outstanding! The owners’ son Paul, just back from a stage in Germany, made the best pork rillettes I’ve ever had, hands down. Wine consultant Peter Gamble explained the unique terroir of St. David’s bench and we sampled the fruits of the family’s labour of love. German-born Klaus Reif regaled us with four varieties of icewine- from a 2008 Riesling to a 2008 Cabernet Franc. But it’s the 2007 Vidal Icewine that most impresses my palate with lush tropical fruit off the top and a balanced acidity at the end that’s perfectly crisp.

Ravine Winter Vineyard in St. David's Bench

We end the day at the Twenty Valley Winter Winefest where open fires, more wine and food are on offer from this particular corner of the region. Sated and tired, I meander back to the car with words like “brix” (sugar present in wine) swirling in my mind. I know this is the science part of icewine making, but the smooth flavour of the Stratus Riesling icewine lingers, so I know it’s alchemy at work here. Maybe even some magic…

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia

Manchego - a new cheese plate favourite

2010-01-27T07:38:00.000-08:00

Last week when a friend put out a request over Facebook for a cheese suggestion to bring to a wine and cheese party, I quickly chimed and suggested Manchego. Turns out, I wasn’t the only one to suggest it, in fact, two other people made the same recommendation.

I have to say I was pleased to see the surgence in popularity for this Spanish cheese that I discovered during a visit to one of my favourite cheese places in Toronto. Maybe it’s the growing popularity of tapas in the city, where Manchego is served up with a ‘dulce de membrillo’ (a quince paste, another Spanish delicacy), that has made this cheese climb the culinary social ladder.

Regardless, it’s one you’ll want to get familiar with, and not just so that when it makes an appearance on a cheese plate you can wow your friends with your knowledge of international dairy products. It is a tasty nutty flavoured hard, ripened cheese that makes a tasty addition to a Spanish inspired antipasto plate-- try pairing it with some Serrano ham and almonds-- or is just great on its own, with a light drizzle of honey, or a side of fruit.

True Manchego is only made in ‘La Mancha’ region of Spain, from the milk of sheep pastured on the plateau that sits 600 metres above sea level. Like many European products, it is a protected appelation, meaning that only cheese created in that specific region, made in the same traditional fashion can be called Manchego. It is distinctive in that the outside rind is quite dark, almost black, and bears a crisscross pattern, as defined by the grass molds that are used to hold the cheese in the ripening process. The history of this cheese is rich, and is recorded, even in popular culture as early as the early 1600s. Dubbed the cheese of Don Quixote, the cheese is mentioned by name in the classic Spanish novel by Miguel Cervantes Don Quixote de la Mancha. The area has demarquated a “Don Quixote Trail” that traces the travel of this knight in the novel, along the way, you’ll see a tribute to some of the areas other agricultural contributions in the form of ancient windmills—a nod to the cereal that is grown in this grassy land.

Now, if you’re fortunate enough to be in Spain, you’ll want to try Manchego the way the locals like it, with Miel de la Alcarria, another protected designation but this time for honey made from bees that feed on the flowers of rosemary or lavender, or a combination of both. Top it all off with a glass of Riojas wine, and well, you’ve got a reason to hop on the next flight to Madrid. If you go, don’t forget to bring me back some honey, and tuck one of the area's most sought after spices—safron—in your luggage for the journey home.

Photos from top to bottom: Manchego cheese, with its trademark crisscross pattern; windmills in the La Mancha region of Spain.

Perso in Italia (Lost in Italy)

2010-01-25T08:19:00.000-08:00

The joy of visiting wineries in Italy is somewhat tempered by the difficulty. The problem is finding them. Last blog, I gushed over the wonderful wines of Fattoria di Felsina. Now let me tell you what I had to go through to get to them and offer a little advice.

The first trick is renting a car. I travel a great deal so I have one of those credit cards that insures you against traffic accidents and a nuclear holocaust. Check your own coverage and if you are not sure get insurance when you are in Italy. I have vivid memories of drivers slowing down for green lights in Napoli because others were racing straight through the reds. Tuscany is not so bad, but I had my wits about me. They do not suffer fools or tourists gladly. I was driving a ‘stick’ and this sharpened my senses, but if there was space it was filled and if there was a speed limit it was broken, so I woke up!

I rented in Livorno and even with an optional G.P.S., I was lost before I left the city. Here’s an example. I got close Sienna. As soon as I was within striking distance I came to a four-way intersection. The three arrows going in opposite directions all said ’Sienna’. There is a one way street on the outskirts of Volterra that I think they have now renamed after me, because I visited so often.

Get directions and a map to any estate you are visiting and keep their phone number. I finally made it to Castelnuovo Berardenga, but took another 20 minutes and three wrong turns to find the estate. Like most Italian estates worth visiting, there is no signage to tell you where it is. Give yourself 20% more time than you could possibly need.

Always have the phone number in case you get hopelessly lost. Firstly they may be able to give you the practical directions you need. Secondly, and this is vital, if you are not able to make it you have to tell them. There is a reason I had to make an appointment. A team member has given up their day off to meet me. Not calling is disgracefully rude and it can ruin someone’s day. You will not be welcomed back if you do this.

Photos: Out and about in Fattoria di Felsina

Dobar Tek- Croatian for Bon Appétit!

2010-01-21T13:04:00.000-08:00

I speak Croatian like a one year old. Despite my best efforts, my Romance Language hard-wired brain (native tongue is Spanish), just doesn’t want to jive with my husband’s Slavic lingo. I can say bread, cheese, meat and cake with the best of them in Croatian - interspersed with a please and a thank you. That held me in good stead as we travelled through Croatia recently (he’s a fluent speaker so I didn’t have to say too much) - a beautiful country that in parts looks the spitting image of Italy’s Tuscany at a fraction of the price. And yes, the food and wine are as good!

There is a major food distinction to be made in Croatia. Inland cuisine features a “Continental” style repertoire with hearty meat, potato and bean dishes for example. On the coast, dishes lighten up and feature seafood, olive oil and other Mediterranean delights. Within short proximity of each other, we were happily able to sample both.

We started in inland Istria- an area of Croatia that used to belong to Italy. Signage in this part of the country is both in Croatian and Italian with towns like Umag are also known as Umago. And coincidentally, inland Istria is also home to the Croatian truffle. One fine day, Giancarlo Zigante’s dog Diana found the Guinness World Record-holding truffle weighing in at a lofty 1,310 kg! That was November 1999 near the sleepy town of Livade- which now boasts of one of the finest restaurants in the area belonging to Zigante whose specialty is of course (drum roll please) the truffle! Weighed before being delicately shaved over fish, soups and roasted meats- this earthy, sensual delight is in no short supply here and is as good as the Piedmontese varieties. In fact, a lot of truffle I saw on a recent trip to Italy was from Croatia, just packaged in Italy! Dear reader, I’m effusive, but not prone to too much exaggeration. I was as surprised as you are.

The day after celebrating our wedding anniversary at Zigante’s and dining like royalty (truffle even in our dessert!), we drove to the home town of one of the grande dames of Istrian cuisine, Lidia Bastianich (restaurateur, chef, cookbook author and TV show host). The sea-side city of Pula greeted us with an afternoon sun that illuminated the ancient amphitheatre with every shade of gold. Spectacular columns and Roman statues proudly flanked what was once a public gathering space; a crisp blue sky playing background to its majesty.

We walked to the waterside promenade- The Riva- where locals suggested we try just caught fish and a local specialty- blitva. Boiled potatoes, wilted swiss chard, caramelized garlic gently bathed in a light olive oil makes the most perfect partner to a piece of freshly grilled brancin (or sea perch) with a glass of fabulous local Malvasia wine. It was all I could do to muster a sincere “Puno hvala” (thank you very much) to our suntanned server who smiled at my kid-like attempt to speak his language. In mid-stride, he stopped, turned around and in stilted English replied “You are very welcome! Come back and visit us again.” You can count on it!

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia, from top to bottom: Zigante Trgovina, where tourists and locals alike fine truffle cream, truffle oil, olive oil, Malvasia wine; Our server slices the whisper thin truffles onto our dish. The REAL deal!

There's always time for tapas

2010-01-19T11:41:00.000-08:00

My interests when travelling are pretty broad – I can wander through archaeological sites and ancient cities, hike through rainforests and canoe down jungle rivers. I can lose myself in museums and orchid gardens.

But wherever you find me and whatever I’m doing, food is never far from my mind – trying local restaurants and street food stalls, exploring the local markets and grocery stores, taking cooking classes to learn about traditional foods, visting local food festivals – no matter how big or small. If there’s a food angle you’ll find me there.

So last year when I finally made plans to spend a couple of days in Sevilla I planned to go tapas hopping. My friends warn that it’s Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) and I won’t find a hotel. Armed with a list of recommendations I begin the long process of finding of a room. My first call to my first choice yields a room. I guess Las Casas de la Juderia (The Houses of the Jews) isn’t a big seller during Semana Santa.

We arrive in late afternoon, walk around the neighbourhood planning how to see everything we want to see in the next two days. We decide to hit one tapas bar and make it an early night. We start with sangria and then order small plates of boquerones, calamares, anchovies, tortilla, chorizo, olives and almonds.

I know about the religious processions held during Semana Santa and certainly intend to see one while in Sevilla. Turns out every church has its own procession and there’s a schedule published. As we walk towards the church, the streets are lined with people and every balcony is filled with people. As the procession rounds the corner we’re amazed to see thousands of participants in outfits similar to, but not to be mistaken for those worn by Ku Klux Klan members. (We’d been told about them, but it’s hard to imagine until you’re there).

Each procession has two ‘floats’ (one with Jesus and the Cross, the other the Madonna) that are carried throughout the neighbourhood by 20 or more people. It’s a huge honour to carry the float but also a huge responsibility. In one place they had to all crouch down to be able to get under an overhead pass. And, although there are police everywhere keeping the crowds back, people are always breaking through and closing in on the floats.

It was just an amazing experience and everyone should try to visit during Semana Santa. And, don’t worry, I know where you can get a room.

The Heart of Tuscany

2010-01-15T11:38:00.001-08:00

There is something in the air of Tuscany. I know. I am trying to avoid all those trite clichés that you read everywhere and that inspired my Dad to get Tuscan-style tiles in his living-room. To this day, I have no idea what is Tuscan about them, other than the sales pitch. Nonetheless, the place itself is magical. Some love the rolling hills, some the cuisine and some the idyllic towns that dot the landscape.

You’ll never guess what I love.
I love the wine.

The Brunellos of Montalicino and the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano have stolen all the recent fame, but my heart still belongs to Chianti and its heart, Chianti Classico. The Classico region is in the centre of Chianti and holds the greatest of its vineyards to its bosom.
Forget about the straw covered fiasco bottles.
Producers were allowed to use a little of the Canaiolo Nero grape and even the white grapes Trebbiano and Malvasia, but now the better producers are focusing entirely on the noble Sangiovese which also makes Brunello.

Fattoria di Felsina straddles the southern border of Classico where it meets Chianti Colli Senesi (one of the seven other sub-zones within Chianti). It is a hell of a drive from Livorno, but I will tell you about that next week. For me this is the standard for all things Tuscan. This beautiful estate is dotted with the requisite crumbling monastic buildings. It is large enough to incorporate vast olive groves that produce the finest olive oils I have ever tasted. They breed their own animals and grow wheat to make bread. They have game for hunting and a vegetable garden.

All of this caught my attention, but it was the 2007 Chianti Classico that won my heart. At a simple lunch, made from the estate’s produce, I shared a bottle of this wonderful wine. It was ready to drink and had every aroma and flavour I could want. Sangiovese can be as sensual and ethereal as a fine Pinot Noir, while sharing that grape’s earthiness. At the same time it is quintessentially Italian with bright acidity that reminds you of biting into a ripe tomato.

Sangiovese brings Tuscany to your home better than any tile can. Still, it is a very nice living room, Dad.

Fattoria di Fèlsina,
Via del Chianti 101
53019 - Castelnuovo Berardegna, Siena
Tel + 39 0577 355117
Fax + 39 0577 355651
Mail: info@felsina.it

Portugal? Where do I get in line?

2010-01-12T06:49:00.000-08:00

If you’ve ever been to a Portuguese wedding, you know that these are people who love to eat. After you sit through a multi-course meal which generally includes, a salad, Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale and Potato Soup), a fish course, a meat course and dessert, you get to dance the night away… but wait, it’s not done there, because at midnight, if you’ve made enough room while dancing there’s more food – a seafood buffet, sometimes with more dessert!

Yes, the Portuguese like their seafood, and who could blame them? It’s a way of life for many, where fishing has been in their blood, further back than they can trace their family tree. In the area of Nazaré, you’ll find the sand beaches studded with fisherman’s wives who are mending nets or drying fish. Stop by a seaside eatery, and you’ll be treated to some of the freshest fish you’ve ever tasted as they serve up the catch of the day from the grill.

If you travel to the small town of Obidos, along the Silver Coast, where fortified castle walls hint at a Medieval past, you’ll find the Obidos lagoon rich in a variety of mollusks, often used in a hearty stew known as Caldeirada, similar to the French Bouillabaise. What could be a more satisfying meal after a day of strolling through the cobblestone streets, admiring the ancient white washed buildings of this heritage city?

Caldeirada is one of those dishes that can be as varied as the different regions of the country. Depending on where you are in Portugual, the dish could be made of fish, a combination of fish and shellfish, or fish and chouriço (a Portuguese-style sausage). Some areas spice it up with the popular Piri-Piri sauce (a hot pepper blend), and others are more particular to saffron. No matter how the tasty stew is made, don’t forget to use that crusty bread it’s served with to sop up the juices. That’s the best part of your meal!

Now of course, you can’t go to Portugal without first arriving in Lisbon, and well, that’s where one of my favourite Portuguese treats originated, the Pasteis de Nata (custard tarts). These little golden wonders, have a pastry so flaky, they give puff pastry a run for their money, and a centre so decadent, it’s almost like creme brulée in an edible cup. In Lisbon, the history of these pastries is celebrated. A monastery Mosteiro dos Jerónimos set up shop to sell these pastries in 1837 to raise money, and the recipe was heavily guarded. The pastries from the monastery are known as Pasteis de Belem. Today, people still line up to get them hot out of the even, sprinkled with a little cinnamon sugar. Everywhere else, they are known as Pasteis de Nata. These little guys are so popular, that even here in Toronto, all Portuguese and some mainstream bakeries alike carry them. So if you want a sweet little taste of Portugal, you never have to wander too far. Although, if I was in Lisbon, I’d probably be first in line to get a fresh baked batch from the Monastery.

Lost in Sicily

2010-01-08T11:58:00.000-08:00

Only three days into a real Canadian winter and already I’m thinking about places I’d rather be. I’m lucky that I can legitimize my daydreaming by calling it planning.

When I open my computer in the morning a desktop photograph of a flock of sheep surrounding my car reminds me of the Sicilian countryside - and joy of joys, although they're causing a few minutes delay, I'm not lost! Lost is a recurring theme as soon as I get off the highway in Sicily and truth be told an hour later I was lost again.

The picture was taken on my way to spend the day with Sicilian cooking maven Anna Tasca Lanza at Casa Vecchie her country home (and cooking school) just outside of the town of Vallelunga. Casa Vecchie sits adjacent to Regaleali, the Tasca family's vineyards and winery and a day there means fabulous food and fabulous wine.

Of course I arrive late - having been lost yet again, but she graciously overlooks this and we sit down over coffee to talk about the day ahead. We'll spend the day cooking - well, Anna will cook and I'll mostly watch - focaccia, pasta with cauliflower, an orange salad, a tuna roast that she baked (the biggest piece of tuna I've ever seen outside the fishmongers) and sfince infornate (cream puffs) and a fruit salad for dessert. Each course was accompanied by Regaleali wines and the dinner was long and leisurely.

Anna's a fountain of knowledge about Sicilian food, history and culture and we spend much of the day talking about local food festivals, the foods specific to Saints Day - eaten only on that saint's day and how traditions and food change from town to town in the celebration of the most important saints. The saint most often honoured is San Guiseppe (Saint Joseph) and each March families set up little alters in their homes and busy themselves making many different dishes as an offering to San Guiseppe.

I've always loved exploring and visiting these little towns during their festivals and saints days and March in Vallelunga sounds like a good time to be escaping the winter - if I can hold out that long.

Photos by Lindan Toole. From top to bottom: Road hazards in Sicily; the beautiful surroundings of Casa Vecchie; an impressive Tuna roast; delicious orange salad.

Here, a few of Anna Tasca Lanza's recipes

Rosemary Focaccia
- 3-1/3 cups semolina flour
- 1 Tbsp sea salt
- 1 cake of compressed yeast (24 grams)
- about 2 cups of warm water
- 3/4 cup olive oil (she used 1 cup in class)
- 3/4 cup white wine (she used 1 cup in class)

Rosemary Topping
- Coarse salt
- 1 sprig of rosemary (this would be one whole bunch of the rosemary we get)
- olive oil

Mix flour & salt & make a well. Crumble yeast in well & dissolve with 1 cup of warm water.
Little by little, add olive oil & wine, s working in the flour. Mix in as much of the rest of the water as is needed and make a smooth dough that’s easy to handle.
Work the dough for about 5 minutes.
Drizzle olive oil into a bowl, put in the ball of dough and oil on all sides.
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Two hours before baking, sprinkle a 16x12” baking sheet with olive oil, stretch the dough on it – covering completely.
Put the baking sheet in a warm place under a blanket until doubled – about 2 hours.
Press your fingertips all over the dough, sprinkle with coarse salt and rosemary needles and drizzle with olive oil.
Bake in a 400F oven for 30-35 minutes.
Remove from oven and sprinkle with olive oil again.
Cut into pieces and serve hot.
Cooled and stored in a plastic bag, it will stay good for a few days. Heat it up when ready to serve.

Baked Tuna
(Flavors of Sicily - Anna Tasca Lanza)
serves 6-8 people
Serve this baked tuna with mashed potatoes. If there is any left, use it for Riso con Tonno Fresco or as a topping for pasta.

- 3 cloves garlic
- 1/2 cup (30 g) mint leaves
- 2 salted anchovies, filleted and rinsed, or 4 canned anchovy fillets
- 3 lbs (1.5 kg) fresh tuna, or 1 or 2 pieces, 2” (5cm) thick
- salt and freshly ground pepper
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1-1/2 cups (375ml) white wine
- juice of 1 lemon
- 1 sprig of rosemary

Preheat oven to 375F (190C)
Chop the garlic, mint and anchovies and mix them together. With the top of a knife, make holes in the tuna, about 1-1/4” (3cm) deep and about 2-1/2” (6 cm) apart. Fill the holes with the garlic mixture. Rub the fish with salt and pepper and the rest of the mixture, if any remains.
Put the fish in a roasting pan or baking dish and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake for 10 minutes.
Remove from the oven, pour 1 cup of the wine and the lemon juice into the pan, and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon. Put the rosemary in the pan. Put the fish back into the oven. Reduce the heat to 350F (180C) and cook until done, turning once, 20 to 30 minutes, depending on how thick the fish is. Test by inserting the top of a knife, it should to in easily. Remove from the oven. Set the fish aside on a serving dish and keep it warm while you make the sauce.

Barcelona’s Gothic Gem- the Barri Gotic

2010-01-06T13:04:00.000-08:00

Wandering the crooked, cobblestone-lined streets of Barcelona’s beautiful Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) leaves me feeling like a lucky Alice In Wonderland. As light streams through the narrow passageways, this fantasy-like neighbourhood that used to be a Roman town, beckons the weary traveler with the scent of freshly baked bread, cakes and chocolates.

But I’m in the mood for dinner, so I follow my nose to a unique restaurant concept called Origen 99.9% - a tapas bar that uses the aforementioned percentage of local Catalan ingredients in their menu. Proudly local and freshly seasonal, your dinner might include a torrada (olive oil toasted baguette-like bread) with a side of historically accurate almondroc. This is a fabulous boiled egg and garlic spread made according to a 14th century recipe. It doesn’t sound like much, but spread on that toasted-to-perfection, freshly-baked bread, I guarantee you, almondroc will become a new favourite. I wash that down with a glass of local Cabernet Sauvignon and enjoy a side of sopa de bolets- the most earthy, sensual mushroom-rich soup I’ve ever savoured.

If your waiter, like mine, is feeling generous and offers you a glass of sweet Spanish Muscatel dessert wine, graciously accept! You’ll be happy you did! Then walk over to Caelum for a heavenly dessert made by the practiced hands of Spanish nuns and monks. From centuries-old marzipan filled treats, liquor-soaked apple cake, to dried figs dipped in chocolate, you’ll find a celestial array for your sweet tooth. Don’t forget to take a look downstairs. The dark, cavernous space used to be a medieval Jewish bathhouse- but of course that didn’t stop two enamoured locals from using it as their kissing corner. What would the nuns say?

The Barri Gotic was home and inspiration to Picasso as well as local artist Joan Miró whose sculptures and artistic legacies can be appreciated throughout this sea-side city. I can see why the artists would have chosen the Barri Gotic- at times dark and mysterious, at others sunny and bright- but always welcoming and infinitely delectable.

Photos by Mary Luz Mejia. From top to bottom: A few treats from Caelum including a chocolate dipped fig, apple tart with nuts and a floral elixir; The lovely exterior of Caelum; A sculpture by Joan Miro in Barcelona.

Italy - now that's my kind of boot

2010-01-04T13:16:00.000-08:00

As January rolls in, I'm starting to think of putting the feasting of December behind me and dusting off some of my healthy eating habits.

One of the Italian New Year's Day traditions in a lentil soup. Lentils a symbol of good luck, could also be called a symbol of good health as they are a great lean source of protein and vitamins, and let's face it, even us Bon Vivants need a little balance sometime. Pulses, those little nutritional power houses, are hearty too, so they fill you up and never leave you feeling deprived. After all, even if we're being good, no one says you have to go hungry. So what better way to kick off the New Year.

The village of Castelluccio di Norcia during lentil flowering.

Generally, the Italian version of this soup very basic recipe that calls for stock, lentils, some onions, carrots and a bay leaf. Personally, I would throw in some pancetta or some italian sausage, as lentils are a natural match for pork, and need a salty kick.

The Castellucio plains are located in the Umbria region in Italy, which on the "boot" would be about mid calf, is prized for its perfect lentils, also home to both black and white truffles. A delicate flavour and tiny size, these lentils are a beautiful addition to a plate, or a soup.

This region is also prized for its pork butchery, including the 'prosciutto crudo di Norcia' as well as the 'prosciutto de montagna di Norcia', both notable types of the thinly sliced salt pork that is Italy's answer to ham. Umbria is also home to some of the cheeses that we would most easily recognize here in Canada-- Pecorino, Ricotta, Mozzarella and Mascarpone are all from this region. I can just imagine visiting a cheesemonger where fresh Mozarella (or Fior de Latte) is being pulled right before my eyes, just moments before I'm able to sink my teeth into the soft taste of fresh milk.

Each basic ingredients, they highlight the strong point of Umbrian cuisine-- simplicity. Seasonal home cooking reign supreme in the region, and can Umbrian cooks help it if truffles happen to be local ingredients? They grate them on pasta or serve them with chicken liver and anchovies. A small luxury for us, is tasty local fare for them. I think this year, I will make a resolution to eat locally and embrace the local fare, even if it does mean I get on a plane once in a while to find a new taste adventure. It'll be worth every penny.

Revéillon- the Ultimate New Year’s Revel in Brazil

2009-12-31T06:59:00.000-08:00

Few folks can party like South Americans. My mom would tell me stories of how millions of people dress up in white for New Years Eve in countries like Cuba and Brazil and head to the ocean for a sumptuous dinner. I often think of that experience- millions of revelers dressed in white on a moonlight- kissed beach, drinking tropical cocktails made of citrus juice and Cachaça (a sugar cane spirit), eating freshly grilled seafood and dancing. Now that’s how I’d like to spend a shiver-free New Year’s eve for a change!

And that’s exactly what the lucky masses and tourists do every year in Brazil. Second only to the country’s famous “Carnival,” there’s nothing quite like a Brazilian Revéillon to close out the old and ring in the new. While French in name only, the yearly Ano Novo parties in Brazil are particularly hot in beaches throughout Rio. The Zona Sul beaches, which include Copacabana, Flamengo, Ipanema (named after that girl), and Barra de Tijuca are where the real party starts.

White- the colour of good luck, peace, purity and the Goddess of the Sea- Yemanjá in the Candomblé religion- is the colour of choice for not only for clothing but the flowers, rice and trinkets offered to her that night. Candles are lit on the beach while revelers get ready to make their offerings. Once midnight strikes, the gifts are launched into the sea on model boats. If they’re swept out by the tides, good luck will ensue in the coming year. If they’re brought back to the shore, Yemanjá wishes you better luck next time. She’s a tough task master by all accounts.

Either way, party-goers have a well-choreographed, multi-hued fireworks display to light up the tropical night, beer stalls to hit and warm waters to go swimming in to wash away the year’s excesses. On New Year’s Day, to encourage an auspicious start to the new year, soups redolent with lentils, which symbolize wealth, are eaten by all to entice wallets more than waistlines to fatten up. I love lentil soup and I’ll happily wear white this New Years! Maybe if you could put in a good word to Yemanjá for me, I’ll soon see you in Rio!

Tamales

2009-12-29T10:53:00.000-08:00

I used to spend Christmas holidays in Costa Rica and I have great memories of being invited to friends’ homes to share tamales on Christmas eve. Tamales are rarely eaten throughout the rest of the year, but are a Christmas eve tradition and every year my friend Jose Maria’s mother (and sister and aunts and friends) would get together and make around 250 of them and then trade with other friends and relatives who had made them with different kinds of fillings. It’s sort of like a cookie exchange - but with tamales.

I got to help on a couple of occasions and it was really a fun and festive time – all the more fun and festive because I didn’t have to make the corn dough that JM’s mother prepared from scratch. By the time I arrived it was a matter of assembling the tamales – chopping and mincing ingredients for the filling, cutting the plantain leaves and string to wrap the tamales, then wrapping them and boiling them. With a little music, a little wine, lots of talking.

One year when we didn’t get to CR, I made them for friends here and this year I decided to try them again. They aren’t exactly Costa Rican tamales because by the time I got around to buying my ingredients there weren’t any plantain leaves left and I bought corn husks instead. Corn husks are used for Mexican tamales and are steamed rather than boiled.

I used Maseca instant corn masa flour, which is very easy to make following directions on the package and I made two fillings - chicken and picadillo (ground beef). I lined each corn husk with the corn flour dough, then added a spoon of filling and wrapped and tied each tamale, then filled my steamers - a double boiler, a Oster steamer and a Chinese bamboo steamer.

I didn’t make 250 of them – because I don’t have anyone to trade with and I didn’t have friends over to share the tasks, but I will follow the tradition of having friends over on Christmas eve to share them.

Picadillo
1 Tbsp veg oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1-1/2 lbs minced beef
2 Tbsp tomato puree
1 green chili, seeded and finely chopped
14 oz can chopped tomatoes
½ tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp chopped oregano
2 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 large potato, peeled and cut into small cubes

1) heat the oi8l in large pan and add the onions and garlic. Cook until the onions are soft, about 10 minutes.
2) Add minced beef in batches and cook, stirring constantly with a fork to break up any lumps.
3) Stir in tomato puree, chili, chopped tomatoes, cumin, oregano and half the parsley. Season to taste, bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook, covered for 20 minutes.
4) Add potato and cook, uncovered for another 20 minutes or until the potato is tender. Mix in remaining parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.
5) Serve hot or use to fill empanadas, tamales, pies, etc.

Une tradition purement québécoise

2009-12-24T06:00:00.001-08:00

This post is also available in English.

Depuis mon plus jeune âge, j’ai toujours adoré le temps des fêtes et plus particulièrement le réveillon de Noël. Chaque année, ma grand-mère recevait toute la famille et bien que sa maison fut petite et la famille de plus en plus grande, elle insistait pour nous y accueillir.

Cousins et cousines à la petite table, adultes à la grande table, tous étaient réunis autour des plats que ma grand-mère avait préparés avec tout son amour. Plusieurs choses ont changé au fil des ans, la famille a grandi, les enfants ont vieilli et une nouvelle génération d’enfants a vu le jour, mais le choix des plats servis est toujours resté le même et c’est parfait comme ça. Bien que ma grand-mère nous aie quitté l’année dernière, la tradition continue et ce sont mes tantes qui ont pris la relève. Le choix de hors d’œuvres varie d’année en année mais le repas principal se compose encore des traditionnels ragoût de boulettes, tourtière, patates pilées, dinde farcie, ragoût de pattes de cochon et atacas. Chaque année, quelques membres de la famille tentent de voler la vedette avec des petites douceurs qu’ils ont concoctées pour l’occasion, mais la légendaire bûche de Noël de tante Johanne remporte toujours la palme. La tarte au sucre de tante Thérèse, les carrés d’amour et les carrés aux dattes de ma mère suivent tout de même de près.

Cette année, rien ne me fera plus chaud au cœur que d’emmener mes enfants dans ma famille et de les voir vivre les joies du temps des fêtes avec autant de fébrilité que moi à leur âge.

A traditional Christmas Eve in Quebec

2009-12-24T06:00:00.000-08:00

Cet article est aussi disponible en français.

For as long as I can remember, I’ve always loved the holidays, especially Christmas Eve. Every year, my grand-mother would welcome the whole family and although her house was small and the family growing constantly, she would insist on inviting everyone.

With the kids at the small table and the adults at the large table, everyone would gather around the yummy dishes that she had prepared with love. Much has changed throughout the years, the family got bigger, the kids have grown up and now a new generation of kids has arrived, but the selection of dishes has remained the same, and it’s perfect this way. Although my grand-mother passed away last year, the family tradition carries on with my aunts taking over for her. The selection of appetizers varies from year to year but the main course always consists of the same traditional dishes: ragoût de boulettes, tourtière (potpie), mashed potatoes, turkey with stuffing, ragoût de pattes de cochon and cranberry. Each year, some members of the family try to steal the show with a special desert that they prepared for the occasion, but my aunt Johanne’s legendary bûche de Noël (Yule log) is the grand winner, closely followed by aunt Thérèse’s sugar pie and my mother’s date squares and carrés d’amour.

This year, nothing will make me happier then bringing my kids over to the family gathering and witnessing them enjoy the holidays with as much excitement as I did when I was their age.

Christmas Down Under

2009-12-23T06:45:00.000-08:00

I went searching for some Christmas Spirit this year, but not surprisingly, it was home that brought it to me.

I grew up in Adelaide in South Australia. Christmas in Australia is a different. To begin with, we don’t celebrate either Thanksgiving or Halloween and that means the lead up to Christmas starts somewhere around Easter. We bundle all our children’s hopes for unnecessary candy (lollies in the local vernacular) and all our adult gorging fantasies into the same day as our gifts. And our department stores put up trees in appreciation!

Now Australia has Christmas at the height of summer, but no one ever told my mother. Like many families we had roast turkey and all the trimmings every year. This is despite the fact that Christmas lunch was served in temperatures approaching 40 degrees (that’s outside the oven) and that we had no air conditioning. Yep. We perspired. So be warned and pick a well air-conditioned hotel if you are Down Under for the big day....or just go to the beach.

The heat explains an Australian phenomenon. It’s the wine known locally as ‘black bubbles’ or Sparkling Shiraz. Australian winemakers make red wines in the sparkling. Red sparkling wine may seem anathema to the rest of the world, but when you are faced with roast turkey on the hottest day of the year, you will embrace cold bubbly reds too. To be honest, some Sparkling Shiraz wines (they come in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot forms too) can be excellent and surprisingly elegant. I like them and recommend that when down there you try them for a summer’s lunch.

Come to think of it, if I have one criticism of my childhood Christmases, then this was it: there was simply not enough alcohol. Please make sure that you adequately stock your cellar for the big day. I believe in two strategies for surviving Christmas; drink something you like and don’t say anything unless you think everyone else will find it funny.

Another celebration we share with Canada is Boxing Day. This is a vital piece of the puzzle that the USA misses out on. It has all the family togetherness of Christmas, all the food (leftovers) and all the enjoying of presents, without any of the stress. You spend no time worrying about whether her gift is just right or whether you spent more on him last year. You just relax with the people you love.

And you can enjoy all that leftover wine I made you buy.

Every Country has its Cookie

2009-12-22T11:57:00.000-08:00

If any childhood memory of Christmas, beside that of finding a mountain of presents under the tree, sticks in my head it’s baking cookies with my mom. Every year, we would roll out sugar cookie dough and cut out shapes with festive cookie cutters before popping them in the oven. When we were done, sprinkles and icing awaited to decorate the cookies that we were carefully crafting. After all, they were for our most important guest. Paired with a glass of milk, the cookies sat out Christmas Eve in anticipation of Santa’s arrival.

Now as an adult, I like to partake in the various cookie traditions from around the world as the festive season happens upon us.

One of my favourite Italian cookies that are usually available at speciality stores this time of year are amaretti cookies. They come in two varieties, hard and soft. But believe me, the soft ones are the way to go. They melt in your mouth as they give way to a bitter almond essence. Serve these treats with a cup of strong espresso after dinner. The ones I buy come wrapped in colourful paper and would make a great addition to any stocking.

Austria has given the world Linzer cookies. Another sandwich cookie made with two sugar cookies and seedless jam, it’s a popular (and colourful) choice for the season. They look pretty on any cookie platter and even kids enjoy this simple choice.

One of the most difficult festive treats to make properly are the French macarons. A meringue based sandwich cookie usually filled with a ganache, these little confections come in a rainbow of colours and flavours. They’re a popular gift at Christmas time (in case you hadn’t bought me anything yet).

In South America, Alfajores, a shortbread like sandwich cookie filled with the south American pastry staple, dulce de leche, a caramelized condensed milk. The sweet butterscotch-type filling is a great foil against the rich crumbly cookie.

Even Scotland, the country whose most notable contribution to the culinary world is haggis, the blood sausage made of sheep’s stomach, has one of the most-loved cookies for this time of year—shortbread. Buttery and crumbly, when made properly, shortbread has just a touch of sweetness, but is pure decadence as it melts on your tongue. The world’s most famous shortbread maker Walkers is found in Northern Scotland. What better way to ring in the New Year than some shortbread and some Scottish malt whisky?

And lets not forget our own very Canadian, and very popular treat—Nanaimo bars. A nod to British Columbia and the upcoming 2010 Olympics, these chocolate treats and buttery filling have become a household staple during the holidays, even if you don’t make your own.
The great thing about culinary customs is that they are completely portable and we can share them wherever we are, even if our hearts are somewhere else this time of year.

Christmas Eve: Memories of Abbruzzo in Toronto

2009-12-21T10:25:00.000-08:00

Christmas is filled with tradition, and for every family this tradition is translated uniquely through the various forms of worship, activity and food. Perhaps the most unifying element of the holiday –and the one that everyone relates to – is gathering around the table and sharing a meal with your friends and loved ones. Being from an Italian background, I can confidently say that, after family, food is pretty much the most important thing regardless of event or circumstance. I have to hand it to my mother and her sisters (natch) – who every year would invite all their siblings, in-laws and their kids over for Vigilia, or Christmas Eve. I remember all of us crammed into my oldest aunt’s basement, mismatched tables and chairs pulled together to accommodate the two dozen or so people. This was otherwise known as the ‘adult table’. The kids always sat (happily) in the next room where we could talk about fun stuff and goof off as we grew more hyper about unwrapping gifts.
The dishes were rustic; replications of the simple yet hearty meals from my mother’s own childhood in Abbruzzo. On la Vigilia, the menu consisted of only fish-based dishes: we started off with cappelini d’angelo con salsa di acciuga (angel hair pasta in a tomato and anchovy sauce), followed by a selection of verza (cabbage) sautéed in garlic and anchovy, faggioli (beans), acciuga fritta con pepperoni (fried anchovies with dried peppers) and baccalà, salt cod prepared in a saucy broth. Side dishes would include polenta, salad and maybe roasted peppers. I always called it quits after the pasta because my young palate deemed the flavours of the other dishes gross, though I have since grown to enjoy them (except for the baccalà – that’s just never going to happen).

Dessert consisted of a selection of donut-like fritters called crispelle, pizzelle (thin waffles) and caggionetti, deep fried pouches that resemble ravioli but are filled a mixture of ground almond, chestnut and chocolate.
As a self-confessed foodie I love all types of cuisine. Over the past several years, I have also had the pleasure of incorporating my boyfriend’s Czech/Polish heritage into the holiday meals. I’m also looking forward to his family’s Christmas dinner of all the things he enjoyed eating since his own childhood: pickerel, bean soup and kapusniak (Polish sauerkraut soup), coleslaw and two types of bobálky , a traditional ‘bread’ served in either a fried sauerkraut or ground poppy seed mixture.

Today, such large gatherings have become too onerous for my mother and aunts to undertake and the younger generations have maintained the tradition only within their immediate families. Within mine, I am next in line to take it over. And I am ready, fork and knife in hand.

Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights

2009-12-18T08:14:00.000-08:00

Hanukkah commemorates the victory of the Maccabbees in their 164BCE battle against the Syrian Hellenists and recapturing Jerusalem. When they returned to Jerusalem they found the Temple burned and a single oil lamp containing enough oil for one day. They lit it and miraculously it burned for eight days.

Today the miracle of the oil is symbolized by the lighting of candles in a Hanukkah menorah (menorah is Hebrew for lamp). There are nine places in the menorah – one for each night, plus the shamash (the candle used to light the others) One candle is lit on the first night, two the second and so on for eight days.

In the kitchen, the miracle of the oil is symbolized with foods cooked in oils. Potato latkes (pancakes) are probably the most well know of these foods, but latkes are really a tradition of the Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe. Jews in other parts of the world have other traditional foods - Italian Jews eat chicken pieces dipped in batter and deep fried, in Alsace they eat goose, and Iraqi Jews eat kba dumplings – a potato dough stuffed with chicken, meat and raisins and cooked in oil. In Morocco it’s sfenj – a deep fried donuty thing (a fabulous donuty thing by the way) that’s a breakfast and snack food throughout the year. A similar thing is called loukoumades in Greece and lokma in Turkey. In Israel – and now pretty much everywhere - sufganiot (jam filled donuts) are eaten at Hanukkah.

Even though I don’t make a lot of Ashkenazi foods, I always latkes on the first night of Hanukkah and, because sour cream is my topping of choice, I serve them with smoked fish and a large salad. I can’t usually bring myself to eat those 600+ calorie sufganiot but if I do break down, I’ll buy them at Harbord Bakery in Toronto rather than make them.

This year the last night of Hanukkah will be on Friday (the beginning of Shabbat) and at my house that often means chicken. This year I’ll follow the Italian tradition of fried chicken cutlets. And for dessert – I don’t know, maybe I’ll run over to Harbord Bakery for one sufganiah and cut it into 6 parts!

Tradition is good on Christmas

2009-12-17T06:59:00.000-08:00

Christmas was always something special when I was little. Back then I mostly cared about the gifts of course. The anticipation was huge and so was the appreciation. Back then in Poland we did not have access to Western goods but each year my uncle, who lived in England, would send us a package with all the goodies. My favorites were Mars, Snickers and Terry’s Chocolate Orange -yes, especially that one!

As I grew older I started paying more attention to the food my mom was cooking for this special day. In Poland, the most important part of Christmas is actually Christmas Eve. Traditionally, people would fast all day until the first star appeared on the night sky and then they would sit down for a one-of-a-kind dinner. The table was beautifully decorated and the centerpiece was a plate with wafers we would bring from church to share at the beginning of the meal to wish each person health, wealth and prosperity. The plate was situated on hay to symbolize Baby Jesus in the manger.

Some of the foods prepared for Christmas Eve would only be cooked for that one day. Usually it would take several days to prepare everything. There had to be 12 dishes for the 12 apostles and they would all be meat-less. This rule was in the meantime abandoned by the church that now allows meat dishes on Christmas Eve, but people still keep the tradition alive.

The table would be filled with food. There was carp (fried and in aspic); herring in oil; pierogi with cabbage and mushrooms as well as with potato and cheese; borsch with mushroom tortellini (we call them ears because of their shape); Christmas Eve Cabbage (my favorite no-meat version of bigos: sauerkraut with mushrooms, onions, prunes and lots of black pepper); dark rye bread and dried fruit compote to drink. For desert we would have things like kutia (wheat and poppy-seed with honey, raisins, hazelnuts, almonds, dates and figs) and poppy-seed cake. These were the typical dishes at my house, but there are many, many more.

And after dinner came gift time. When we were little our parents would send us to wash our hands after dinner and when we came back the gifts had magically appeared under the tree. And the fun began…

Navidad in Colombia

2009-12-15T10:01:00.000-08:00

I remember as a little girl, the absolute thrill I felt during Christmas; and it wasn’t just about the presents and the treats. In my birth country, Colombia, we didn’t get presents from Santa Claus (or Papa Noel). Nope, it was all about sharing in the birthday of Baby Jesus (or El Niño Jesus). When I was a little girl, I used to think him the MOST generous of all birthday boys because it was he who left presents under the tree for me if I had been half way decent throughout the year (luckily, he was a forgiving sort).

Our faith and the celebratory mood of Christmas in Colombia always go hand in hand. Navidad- or Christmas in Spanish, really starts on December 7th. At dusk, the lighting of “las velitas” or the candles happens all over the country. Children and adults light candles and lanterns to make tunnels of soft, white light that beautifully illuminate the most humble of neighbourhoods, to the most spectacular streets and churches. This is done to celebrate the day of “La Virgen de la Immaculada Concepción”- or the day of the Virgin of the Immaculate conception- on December 8th. And since this is Colombia, there’s always a fiesta for every occasion, including music, buñuelos (savoury cheese fritters), cornmeal empanadas stuffed with meat and potatoes and the occasional firework display.

By December 16th, the Novenas (or daily prayers) begin for nine days until Christmas Eve, which is reserved for midnight mass followed by a feast at home. Meant to remind Colombians about the true meaning of Christmas, the Novenas are also a good excuse to gather family, sing villancicos (Spanish Christmas carols), and eat Christmas foods including my favourite- natilla (a set custard made with cinnamon that tastes like firm dulce de leche), served with a side of buñuelos, hot chocolate for the kids and a shot of aguardiente (literally “firewater”) - an anise-flavoured spirit made from sugar cane, for the adults. Roasted pig is always on the menu this time of year as are tamales, plantain-leaf steamed cornmeal masa packets wrapped around mildly chicken or pork and veggies.

But my favourite tradition has to do with engaging children to think about how lucky they are. I remember buying gifts, wrapping them and then going to deliver them to those less fortunate than myself- and I did this in Canada with my Colombian parents. If I ever have children, this would be one of the first things I’d like to do for Christmas. The expression on those kids’ faces has never left me. For at least one day a year, we can all be as generous as the birthday boy himself!

La Jamaïque : du jerk à la java

2009-12-08T07:33:00.000-08:00

This post is also available in English.

Anita Draycott s’immisce dans les cuisines de la Jamaïque et constate qu’elle est capable de supporter le feu de la cuisine jerk.

« Les Blancs peuvent oser le jerk », insiste le chef Walter Staib, un expert de la cuisine jamaïcaine et l’ambassadeur culinaire des Sandals Resorts.

Ce chef d’origine allemande a amorcé sa carrière en Europe avant de se familiariser aux huttes où l’on sert des aliments épicés et fumés à la jamaïcaine, des soupers communautaires servis dans des églises et des comptoirs de coins de rue que l’on trouve partout sur cette île verdoyante.
Il arpente les marchés à la recherche de produits frais, explore les vergers de fruits et les jardins d’épices et visite les plantations de café et les distilleries de rhum depuis plus de 30 ans. Premier chef à être inscrit au temple de la renommée de la gastronomie des Antilles, il a longtemps étudié les origines de la cuisine jamaïcaine à l’Université de Kingston en Jamaïque.

Lors d’une récente visite, Staib accompagnait notre petit groupe de gourmets pour une tournée des hauts lieux culinaires de l’île. À notre premier arrêt, Billy veillait sur une dizaine de marmites qui mijotaient sur un feu de bois au Billy’s Roadside Canteen à Middle Quarters sur la côte sud. Les Jamaïcains affectionnent ce restaurant de style « service au volant » et vont en voiture commander leur repas du midi. Staib nous informe que le prix du repas dépend de ce que porte le client comme vêtements et de la voiture qu’il conduit. Pour une touriste comme moi, le commis me demanderait probablement 5 $ pour un plat de riz aux pois, les fameuses crevettes au poivre de Billy et une louche de porridge aux arachides vraiment délicieux. Billy cuisine les recettes traditionnelles qui lui ont été transmises par sa grand-mère.

Passant devant de nombreux étals de fruits et de très rustiques comptoirs de rhum, Staib en profita pour nous parler
de l’héritage culinaire de la Jamaïque.

Les exploitants de plantations, aussi bien anglais qu’espagnols, cultivaient l’arbre à pain, l’igname et le cassave qui
constituaient une nourriture économique à servir aux esclaves. Le mets national de la Jamaïque, le poisson salé et le ackee, a probablement été introduit dans la culture culinaire par les esclaves africains qui auraient apporté des semences de fruits de l’arbre d’ackee. Le fruit ressemble au litchi et a la texture de l’oeuf brouillé. Dans les années 1700, à l’époque où le réfrigérateur n’existait pas, le poisson était conservé dans le sel. Les marins de Terre-Neuve échangeaient alors leur morue salée contre du rhum jamaïcain.

Outre la muscade, le piment de la Jamaïque, le gingembre et le macis, les Jamaïcains produisent dix sortes de piments. Celui qu’on vénère le plus est le piment antillais Scotch bonnet utilisé dans la préparation des viandes « à la jerk ». C’est plus qu’une épice, car le piment antillais sert aussi d’agent de conservation. La recette originale de « jerk » demande de faire macérer la viande, souvent du porc ou du poulet, ou le poisson, dans un enrobage de piment, de thym, d’oignon, d’échalotes, d’ail et de piment de la Jamaïque qu’on fera ensuite lentement griller sur un feu de tiges d’arbustes de piments. Le mot « jerk » provient probablement du mot charqui qui signifie viande séchée en langue quéchua.

Au terme de notre leçon d’histoire culinaire, nous arrivons à Little Ochie, un restaurant de plage situé à Alligator Pond. Sur un tableau noir apparaît la liste des poissons frais du jour. Il suffit de passer sa commande et d’aller se désaltérer d’une bonne bière froide sur la plage en attendant d’être servis. Nous avions opté pour le homard servi avec un beurre au citron et à l’ail, un plat de crabe et de conque à la « jerk », accompagnés de la version calorique des beignets de maïs frits, une spécialité toute jamaïcaine.

Le lendemain, nous nous sommes rendus à Port Antonio sur la côte nord pour une excursion en radeau sur le Rio Grande. Mlle Betty, une dame d’un âge incertain, tient une cantine sur la rive. Le menu change chaque jour. On peut y déguster une soupe aux poivrons, un cari de chèvre, une fricassée de poulet ou un mijoté de callaloo. Gardez-vous un peu de place pour ses fameux biscuits au coco et au gingembre. Le chef Staib doit à Mlle Betty de lui avoir appris comment apprêter les aliments de la vraie cuisine jamaïcaine.

Un matin, Staib organisa une dégustation de café chez Firefly, un domaine situé au sommet d’une falaise à Port Maria où résida l’écrivain Noël Coward. Il y reçut nombre de têtes couronnées et de vedettes du cinéma au cours de sa célèbre carrière et c’est là qu’il repose en paix depuis 1973. En 1728, Sir Nicholas Lawes, ancien gouverneur de la Jamaïque, introduisit la culture du café sur l’île. Aujourd’hui, le café des Blue Mountains est considéré comme le meilleur et parmi les plus chers au monde. Vous pouvez déguster ce café avec bonne conscience, car ceux qui le produisent sont bien payés et les sols sont désormais soumis à des pratiques écoresponsables.

Au terme de ce voyage, j’étais devenu une véritable adepte du « jerk » et définitivement accro des saveurs épicées de la cuisine jamaïcaine. Si cette cuisine vous séduit autant que moi, vous pouvez rapporter une variété de sauces « jerk » et « barbecue » ainsi que du café Blue Mountains. À la maison, remettez-vous dans l’ambiance jamaïcaine. Invitez vos amis, démarrez votre barbecue et faites jouer la musique de Bob Marley.

Jamaica: from Jerk to Java

2009-12-07T08:45:00.000-08:00

Cet article est aussi publié en français.

Anita Draycott steps into the kitchens of Jamaica and finds that she can stand the heat

“White men can jerk,” insists chef Walter Staib, a self-confessed expert on Jamaican food and the culinary ambassador to Sandals Resorts.

Indeed, the German-born chef, who began his career in Europe, has been jerkin’ and jammin’ elbow-to-elbow with local Jamaican cooks at jerk huts, church suppers and food stalls over most corners of this lush West Indian island, as well as foraging in the local markets, fruit and spice orchards, and rum and coffee plantations, for more than 30 years. The first inductee into the Caribbean Culinary Hall of Fame, Staib has extensively researched the roots of Jamaican cuisine at the University of the West Indies in Kingston.

On a recent visit, Staib led our small group of ‘foodies’ on a culinary island romp. The heat was on at our first stop, Billy’s Roadside Canteen in Middle Quarters on the south coast. Billy was tending about 10 Dutch ovens as they simmered over a pimento wood fire. At this Jamaican version of a drive-through, locals pull over, roll down their windows and order lunch.

According to Staib, the cost depends on how you’re dressed and what kind of car you’re driving. For tourists like me that translates into about $5 for a dish of rice and peas, Billy’s famous pepper shrimp and a scoop of surprisingly tasty peanut porridge. These traditional island recipes have been passed down, literally by word of mouth, from Billy’s grandmother.

As we rattled past several fruit stands and even more rustic rum shacks, Staib chatted about Jamaica’s culinary heritage. Both English and Spanish plantation managers planted starchy crops, such as breadfruit, yams and cassava, that were cheap fodder for the slaves. Jamaica’s national dish, ackee and saltfish, probably began when a slave brought an ackee seed from his native Africa and either dropped or planted it. The fruit is related to the lychee and has the texture of scrambled egg. Back in the 1700s Newfoundland sailors traded dried salt cod to Jamaicans for rum. Salting the fish was an ideal way to preserve it in the days before refrigerators.

In addition to nutmeg, allspice, ginger and mace, 10 species of peppers grow here, the most important being the fiery Scotch bonnet used in jerk. More than a spice, Scotch bonnet is also a preservative. The original jerk recipe called for marinating the meat, chicken or fish in a rub of Scotch bonnet, thyme, onion, scallions, garlic and allspice, then cooking it slowly over the ashes from a pimento wood fire. The word ‘jerk’ probably originates from charqui, which means ‘dried meat’ in Quechuan.

By the time our culinary history lesson was over we had reached Little Ochie on the beach in Alligator Pond. A blackboard menu lists the catches of the day. Order what you want and then chill out on the beach with a cool drink until it’s served. We feasted on lobster with lemon garlic butter, jerked crab and conch, as well as festival, Jamaica’s caloric version of cornmeal fritters.

The next day we drove to Port Antonio on the north coast for a river rafting adventure on the Rio Grande. Miss Betty, a lady of indeterminate age, operates a riverside canteen. Depending on the day, you might sample her famous pepper pot soup, goat curry, chicken fricassee and callaloo stew. Be sure to save room for the coconut-ginger cookies. Chef Staib credits Miss Betty, with teaching him all he knows about real down-home Jamaican food. One morning Staib organized a coffee tasting at Firefly, the cliff-hanging estate in Port Maria, where playwright Noël Coward lived, entertained royalty and movie stars and was buried in 1973. In 1728 Sir Nicholas Lawes, former governor of Jamaica, introduced the first coffee plants to the island. Now some of the world’s best and priciest java grows in the highlands of the Blue Mountains. You can drink the mellow brew with a clear conscience, as the farmers are paid top dollar and the crops are rotated to protect the soil.

By now I was a true jerk junky, hooked on the bold, spicy flavours of Jamaican cuisine. Converts like me can take home a line of Lifestyle products, including several jerk and barbecue sauces and Blue Mountain coffee. So now you can crank up your Bob Marley tunes, fire up your grill and enjoy a Jamaican reggae party in your own backyard.

What's a 14 course meal without an appetite, and a camera?

2009-11-27T09:56:00.000-08:00

When I was invited to experience a 14-course dinner, my first thought was YES! But after I accepted, I couldn't help but wonder - could I really eat 14 different dishes? Not one to shy away from a challenge, I filed that thought way in the back of my head. However on the day of the dinner, it found it's way to the front again, and I couldn't help to try and save my appetite by only eating little bits here and there.

Click on the image to see all 14 courses.

Any sacrifices I made that day were well worthwhile, but thankfully, all of the food was perfectly portioned so that a normal human being could make room for all of it. The restaurant where I dined, Le Chique at the Azul Sensatori Hotel in Riviera Maya, Mexico, explains the concept like this:

"Our theory of small portions, just as the diversity of products and techniques is what makes a 14 courses menu into a real culinary experience in the Mayan Riviera.

Foams, bubbles, spheres, fake caviar, balloons, inverse Ravioli, cooking with Liquid Nitrogen…these are some of the forefront culinary techniques used at Le Chique through our 14 unique creations."

Intrigued? Then come along with me, bite by bite, as I show you what my taste buds experienced and my camera captured. Click here to start.

My weakness for junk food knows no borders

2009-11-25T08:32:00.000-08:00

Every foodie has a guilty pleasure. Mine is junk food. When I’m at home, I do a good job of eating it sparingly, but when I travel, curiosity gets the best of me, and I end up in convenience stores checking out what the locals snack on when they get the munchies.

And that’s how I found myself at Wal-Mart in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. Well, no, that’s a lie. I was told that it was the place to go to find good deals on a variety of tequilas, but while I was there, I was determined to find Mexican junk food.

So after picking out a $15 bottle of tequila (sadly, the $2 bottles were all sold out) and laughing at the strategically placed clip of Advil in the tequila aisle (yes, an entire aisle), I went on a junk food shopping spree.

The junk food at a Mexican Wal-Mart is not all that different from what you find in a Canadian Wal-Mart, and I won’t pretend that it’s a genuine cultural experience, but it was fun nonetheless. We have Tostitos in Canada. But do we have Flamin’ Hot Tostitos? And even if we do, surely, Flamin’ Hot must mean something different in Mexico than it does at home. And although I wouldn’t get to try it out until I got home, I couldn’t resist buying a variety of flavoured microwave popcorn packages. Even plain old popcorn sounds like an exotic treat; Mantequilla just means butter in Spanish, but it really does make it seem a lot more interesting.

Back at the hotel room, I begin indulging in my treats. Turns out the Flamin’ Hot Tostitos are appropriately named and tasty, and I’m glad to have a bottle of water nearby. The gum is really just Bubblelicious, but when you rename it Bubbaloo, it lends a whole new dimension of fun to the pink chewing gum. And my Bubu Lubu treat, which is really like a Viva Puff cookie with the marshmallow center and chocolate coating, brings a smile to my face when I look at the cute cartoon man on the packaging.

So tonight, in the comfort of my living room and thanks to the convenience of my microwave, I’ll be getting a taste of Mexico in the form of popcorn. Guilty pleasure? Yes. A little embarrassing for a food blog writer? Kind of. Tasty? You bet!

Good Morning, Gourmet

2009-11-20T07:00:00.000-08:00

I did a really typical Canadian thing earlier this month – I went on an all-inclusive vacation to Mexico. Normally, us Canucks tend to head south for the sun, not the food, but this trip was a most pleasant exception to that rule.

Known as a “Gourmet Inclusive” resort, the El Dorado Casitas Royale by Karisma Hotels & Resorts where I stayed boasts decadent cuisine and all the inclusions that any foodie could dream of. Having drooled over the brochure for weeks in anticipation before my trip, I’m very happy to say that they didn’t disappoint!

Cheese-lover's dream come true: the spread I found in my room every afternoon.

After waiting in line for hours in various airports on the day of my arrival, it was almost surreal to step into the hotel's gorgeous lobby, be handed a glass of champagne and have my bags taken off my hands - now that’s what I call making a very tired, travelling girl feel special! And imagine how excited this Frenchie was to find an elaborate cheese plate waiting in the room. But it didn’t stop there. About an hour before dinner, a plate of chocolate covered strawberries, mini-cheesecakes, truffles and other sweet treats were delivered to my room. And then there was the room service menu.

If you're going to snack before dinner, snack well!

Pooped from my day of travel, I decided to skip the resto and order room service, which is included as part of the Gourmet Inclusive concept. I was intrigued when 20 minutes later, a delicious dinner arrived to my room. It was literally food for thought; my brain really couldn’t come up with a pressing reason to get out of bed for breakfast the next day when I could get fabulous food delivered to me. And so, the next morning, I woke up to a knock on the door, a smiling waiter, and a spread of French toast, waffles, eggs, bacon, coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice… Ok, so maybe I overdid it a little.

In-room breakfast for two. Or heaven. Haven't quite decided yet.

The next morning, (and the one after that, and after that one), started off in a similar way, only my request was more reasonable: coffee, fresh fruit and French toast, which I had quickly deemed to be my favourite. But how could I even try to resist it; a mixture of cream cheese and sliced almonds sandwiched between two slices of lightly battered bread, toasted to perfection and of course, syrup!

One morning though, I made it a special point not to indulge in room service and to save my appetite for the resort’s Kampai restaurant, where I was meeting Jeroen Hanlo, Karisma's Vice President Food & Beverage Operations for a Q&A. When I get there, he asks if he can make a recommendation – Chilaquiles. They were delish, and traditional, which is nice to see at an all-inclusive resort, where most serve up American type breakfasts that we can easily find in our own fridges.

I learn some interesting stuff from Jeroen – although his staff make it look effortless, a lot goes into preparing the food that they deem deserving of the Gourmet Inclusive label. They cook with only the freshest ingredients and even have an herb garden on the resort. And their staff must all have a passion for food. Their chefs all have impressive culinary backgrounds, and each member of the wait staff undergoes several days of in-class and in-restaurant training to ensure they provide impeccable service. And is it all worthwhile? Judging by my waiter Leo’s attentive service, his genuine smile and my plated of polished off Chilaquiles, I would say so.